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Believe it or not, there was actually a special tool back in the day that you used for the very purpose of centering the steering shaft in the steering column before tightening everything down. I believe it was a Miller C-4134, but it is virtually impossible to find one today.

No biggie either way. Flip a coin.

This is always a controversial subject when it comes up, but yes, there are many mopars running around like that.

Those aren’t replaceable. That was actually injected under pressure when the shaft was made. The purpose was so they would shear during a hard frontal collision and the shaft would collapse and supposedly cause less injury to the driver.

You may want to possibly check out 72bluNblu's theory. Just looking on the Flaming River website, it shows that both the manual and the power steering joints are 4 1/2" long, and they each require the cutting of 1 1/2" off of their respective shafts.

I came across a shaft that is 38" long and was wondering if it was manual or power. So I dunno! Thanks for the reply.

Anybody know the length of a manual steering shaft? Thanks, Robert

Thanks Sireland

Thanks. Where is the best place to purchase one from?

Hey Sireland, my 73 Duster is a floor shifted manual trans. My steering column does not have a lower bearing in it. Will this setup work on mine? Thanks.

Haven't got my car here where I can scope it out, but I think I may want to flip the front spring hangers to get the rear down a bit. Somebody that's done this please give me the details......... What's involved, anything special to watch for or check, about how much will it lower the rear...

They should be the same thickness......probably been changed somewhere along the way.

Should be the same as far as I know.

Ha ! Ha!...........you know that's right.

Yeah, you're good to go. Actually I've even seen worse factory welding on some of the k members. Those (and possibly yours) were probably welded on a Monday or Friday......LOL.

Cal Tracs, mono leaf springs probably $650 - $700 plus shipping.

Flange to flange (not wheel to wheel) length of what you have now (assuming it's the original 7 1/4" rear) should be 53.200". An 8 1/4" rear out of a 73 - 76 A body would measure 51.400". The spring perches measure 43.02" center to center on both of these.

Hey guys thanks for all of the tips. I think I have a game plan now and hopefully all will go well. I knew I could count on you guys for great advice. Thanks again.

Hey thanks for the tip Eric S68. Looks like weld in it is. It's always good to hear from someone who just tackled a particular job and then figured out they should have done it another way. Can't tell you how many times I've done that LOL.

I have some Competition Engineering subframe connectors (bolt-in type) that I was planning on installing on my 73 Duster. Haven't really gotten to the point of trying to install them yet, but at first glance, it looks like they may not work due to the torque boxes. Anyone else had this experience?