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If you use them, I would have them looked over by a local machine shop first. I bought a set of rebuild 318 heads from Aerohead from that timeframe and they were all messed up. While priming the engine I couldn't get oil to one rocker bank. The oil feed hole in that head was plugged. A...

Most of the black pieces are powdercoat. I think the coater said it's a 60% gloss. A few parts are painted with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black satin. The paint and the powder look the same. Originally the factory used gloss black for dipped parts. It was a very cheap gloss black paint...

I'm not sure. I would have to do some research again. I know Allpar had a good writeup on the engine plants at one time.

Both brackets are painted black. Certain procedures could have changed over time but when I was restoring my 73, the consensus was that the water pump bolts were installed on the engine before it was painted. When the engines were dressed out, the water pump bolts were removed and then...

My opinion... If there is other woodgrain on the interior, the brown will look fine. If the rest of the interior is shades of blue, the brown will look out of place. I recently saw a really nice woodgrain wheel for sale at a decent price. I was tempted to buy it but it would have been the...

The bezels I got from Van's came with new attaching screws. The ones supplied with mine weren't the right size. They were probably metric. You'll probably have to reuse your original screws if you are using original housings. The supplied screws probably fit the reproductions housings.

It cuts down on electrical noise in the radio. I think they call them a radio suppression capacitor.

They were originally galvanized. The metal was galvanized 1st and then the parts were stamped out of the galvanized sheet. There is no way to re-galvanize them. Your picture looks like they are in decent shape. I would just soak them in EvapoRust for about 20 minutes. That will clean them...

I used SEM Trim Black on mine. You are looking at an old tag that has been cleaned/rubbed/polished multiple times. The paint on the old one isn't going to look the same as a freshly painted one.

Agree with the above statement. Factory was all black. You see cars with shiny numbers because the paint has been rubbed off over the years from wiping down the dash.

Looks no worse then a lowrider with skinny whitewalls on 100 spoke gold wheels and a bunch of pinstriping. There are lots of different car cultures and styles. Who says one style is better or worse then another? Is it something I would build?...no. But I also wouldn't build a "day 2" car...

So, what's the cost for what you show there? Last time I had something rechromed was around 2011. I had an original antenna bezel re-chromed and that alone cost $50.

I put an inexpensive factory style spoiler on my daily 16 Dart and painted it with spray can SEM Trim Black. That was in 2017 and it still looks good. The car sits outside too...not in a garage. The Trim Black is meant to be used on exterior trim. Very good paint.

SEM Trim Black

E-bodies had the rocker pinch-weld blacked out too. I don't think A-bodies had that from the factory.(maybe the later years did...not sure) It looks much cleaner if you can't see body color on the pinch-welds. My 68 Dart convertible is getting the pinch-welds blacked out even if it wasn't...

Magnumforce makes the 2" drop spindles. They are based off of the 73+ spindle.

So he received a complete car from Plymouth and disassembled the entire thing? I would have thought the factory would have provided him with a "body in white".

That's a no brainer. The convertible top mechanism should be worth way more then that. Too far gone for me but you'll get a lot of nice parts off of it for that price.

My 68 convertible is getting a 73 Challenger tag...just to mess with people.

Most likely you just need an alignment. If the wheel was upside down then it could be that the steering coupler was installed 180 out. There is a master spline on the steering coupler and steering box. The end of the coupler has a small notch in it that lines up with the master spline. There...

Walmarts around here have it.

I replicated the original "suede" finish pretty closely with Rustoleum fine texture black. Then I top coated it with some clear to dull down the texture slightly...so it would be easier to clean. You could top coat this in blue and then a matte clear. Herb's has a really nice line of interior...

They don't look like 73-74 Challenger guards.

I didn't say they were the same. I said it would fit. $40 vs $140...I'll use the e-body cable.

There's a lot of extra length on A-body cables IMO. Although I'm not building a stock type car, I just test fit some E-body cables and they will work for me.

You can buy an E-body battery cable from your local Dodge dealer. It will be a little shorter then the "correct" one but you can still make it work. It's a nice factory looking piece...not a parts store generic cable. Just saw this one too. Mopar A Body - Dodge Dart / Plymouth Duster Battery...

Exactly. That's basically what I was saying but I didn't type it all out as good as you did. I think 5" backspacing is what I'll end up with. How wide a wheel I'll be able to fit is the big concern. Also a 7" wide wheel with 5" backspacing might look pretty goofy. If I don't use the drop...

The spindles and big brake kits do move the wheels out father on the 72 and older cars. From the very beginning I knew I would be ordering custom wheels though. That being said, I'm still worried about what I'll be able to fit under the front of my 68. With a dropped spindle, the outer tie...

I've got the Magnum Force drop spindles. Bought them from a member here used. They are nice pieces. I've got Dr Diff's Mustang cobra big brake kit on them.

Correct. My 68 318 has the cast-in timing marks on the PS. 1970 is when they made the switch to the aluminum water pump. The timing marks moved to the DS at that time.