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M&H is who I use.

Yes, the knob and shaft are one piece with the headlight switch. The wiper knob comes off it's shaft by loosening an allen head set screw.

The type of nut should be the same style as the one on the wiper switch.

GM had ones like that, but, I don't remember seeing any for Mopars. Easy way to find out....try to install it and see if it can be adjusted correctly.

Best? Replace the board with a new one. 2nd best, replace the board with a good used one. 3rd best, solder across the gap as mentioned.

I may have the switch. PM me if you want me to search for one in my parts.

The antenna doesn't mount in the hood, so, why is that an issue? Am I missing something here? Fiberglass fenders are a different story. The earlier cars required the antenna to be grounded. Not sure on your year and model. Try running a temporary ground wire to the antenna housing to see if that...

A Gen 1 Hemi has the distributor in the rear just like a small block.

IIRC, the turn signal pigtails changed in '72 from the '70-1 round pin type, to the '72 spade connector type.

What else do you need to know?

Yes, same rotation. The advance curve, weights and springs are for the 392 though.

It will bolt on and run, but, the specs may not be correct for your application.

Yup, 1958 392 Hemi

Being rebuilt, it could have a variety of outputs. Looks like the original number have been bead blasted off. It's also missing the adjustment bushing in the housing for the hinge bolt.

I'd 86 that flex fan too, unless you want to start tossing shrapnel through the hood or radiator.

A/C=2 groove pulley, non-A/C=1 pulley. Looks like yours originally had A/C and it was partially removed....at least the compressor was. You still have the A/C brackets and pulleys though. You need a set of non-A/C brackets and pulleys for things to line up correctly.

If the engine will crank over and start by bypassing the relay, the battery and it's connections are good enough. If the engine will crank and start by running a temporary hot wire to the solenoid connection on the relay, the relay and it's wiring to the starter are good enough. Try those tests...

The 100/120 amp "police" alternators are much bigger in size, require their own unique brackets and voltage regulator, and also the wiring harness is heavier duty to handle the higher amperage.

Yup, also be careful with the driveshaft. They break pretty easily too. Don't twist from the motor end, always grab the pump end on the pump shaft itself, not the driveshaft. Either that, or you can spread the main housing apart enough to release the driveshaft so you don't run that risk. It's...

You went much further than I've had to do. I've pulled the cover on dozens of those pumps to free them up. It's almost always the plastic pump section that locks up. I just run some WD40 or similar into the pump inlet tube and grab the input shaft of the pump section with some needle nose pliers...

No

Your 20 volt scale looks to be accurate, but, the 200 scale isn't all the time. I suspect a faulty meter in that mode.

Couldn't hurt, but, I've never had a bad ground issue with a light switch.

Yup, time to get a new car.......the ashtray is full! :lol:

That's some ugly looking wiring. I suspect you overloaded the main power supply to the dash.... at the bulkhead connector, ignition switch connections, fuse box, light switch, fuseable link, battery connection, etc. Time to trace where you have power to where you don't.

The wire filament breaking is how they fail. Why, is metal fatigue from heating and cooling, or, physical abuse like impact on the insulator or yanking the wires off the terminal. Not much different than why an incandescent light bulb fails.

It could be that when the dash harness was moved around, there may have been a strain on the dash circuit board plug causing a bad connection. It's easy to loosen one of those pins in the circuit board.

That's the ground strap between the engine and body. It should be connected to a good clean metal surface on the engine. I like the coil bracket bolt, but, an intake bolt will work too.

I suspect a bad ground up front by the grille and core support. Try running some temporary extra ground wires to see if that cures the problem. Get/make a set with alligator clips and make sure you have a good connection on each end.....socket to bare body ground or all the way to the negative...

That valve on the firewall is called an OSAC valve. It's used for reducing smog by limiting vacuum advance at certain times. If you don't need it for a smog test, yes, you can bypass it and run the vacuum hose direct from the ported vacuum source to the vacuum advance. I'm not seeing any "little...