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hit the side of the female taper of the center link where the tie rod taper goes a couple of good solid blows will pop it right out. You may need to put a second hammer on the opposite side to make a solid blow on it.

the coupler in the top pic looks like the top of it has been cut off

Can tell much by the pics posted but if your installing them for more caster the front bushing arrow needs to be pointed toward the ball joint and the rear bushing arrow pointed toward the inner fender.

I done these with duplicolor metalcast

Maybe one column is for a manual steer and the other is power steer.

If you didn’t convert from power to manual steering the inner shaft telescopes in in the event of a collision and is held in place only by extruded plastic pins. It‘s not uncommon for them to break with very little force just pull the inner shaft out to mate the coupler up to the steering box.

Did you have the rubber gasket installed in the plate?

The power steering shaft is 37.5” in length end to end without coupler and the manual shaft is 40 5/8”. Starting in 70’ the key moved to the column so these shafts have a cross pin in the upper portion for the steering wheel lock plate. 67’ was the first year for the collapsible column so the...

Yes that’s what I posted above trust me you will need 73 A arms to use the bigger ball joint. The way to tell which ball joint you have is to measure the width across the flat where the ball joint socket fits. 1.906 small 2.125 big.

The opening For the ball joint is small on the early A arms and the later ones accept the bigger ball joints. So to go to bigger ball joints you would need a set of later 73 up A arms.

You should probably verify these measurements Footnote #39 TTI states they will clear everything as long as the engine is in the correct location in the bay.

Just a thought here but do you have the engine located in the bay with the measurements that TTI headers require?

Yep not sure about the A but on the B and E bodies the dodge is 3/4 inch longer wheel base than the Plymouth

May I ask why you need to remove the shaft? If you could get the cross pin removed you could pull the shaft along with the upper collar but that pin is a bear to remove even when it’s out of the car.

No the shaft will not come out in that direction

Pic looks normal to me gotta have room for the dust boot and allows the taper to fit tight.

Same K member for SB and BB. Slant six and hemi are different. 440 six pack and hemi had a skid plate welded on the bottom.

The rusty K member is for a 70’-74’ E body and 70’ B body. Top set of lower control arms are 67-72 A body and the rusty set are 70’x74’ E body and 70’ B body. The spindles are disc brake spindles probably 73 up A body but can’t tell from the pic.

I think he’s looking for 19-14-38

they differ between power and manual steering and IIRC there’s an early 3” length and later 3.5” but im no expert

Yes. But one difference is that if you have a sway bar and factory sway bar tabs on your current LCAs the 72’ LCAs have the sway bar tab in a different location.

Well if that’s the case for sure just replace the control arm. Does your LCAs have sway bar tabs?

Well that wouldn’t be the best scenario but if it’s been driven and isn’t wearing the tire and is aligned should be good to go. I would agree that it would be best case to replace it.

It’s not that critical really. Just use the porta power and spread the control arm open to close to where it would be originally and roll on.

Go up through the center of the control arm with a socket and extension

Last one I had stuck like that I used an air chisel with the round point chisel. It was the passenger side rear one that’s hard to get to but the air chisel got it done.

Yep a shaft swap would work fine also there is a difference between the shaft to steering box input coupler on the power and manual steering.

Yes by all means post pics as you install it!

It depends on how you want to install it. There was a big block specific k member for 67-69 and left side engine mount bracket. The left side front of the block was drilled to accept the mount bracket. Easiest way to go about it is use a spool mount V8k member and modify the passenger side...

When it comes to lower control arm bushings I have experience with the Moog stuff. I ordered two sets of moog and they were two different styles in them and the quality was terrible they just slipped right on the pivot shaft with no press fit.. I then tried the AC Delco ones and guess what? The...