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No problem brother! I actually respect and agree with most of your opinions on things here. I just couldn't figure out why I was getting flamed. I just hope the OP finds the MC that works best for him. Take care!

I wasn't ignoring anything. You seem to have me confused with the OP. I have already purchased the 1 1/32" mc and installed it on my car and I'm totally satisfied with it. My post was like many others responding to the OP with my opinion. I was just telling him what I had done and let him go...

Yep, because I usually try to match a smart *** comment with a smart *** comment!! Now, other than your opinion, tell me why I wasted my money when I stated that I go exactly the pedal feel that I wanted!!

Just why exactly was my money wasted screwball?

I bought a master cylinder once from I believe Master Power Brakes, and it had a label that said pretty plainly: "Do Not Use DOT 5 fluid". I have since seen others tagged that way as well. Any idea as to why?

Yep. I told Cass at Dr. Diff that I wanted a firm pedal and he said to go with the 1 1/32" master. It was just what I was wanting, but I'm sure some would think it's too firm.

I have the 1 1/32 mc from Dr. Diff. Pedal is pretty firm and I like it that way. Stops well!

Looks right to me.

Thanks for the info!

Anybody know what application this master cylinder fits? #3461187. Have one in some stuff I got on trade.

No problem, I've done it many times before. The bearing / race is simply packaged as a set for retail sale. They are not truly a "matched" set, but simply the appropriate bearing for the ID of the race. Use the correct part # in a good quality bearing and it'll be fine.

Can you grind the e brake strut link a little for some clearance?

I ran into the same problem with the parts store caps. I finally ordered some from Year One that looked and fit like OEM caps. Don't remember what I paid for them, but you can check their website.

Properly working discs should have a very light drag on them. If the car sat up for a couple of years the calipers sliding surfaces could be rusted causing the problem, or could actually be gunked up inside the caliper piston bore.

The booster is bad.

I installed a complete set of stainless lines from Right Stuff on my '73 Duster. They all fit extremely well and have had no problems with them.

Like lawndart 360 said, I've seen the rubber brake hoses collapse inside. Usually by the time you see any cracking, wear, etc. on the outside, they can already be deteriorated inside. As for the brake lights, they work off of an electrical switch at the brake pedal, and not affected by the...

I've got the Bendix on my Duster. No complaints or quality issues.

Hey thanks for the info jet-taz. I called up Finelines and they have some on the way. Thanks again.

Here's the deal. I'm installing Strange D60 rear in my 73 Duster and I'm trying to find some stainless steel rear axle brake lines. Now since the Dana 60 never came in a production A body, I'm not having much luck finding any. I've checked out Right Stuff, Inline tube, and Classic tube, but...

While there may not be an inherent weakness in the smaller joints, I think dgc333 just made the case........ bigger, stronger, and cheaper. Sounds good to me.

IMO this is one area where bigger is definitely better. Spend the extra bucks now and you'll be done with it and can forget about that area and focus on something else.