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There should be room in my mailbox now.

I have the factory choke for a 2bbl.

Sure you put oil back in it? :lol: Also, use a live gauge to check the oil pressure and to eliminate any factory sender and gauge/light problem it might have.

No way I would use a flex fan. I've seen too many of them grenade and send shrapnel through the hood and radiator.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I got a fan with some other slant 6 parts and didn't think about checking to make sure it was a 6cyl part. I got to looking at it and measuring, and it just looked too big at a hair over 18". Must be the standard V8 one. I don't suppose there's enough clearance to...

Does someone have an original '66 slant 6 fan they can measure? Looking at the outside diameter of a standard 4 blade one. Thanks, Mark

Nope, I don't have any of those anymore.

If you are installing a different block and still have the old block, yes, you can just transfer over the plug. The easiest way is when the pan is off the old block. You can drive the plug out with a punch and just hammer it into the new block. If the pan is still on the old block, either pull...

Sounds like your ballast resistor isn't in the circuit or is bad/bypassed in some way.

What you and I think is correct. The pressure relief valve only governs the high end of the pressure, not the low end. This assumes that the valve is not stuck open and the return spring is present and not broken. The pressure relief valve doesn't even move until the RPM's are about 1500 when...

That's correct, and it won't fix worn bearings either. Assuming the pressure relief valve isn't stuck, a heavier duty spring will just raise the PSI point where the oil is dumped back into the pan. A stiffer spring might bring the cold or high RPM pressure from 65psi to 80psi but it won't effect...

If the factory parts are a problem in racing, I'm sure someone has a light weight replacement to solve it.

That looks more like a fuel problem! Holley strikes again! :oops:

I think some people are confusing a stock transmission and race transmission. If you build either a 904 or 727 properly, they both hold up just fine. In STOCK configuation, the 727 is heavier duty and will hold up to more abuse than a 904 will. As mentioned, the 727 weighs more and kills more...

It might spark new ideas or information on what to do with these transmissions instead of scrapping them.

It's not a dead post for a newbie. Info is info regardless of when it was written.

If you're carefull knocking out the plug, you should be able to reuse it. You just need it to fit tight enough so that it doesn't pop out.

On a 1920 the check ball is captured inside the metering block. It's removeable by driving it out, and the brass cap that holds it, with a small drift or punch. There is an access hole on the bottom of the cavity in the metering block. I'd make sure the kit has a replacment ball and brass cap...

I don't know if I would be worried about those oil pressure readings but I wouldn't be overjoyed with them either. They're a bit low in my opinion. The slant 6 daily driver I drove for almost 25 years had better oil pressure than that when it had over 250K miles on it. Mine would max out at 65...

If that pressure was at a fully hot idle, that's good oil pressure. If that's right when you started it, not so good. Make a good long pass down the highway before we pass judgement on the sender (and bearings).

Has it EVER worked good in it's present configuration? If not, there could be many other causes not the least of which is cam profile and/or or timing. What's the idle intake manifold vacuum reading? Which engine, carb combo do you have?

You use your skills as a plumber. You may have to head down to your local NAPA store or similar to find some adaptor fittings to get everything to hook up. Just be carefull you don't confuse SAE with Metric. I think I would probably start with looking through the Summit web site and/or calling...

I didn't get any sound on your video but it looks like you have a bad hesitation judging by the tach. As long as your manifold vacuum is good, acc pump is squirting good and immediate, and your initial timing is at least 10 degrees BTDC, you probably have a vacuum advance problem or other...

#1. Check oil for dilution (which it looks like you've already done) #2. Check oil pressure with a live gauge to verify if pressure is really low. #2. Remove and inspect pressure relief valve for proper movement. #4. Replace pump on the odd chance it's bad #5. Bearings are worn out If the sump...

No, not on a slant 6.

If you find bad compression anywhere, readjust the valves and check again. It's very common to find tight clearences after a rebuild.

I think we're talking about a street car here. Most serious race engines don't use a thermostat but use a fixed diameter restrictor washer. They also use an electric motor and/or water pump for flow instead of a crank driven pump. If it's a street/strip engine, I don't think they would be using...

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................................................................................................. Here's a set of NOS OEM wires on E-bay right now.....ends today! slant 6 plug wires