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All '66 Darts use the same trunk lid except the station wagon. Moldings and emblems might be different between models however, so, you may need to drill or fill holes. No other year or model is the same.

IIRC, the stud clip goes on the rear....where you can get a socket on it. No access in the front without pulling the interior panel.

I have quite of bit of info on interchange. just ask! :)

IIRC the 5 hole glass is correct for a '73 and early '74 model. The 7 hole glass is the late '74-6 type. I can't remember the exact changeover date, but, I think it was in mid or late Sept. 1973.

Those are the standard '68 inserts thar came with all the 6cly and 318 cars.

I've always thought the finned ones were '67 and '68 had three different types.....the plain, 340S, and 383S.

'70 is the same too.

The door glass is the same size for all A-body 4DR's from '67-76. They do make both clear and tint however.

I parted out one car that had it's build sheet in the typical place in the rear seat back springs, but, also 5 more under the rear seat bottom from 5 different cars built that day. Must have been one of the last cars assembled that day and the installer needed to sweep up his work station.

Do it like Mother Mopar did and run some heater hoses back there with an extra heater core.

The effects of drought. fires, or flooding is purely political here in Ca. It's a matter of will and fighting various whacko groups that fight every single project to store water, build flood control, manage forests, build solar/wind energy farms, etc. Would I live in San Francisco or Los...

Anything could have happened to that sticker in 40 years.....

That's not a major problem in many places here, and you're not immune to them either.

You got it new?

Probably not. I've seen ones faded out, and if you remove the surface coating, it pulls the numbers and letters off too.

I don't see the code there anywhere......I believe it's an H31 for the rear window defogger option.

I've got a couple of factory rear defogger option kits for a '66 Barracuda. Another I got out of a '65, so, not sure how early they started. Anyone else with a '64-6 Barracuda (or any other '66 and earlier A-body) with rear defog? Seems to be a fairly rare option back then.....at least around...

To verify which bumper you have, look at the turn signal lens. If it has a 66V on it, it's a Valiant bumper.

The lock cylinder is for a '70-up tilt column. Yes, the tag is the code for cutting the key.

Here's what the ones on the side toward the front look like. The ones inside the glove box section have black flat head phillips screws and a very thin black flat washer (about 3/4" or so in diameter) that is countersunk right where the screw head goes, so, everything sits flat and nothing is...

They don't look like the originals IIRC. I believe they have a round head and are phillips head. The shaft is a typical screw thread and not self tapping.

The turn signal is in the grille that year. Maybe a photo of what you need?

IIRK, they're phillips head screws with built-in loose washers. I don't have one handy at the moment.

I've used Turtle Wax chrome polish with good success. It works good on the plastic headlight covers to get rid of that haze too.

The etching is usually on the rear lower corner on the door glass.

All the factory glass has something etched on it. A logo for sure, and tinted if it is. I'll try to photograph one of my earlier "windscreens " for you tomorrow.

IIRC, the factory glass has the pentastar logo and/or the DCPD logo etched into the center bottom of the glass along with ASI, laminated, a date code, and sometimes other info. Aftermarket glass would depend on the manufacturer. Sometimes that etching is very faint and hard to read or photograph.

I used #moparleo to rebuild mine.

Not too many options......it's a 1971 Slant 6 Duster, 225 engine, 904 transmission, 2.76 rear, A/C, tinted glass, 50 amp alternator, AM radio, power steering, woodgrain steering wheel, bench seat. That's about all I can read.

If you plan on installing a new gasket, then just cut the old one with a razor blade box cutter and remove the windshield yourself. If you're keeping the old gasket and it cost more than a new windshield, try pulling the windshield and if it breaks, oh well, get a new one. I find using a wide...