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You have to be careful taking it apart that you don’t damage the phenolic resin fuel body. Other than that,make sure the butterfly shafts are not loose. There are bushing kits to repair them if they are loose from wear. Rebuild is fairly simple, its the tuning that is the time consuming part and...

RR, what heads are you using on your setup?

Can you port the intake per rules? That would make a huge difference. Too bad you can’t use a Holley 2 barrel.

If I had a street car with this manifold, I’d figure a way to use the Holley throttle body. It is a really good setup. My 89 D250 was a 4400 lb truck with me in it and it got up and ripped really well. The milage was pretty good also. 17 mpg if I remember correctly.

What year imperial?

Best would be an intake manifold off a 2 hole throttle body fuel injection manifold. I had one on my 89 D250 pickup truck with a 360 in it. You will know it when you see it, it has a Holley throttle body on it with holley cast in big letters on it.

Yep, I race only. Idle circuit and tune to wide open throttle. Known as manual fuel injection. All the short track modified’s ran them in the burg I grew up in. Really cool piece. If you had a high end, max effort engine, thats what you used. Really well suited for alcohol fuel.

What problems do you have with ethanol oxygenated gasoline.

Take the intake to a machinist and have him cut the bolt. Some places have a machine like and edm specifically for zapping broken bolts and taps out.

Used

Good choice, rare and increasingly expensive carbs.

Oh, by the way, by cooling it, I mean throw it in the freezer for 3-4 hours.

If you use a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner it may help some, harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner,? No. Heat, cool cycling and drilling it out hot are paramount I would think cause the aluminum body is going to expand more than the steel screw jet. That may give more room for penetrating...

Good luck with drilling them out, if I were you, I find a competent machinist with expertise in that sort of thing. I’m a retired tool and die maker and I also have a TQ base with a busted screws. My plan is to get the base plate hot in a pot of boiling water, repeating the process over and...

650 avs, plug and play. Rebuilt thermoquad if you want to go down the rabbit hole.

Thermoquad.

Easily? You couldn’t till holley came out with the 3 barrel carbs sometime around 67-68 ish. Up until that time it was 750 cfm.

I got a few 9801’s that look to be very little used and one 9800 if I ever go to the dark side.

Yeah, about 20 years ago TQ’s and parts started getting stupid expensive. Before that time I bought up stuff that I thought was reasonable. Sadly I wish I had bought more at the unreasonable price cause it’s all 3-4 times that now.

If anyone finds new rods and jets, please post detailed contact information on them.

It may not be all about air flow, there may be increased signal to the boosters and less pressure drop over the top of the carb. Plus your air filter housing top should be 3 inches from the top of the carb.

Best if you loctite the stud in, but not with the permanent stuff.

No, get this one and you will not be disappointed. And if you paid $100 for the carb and manifold, you stole it. That’s a $400 combo there east. The carb alone I would expect to pay $250. If that is a 71 intake, I can’t see the part number, its the best of the stock intakes.

I believe removing the choke horn and smoothing the entry in that area will help contribute to improving the things I mentioned in my first post. I’m not saying the mods you did do not work and are duly noted to things I will try.

Just so you know, there are more things to consider than just cfm or increasing cfm when modifying any carburetor. Increasing flow efficiency. Reducing turbulence. Increasing signal strength. Reducing pressure drop over the top of carb. Just to name a few.

With your compression ratio, 160-170 is about right.

Was second pull with a holley? Tell him you want your avs and to tune it. If that does not suit your horsepower goals, get a thermo quad and have him tune it on the dyno.

He should have jetted and re rodded your avs. A smaller carb is just going to hurt more. Avs has 554 cfm and on a dual plane each cylinder only sees 277 cfm. Your cam definitely needs to be degreed in with a degree wheel. That is your first step. Second step is to check distributor advance...

With any stock head and not just mopars, air flow and cylinder filling is less than optimal. That is why you want to squeeze what you do have as much as possible.

I miss calculated, I have edited my post. Keep in mind that these are simple calculators and do not take into consideration of all variables.