Search results for query: *

I already have a slip yoke but I get your point. I had to wait 6+ months for Legendary door panels. When I order wheels I expect them to be 6 months out at least.

CUSTOM BUILT MOPAR DRIVE SHAFT 7290 OR 7260 SERIES 4 DODGE, CHRYSLER & PLYMOUTH | eBay

I had another look at the shaft I was going to have shortened. It has a good amount of pitting in it. I'm thinking it might be better to just have another shaft made. The same shop that quoted me the $200 for the shortening just priced me out a new custom length shaft. Their price was right...

Some online outfits list a Mopar shaft at $270 plus shipping so you are right around the same cost of shortening a stock shaft. No taper though.

Are there clearance issues with a non tapered shaft? It seems like the pinion snubber would be the closest obstruction.

I've had driveshafts shortened before but it's been 20 years. IIRC it was around $100 back then. I just got a quote from a local powertrain shop and they want $200 plus joints.(non greasable Spicer) That's new driveshaft territory. If I go new, is the tapered end a requirement for...

Just shoved the rear in the car this afternoon. I have 1/4" clearance with the car sitting on the springs. Not sure if it will get tighter when the suspension compresses over bumps or not.

So, what is an exceptable rear end to gas tank clearance? I bought MP oval track leaf springs which have a 20.5" front segment.(stock front segment is 20") This pushed the rear back 1/2" I'm now extremely close to hitting the tank. I think I'm going to need to take a block of wood and...

I just purchased a reusable 904/A500/42rh/42re gasket from the dealer this weekend. Supposed to be the bee's knees.

I just used a plug that came with my Edelbrock intake manifold.

Do they make one for a 904?

If you are dropping the pan just for a gasket change and if the fluid doesn't have many miles on it, why replace it with new. Drain it into a clean pan and put it back in.

The factory paint was VERY cheap gloss black. It didn't have the shine we are used to seeing from gloss today. I'd go with semi-gloss. Lots of other suspension components were bare metal. UCAs and LCAs are bare metal. LCAs were dipped in cosmoline. Other bare metal parts came straight from...

Perfect thanks!

Thats how my 68 cable routes. That diagram shows a clip on the axle housing for the right side cable. I just need a measurement where that clip is located. Thanks

The hydraulic line clips are on the back side of the axle. Look at my picture. This clip is on the front side of the axle tube. It's a place for the E-brake cable to mount. There is also another E-brake cable clip/mount above the axle on the floor pan. If I don't need the clip on the axle...

So, my 68 Dart came with a 7-1/4 rear. I have an 8-3/4 rear for the car now. I had a longer housing cut down to fit. I'm assembling the rear now and just discovered an issue. Looking back at pictures of my original 7-1/4, there is a clip on the front side of the right hand axle tube that the...

I got mine to fit on my pre-magnum roller block with TTi shorty headers. It took a little clearancing though. The full length headers will definitely hit. If you can get them to fit, I'd use them.

The factory used them for a reason. The trans bellhousing hangs pretty low and is unsupported on a small block. They weren't used on a BB. I think the BB's have some lower bellhousing mounting holes that the small blocks don't have. That's a lot of area left unsupported without some bracing...

I've got a TF-2 in my 904. When the trans shop had it on the dyno, they noted that the pressure was extremely high in reverse. So high that they recommended I take it easy in reverse or I'd be bending a band apply lever.

I had a C-body rear end shortened for my 68. I had the perches welded at 42" centers and used Dr Diff hangers and axles. Even with the cost of shortening and custom axles, I've got less into it then what stock A-body units are selling for.

Thanks. I ordered the Dr Diff 11.7" rear kit yesterday.

Thanks for those. Is your housing stock A-body width? 52 5/8 I believe. If so, I can just subtract 11/16 from that measurement.

My 68 Dart originally came with a 7 1/4 rear. I had a old 8 3/4 housing shortened to fit. The replacement housing doesn't have the tab on the passengers side axle tube for the e-brake cable. Does anyone have a measurement of where that tab should be placed on an 8 3/4? The original 7 1/4 is...

Mines a stock restored car, so all the factory PCV system is in place. It started leaking right from the first start-up. I've also read where oil can leak between the main cap and block if both aren't completely flat. Some people even recommend a little RTV on the ends of the seals where...

Also, pay close attention to what way you orient the seal. The lip of the seal should face the engine...not the transmission. That seems backwards but it isn't. I think a lot of SB rear main leaks are caused by the seal being installed backwards. My Challenger rear main is leaking. My guess...

It will be way too wide. I've got a C-body 8 3/4 that is basically the same width as the E-body piece. I'm going to have it shortened and then buy Dr Diff axles. $200 to narrow the housing and $300 for axles.

How are your U-joints? If they aren't new, that could be your "clunk". The TF-2 shift kit really quickens the shifts. I didn't realize my U-joints were bad until I installed that kit. They made noise at almost every shift. You can address that when you go through the rear end.

The top rod is shaped differently. A four barrel carb is taller and wider then a 2-barrel. You can modify the rod and make an extension for it...or you can buy the correct pieces. My modified upper rod is at the zinc platers right now, otherwise I'd post a picture of the difference.

My 73 904 has the small access cover as well.