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I had a hard time finding an LED bulb that would fit inside that glass dome. I ended up buying some bulb adapters like these. That way I could just use a common short T10 bulb. 2x T10 194 to BA15D 1142 1004 1076 1130 1158 1176 Transformer Bulb Socket Base | eBay

Year One's wiring harnesses are made by M&H. Classic Industries can sell M&H harnesses now too. You might get lucky and Classic might have one on the shelf. It would be worth a call.

The forward light harness isn't a separate harness in 68 like it is in other years. The headlight wiring is part of the main engine harness. Year One sells M&H harnesses. They sometimes have a 30% off sale. I think Classic Industries also sells M&H harnesses now too.

I tried some white LEDs behind the amber/red side markers in my 68. The bright white light bleached out the amber/red lenses and turned the color white/pink respectively. I had to find colored LEDs for that application. I have white LEDs in my dash and they still give off a blue light in that...

The Pertronix distributors are really tall. You'll need to run angled plug wire boots on the cap otherwise you'll hit the wiper motor body. Even then, the boot will be very close to the wiper motor. You might need to index the oil pump drive gear over 1 tooth to position the distributor cap...

So, you're saying that you disconnected the wires from the ballast and the car still ran? The coil gets power from two places. During "run" it gets power from the blue wire that goes through the ballast. During "start" the ballast is bypassed and the coil gets a full 12v from the brown wire...

This is what I did. The wire coming off the alternator is already in the harness so it would have been more work to remove it. I just left it there. Now the interior is feeding from two locations instead of one. I did add a fusible link to the original black wire coming off the alt. Now...

That diagram is somewhat confusing. The brown wire(J3 16) should start at the ignition switch and should end at the output end of the ballast.(bypassing the ballast during start) The brown wire should connect directly to the blue wire at the ballast. The blue wire then runs to the coil. That...

The brown wire that comes out of the ignition switch powers the coil during "start". The brown wire bypasses the ballast. As soon as you let off the key, power jumps to the blue wire that comes out of the ignition switch. Since you said the engine starts when you release the key, this means...

Digitails has these for 69 Barracuda. 1969 Plymouth Barracuda LED Tail Light Panels | DIGI-TAILS I sent them one of my 68 Dart tail light housings so hopefully they will have something available for that soon. So, if you own a 68 Dart and are interested in one of their kits, please email them...

If you go with an aftermarket "ready to run" distributor, be aware of the height difference. They are a lot taller then the stock distributors. A-body engine compartments are tight and your plug wires will be very close to your wiper motor. At the very least you'll need to use a stock style...

1971-1973 Dodge Dart LED Tail Light Panels | DIGI-TAILS

What car do you have? DigiTails makes LED tailight kits for a variety of Mopars. I sent them one of my 68 Dart tail light housings so hopefully soon they will have a kit for me. Replacement 1157 bulbs don't work very well with what I've seen. The light they put out isn't reflected by the...

yep, or your battery has a small crack in the case.

I had a loose pin but it wasn't broken off. I inserted a paper clip through the pin so it stuck out the back side. Then I filled the inside of the pin with solder from the back. Finally, I snipped off both ends of the paper clip flush. It worked perfectly. The pin is solid. Don't know if that...

The blue wire should have power in the RUN position. The brown wire should have power in the START position. Start at the base of the steering column and make sure you have power on both sides of the ignition switch connector. If that tests good, move to the bulkhead connector and test on...

This probably doesn't help you but I got mine from Fred Gilmore. Get a price from him and from a place in Canada. Maybe it would be cheaper...maybe not.

The main issue with Mopar wiring is the bulkhead connector. From sitting that long, the connections are probably corroded and not making good contact. This is a dangerous situation because this could cause a fire. Pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean/inspect the connections. Once it's...

So did my 68 Dart. The factory used the flat braided cables into the 80's.

Anyone have a 68 Dart? Does your harness have the jumper wire?

M&H is sold through Year One. Harnesses are basically the only thing I buy from Year One. I wait for a 25 or 30% sale. You can get them other places but they are just buying them from Year One. M&H has an exclusive contract with Year One. IMO they are the best harness on the market. I bought...

I've got the original harness and the replacement M&H harness side by side. The original harness has a short brown jumper wire on one of the bulkhead connectors. The new harness doesn't have this jumper wire. I'm wondering if other 68 harnesses have this wire or if it was added at some point. If...

Redfish sells a nice one too.

That's interesting. My late 72 built 73 Challenger uses a negative cable with two wires on it. One wire goes to the DS head, the other goes to the rad support. Later on in 73, the factory added an additional ground wire from the back of the PS head to the firewall. The two ground wires coming...

I bought two cables from a Chrysler dealer. I used one on my 73 Challenger and one I'm going to use on my 68 Dart. They were $29 each. My friend gave me a slight discount but they shouldn't cost more than $40. Call the dealer and have him look it up.

The printed letters/numbers/lines exc... aren't perfect but they look decent from a foot away. If you look close you can see the printing marks. A decal will never look exactly like a "painted" surface like factory. They offer a gloss or a matte white vinyl. The matte material looks a lot...

Look at the link I posted. Whitegauges.net already offers gauge faces. They offer them in original black too...not just white. They will do custom wording. It only cost me an extra $10 for the custom wording. Here's what they did for me. Other then the faces being white, you wouldn't...

That's the same link that was posted above. That's what gave me the idea for the oil pressure gauge in that location. Yes, it has been done. That's why I was telling him another company already offers a custom decal...or will do it for much less than $100.

That's exactly what I did...except I put an oil pressure gauge there in place of the AMP gauge. The Whitegauges.net kit came with a new overlay so you don't even have to use the Sun Pro face...just the guts.

I had Whitegauges.net do custom wording for my 68. It was only a $10 setup fee. The overlay kit that I bought came with an AMP overlay as well as a VOLT overlay. Here is what they offer for your 74. http://www.whitegauges.net/products/1970%252d1976-Dodge-Dart-White-Face-Gauges.html