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I just sent an email to Dr Diff.

Are the rear drums adjusted correctly?

I saw that that was going to be an issue when I was looking at buying frame connectors. That's why I made my own out of 1x2 rectangular tubing and ran them into the frame at both ends. I installed my new lines a couple weeks ago and they went right in.

From the rear... Once you get past the wheel well, they hug the inner rocker until they get to the seat reinforcement bracket. They make a 90 degree turn at the seat reinforcement bracket and then another 90 right after the bracket so the line is running towards the front again.

Some 7-1/4s only have 4 mounting holes in the backing plates where the 8-3/4 has 5. I successfully swapped all the brakes from an 82 Cordoba 7-1/4 to an 8-3/4. I'm not sure what size the rear brakes were on that car. Probably 10". If your backing plates only have 4 holes then I don't think...

Have you checked Fine Lines to see if they make a replacement? If they don't, call them anyway. I bet they will make them for you. They didn't list the correct fuel pump to carb lines for my car. I sent them my original ones and they made me a new set.

There have been issues with the reproduction prop valves for years. Original ones can be taken apart and rebuilt with new o-rings.

Booster Dewey

"That 1 1/32 bore master has me concerned a little though. Most people that convert to 4 wheel discs use the 15/16 bore master. The 1 1/32 might give you a rock hard pedal and poor braking." Doctor Diff sells a 15/16 bore master. His masters have the extra recess in the back of the piston to...

I agree. There's no way to know until you take it for a drive and see how the brakes react. That 1 1/32 bore master has me concerned a little though. Most people that convert to 4 wheel discs use the 15/16 bore master. The 1 1/32 might give you a rock hard pedal and poor braking.

I agree. Brake hoses go bad from the inside out. This is where I'd start. Disconnect the hose from the hard line and see if you have pressure there when you step on the brakes.

Here's the one off of my 68 Dart 4-wheel drum car. I cleaned it up an it will be used again when the 4-wheel discs are installed.

I'm switching from 4 wheel drum to 4 wheel disc. I'm using a newer style aluminum master with an adapter plate to the firewall. My stock pushrod is the correct length for this setup as well.

Are you using a booster or just manual brakes? The 1 1/32 bore master is too large for a 4-wheel manual disc setup. You'll get a hard pedal like you describe. Dr Diff recommends a 15/16 bore 2-bolt aluminum master in that application. He modifies the standard 15/16 bore masters to accept a...

Normally, those masters don't have a machined sealing surface. It's hard for the gasket to seal on a rough cast finish. You can try to file it smooth or you can do what I did and put a light skim coat of rtv on the lip. Just enough to fill in the casting roughness. I also switched to dot 5...

Just repeating what Fine Lines recommends.

You used the stainless lines right? Stainless lines can be hard to seal. Try tightening then loosening...then tightening then loosening the lines a few times. That seems to help them seat. I know Fine Lines recommends using a small amount of pipe sealant on the back side of the flare.

Dewey replates the housings. Any rust pitting will still be there though.

I sent mine to Booster Dewey. Maybe he would sell you the parts you need...maybe not. It's worth a try.

Don't paint it. Leave it cast. Look into a product called RPM. It's sold by ECS Automotive. It's an invisible coating that keeps bare metal parts from rusting. One container will treat all the bare metal parts on the car.

ECS is the manufacture. You can buy it from other venders as well.

On 1970 E-bodies the master and brake booster were assembled as a unit and then sprayed black. 71-74(except hemi) were bare metal. A-bodies are a different animal. Don't know if they were sprayed black or not.

It's called RPM. You can find it at ECS Automotive. One jar will coat all the bare metal parts on the car.

RPM it. You can buy it from ECS Automotive. It's a paste. To apply it, you heat the part to 120 degrees and brush on the RPM. It will melt onto the part and keep the bare metal looking new. Once it's dry, you can't tell it's been applied. I used it on a bunch of my Challenger parts...

What kind of prop valve are you using...an aftermarket adjustable one or a stock style repro? There have been a lot of issues with the stock style repro prop valves. They were machined wrong and lock up the brakes. I don't know if this was ever fixed or if there is still a problem with them...

Fine Lines Inline Tube The Right Stuff

For those people with stock looking engine compartments, look into a product called RPM. Once the rust is off the master, you use a heat gun to apply the RPM. Once it's dry, it's invisible and will protect the bare metal. I coated my master a couple years ago and it's still rust free. My new...

Can you post a picture of what you have? That would be the easiest way for us to see what's going on here.

I was referring to the new stock style valve from Inline Tube. I said nothing about an adjustable valve. I would not buy a new stock style valve.

What's that supposed to mean? The new repops were machined wrong on the inside. The brakes would lock up and not reliece. Original ones can be taken apart, cleaned and reused.