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You have his name or email or web address or business name?

Nasty stuff for sure.

Dip it in what?

I believe the plastic is polystyrene. I would try testors plastic model cement on the cracks. Be careful where you get it cause it actually melts the plastic. Any kind of plastic body filler for the marred surfaces, but sand the area with 60-80 grit sandpaper so the filler has something to stick...

Thats a good question, hopefully for you it will.

Loosen anchor bolts. Sit in and just seat to driving position. Put seat belt on. Tighten anchor bolts in that position. Be comfortable.

your definitely getting there, keep moving forward with your endeavors.

Did you try to install it? More than likely it will work.

Cut a hole in the front of the enclosure the size of a toilet paper tube. Insert a toilet tube till it sounds right. Cut off excess and glue it in.

Just get a good used a body bench seat. The last two I bought were $100 each.

I’m thinking the software takes into account all the variables that you prompt it with and it moves point to point which would make for a very long, large program. Lot of data. Technology has come a long way since the advent of 3D printing.

That would be G code programing, as in G1 linear feed, G2 and G3 circular interpretation and G0 rapid traverse.

Most awesome and way cool.

Can you post a picture of the prototype part in the dash. Just want to see the contrast.

Is the coding esa/iso that is used in cnc programs?

I have a 70 bench in my 69 swinger. It fits fine and I don’t have to reach to the floor to release the lock to move the seat back forward.

Cut a 3-4 inch circle out of paper and tape it to the dash to where you can see it to get an idea of where it can be seen. Follow suit with paper circles for other gauges.

The problem is round gauges are hard to see through the steering wheel. The sweeping stock speedometer is not.

68 is a one year only dash so I’m going to say no.

Pictures of area they go on, I may have them from a 68 dart.

Where do you get it?

Been looking for hard board are backing board if you will to redo some door panels I have. Anyone have a source or an automotive upholstering trade publication?

I thought it was mid year 1968.

Post pictures so we know how to go about this. Did you use an impact wrench or a socket and ratchet?

From my recollection those look correct. But I know someone on here will know for sure. Expensive seats.

the problem usually is the drain holes in the fresh air duct the cowl creates get plugged and rain water pools rusting the lower cowl out.

just a guesstimate at labor only.

I would start looking for a restoration shop. Looks to me like a 4 day job. $2750-$3500 plus materials. But I’m not a body man, I’m a dismantler and parts seller.

Yep, windshield and dashboard have to come out. Top cowl and lower cowl need to be cut out from the firewall and pillar posts. Your lower cowl is rusted and looks like you need to replace it. Upper and lower cowl are sandwiched together with the firewall and spot welded. There is seam sealer...

mopar brothers are brothers.