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I think your best bet is with @hemi71x he may can help you out with the correct bolts. I may have the bolts I will check but no guarantees I do have a few sets of 73 up spindles laying around so maybe.

To me it looks like the bolt is too long and the nylock nut which isn’t factory it is too tall

The pushrod in your pic still has the master cylinder piston on it. It needs to come off

yep or the longer one is for a C body

Most use a master with a 15/16 bore for manual brakes. Little more pedal travel and less effort.

Im pretty sure the mopar axle vent has a check valve in it.

Here’s a few pics of the parts installed on the conversion i did recently

You need calipers and hoses for a 1980 volare. They were rear mounted and work perfectly for the conversion.

There are factory parts available that work with the early sway bar with no issues.

I just did this very conversion on my 69’ bee. I used calipers and hoses for a 1980 volare with rear mount calipers and they worked like a charm. The problem with using calipers intended to be front hung is those cars had the hard brake lines in the front of the upper A arm on the frame so you...

That’s the one I would go with. More pedal travel but less effort.

Never done it but you should be able to use a disc/drum master as long as you use wheel cylinders with the residual valves in them.

yep get a new master cylinder

Lock em up again and try cracking the line at the master cylinder

you have a restriction In the front brake circuit somewhere. More than likely not both hoses more likely in the master or brake distribution block or metering valve. Can you post a pic of your plumbing?

How did you determine the brake rod was not the problem? And do you have the front brake line connected to the large section of the master?

I think those were for balancing

Looks good from here

I’m betting Detroit muscle technology makes them

Well that’s par for reproduction parts:lol:

Bench bleeding on the car is easy just bend up a couple short lines with the correct fittings. Bend the lines so the ends are down in the fluid at all times then slowly pump the pedal

we need more info to diagnose

power or manual brakes? did you mount the calipers to the front or rear of the spindles? anyhow make sure the bleeders are on top otherwise you will never get all the air out.

I’m guessing you have single piston calipers on the front? These masters are used a lot on disc conversions although most go with the 7/8” bore master for less pedal effort.

Casting number says 1971-74 all Mopars with power disc brakes.

smaller the bore size= less pedal effort and more travel on the pedal usually the 7/8 (small)bore master is what you want.

If you pulled the reservoir dry you got air in the master. You can bleed the master in place with two short lines from the outlets turned down into the reservoirs make sure the open ends are below the fluid and pump away.

Sorry can't really help on the leak but the best thing you can do is change out the brake fluid to the new silicon dot 5 fluid. It dose not eat paint or draw moisture.

You just had to mention NAPA now Dell is gonna go off on a rant again:D

The autozone double flare tool works good