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I haven't seen a small block crank that wasn't drilled deep enough but I admit I haven't measured every one I've ever had. It's just the diameter of the inner hole that is too small on most automatic cranks. You can use the later magnum bearing or hone the crank hole and cut down a stock bushing...

If that's the case, I've never seen a two wire one for and automatic!

I've never seen a 3 wire backup light switch. What year and model uses those?

Yours sounds more like a throwout bearing noise but it could be the input bearing too. Maybe both. Is there plenty of freeplay in the clutch adjustment? Can you feel a vibration with your hand on the clutch pedal without depressing the pedal? Does the transmission shift ok otherwise?

?? There is only one mount for the shifter.....it attaches to a plate that is bolted to the extension housing.

V8's and 6's don't use the same bolt pattern. There are quite a few different flywheels depending on your year, model, and clutch size. There are some that interchange between truck/van and car. What rig do you have that you're trying to match?

I've run the 85-140 gear oil in mine for over 30 years now without a problem. In a real cold climate, you might want to run something a little thinner but I'd still get something made for hypoid gears so it'll handle the load. Plain engine oil just won't cut it.

If it was those roller bearings it would make noise with the car stationary, in neutral, and the clutch engaged. With the clutch released, there should be very little movement of the input shaft if any. More than a little and you'd never get it in gear without grinding.

The shifter goes through the floor console but the plate it goes through is different between a manual and automatic. If the changeover came out of a '67-76 A-body, all the clutch linkage, bell housing, and shifter (if it's a console type shifter), and pedal assembly should work with the car...

I agree, a bell housing alignment problem is not going to pick on 1 or 2 gears. It will cause a hard shift and clutch shudder in all gears and like 67dart273 said, it will eat pilot bushings and transmission main bearing.

You'll need a floor shift hump and a manual trans front console plate. All the small block cranks I've seen have been drilled deep enough but not all of them are machined to accept a pilot bushing. You can have the crank or bushing machined to work or just use a magnum pilot BEARING which will...

Nice thought but as oldkimmer said, the balance is totally off. You'd have to pull all the rotating assy out of the engine and completely rebalance it. I'd just get a forged crank before I went to that trouble. Zero balanced flywheels are a lot easier to find.

I'd start with a complete clean and lube on the shifter and then adjust it according to the manual.

Unless you get a kick out of making things fit, you'll want to get a bell housing that matches the car, the transmission you're going to use, and the flywheel. Have you bought the other parts yet? If so, which ones did you get?

I'd check the pilot bushing/bearing real good too. The reverse problem may have been a dragging clutch caused by bad adjustment, warped clutch disc, or faulty pressure plate. You can test the T/O bearing in a vise by using another known good bearing on the other side. I use an inner wheel...

I'd be surprised if a steel 440 crank wasn't drilled deep enough. Usually, they're just not finished for a bushing on the automatic versions.

Well, then let me be the first on bushing failures. I've pulled them apart and seen the bushing so bad that there were just a few crumbs left to tell it had a bushing at all. When they totally disintegrate like that, the input bearing is usually toast and many times the snout on the bearing...

I agree. For the street and normal shifting, I like the Inland. I find it easier to shift and like the trigger reverse lockout. Racing is a different story. The Hurst shifter will take the abuse a lot better. I've heard of guys yanking the handle right off an Inland under drag race conditions...

Like cuda20 said, the crossmember is the same. Are you sure you bought an A-body transmission? A photo would help us here.......

I agree. It's far superior to the bushing. If you have a '67 and earlier 273 or S6 you're out of luck though as the converter hole isn't big enough for the Magnum bearing. I guess there is more of a chance to damage the input shaft of the transmission with a bearing, but I haven't seen that as...

Yup, use the Magnum pilot BEARING and measure the transmission input shaft length. If you don't have enough depth in the crank pilot hole, you can lop off a little of the input shaft. I wouldn't take off any more than a 1/2" or so. More than that and I'd drill the hole deeper. What year is the...

It might be year dependent on some parts. My early bell housings (cast iron) are engine color but my later ones (aluminum) are natural. All the transmissions I've seen are natural bare metal.

Good thought but you'll have to decide whether it's worth the trouble to swap main shafts and extension housings.

If it doesn't fit the car, how can it be a backup?

You would have to take the transmissions apart to do the job so why not just fix the A-body one? You could sell the B/E body unit to fund the rebuild on the A-body trans.

You might also want to try a yoke from a 518 transmission (if you can find one to borrow) to see how tight it fits. They have a slightly different spline shape and normally fit too tight on a 727 or 833 but maybe with the wear you have, it might work.

I don't know what "shop balanced" is but if the bellhousing has both bolt patterns, it would be one item to grab along with the dust covers. I would get the clutch fork, clutch assy, and flywheel too even if you have to have it rebalanced for an internal 340. If your car is an A-body, not much...

The automatics are not all that tough either. There are more seals and take a little longer to do, but, if you can follow a repair manual and lay everything out like you did on your 4 speed build, it's something you can do. There are a few extra tools to make the job easier (so what else is...

You could get the truck version into the '90s. The 833 behind a 6 option in a car was resumed in the mid 70's and ran through 1980.

If it's a '66-7 A-body 833, the yoke will be the same.....If it's the '68-up A-body version, you'll need the 30 spline yoke. Your current crossmember and mount will work with it. The driveshaft should be close enough to work.