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Doesn't sound like a restoration to me, unless I missed the factory twin turbo somewhere! The most affordable way.........to handle the power you make.

If it’s getting scrapped......free.

The skinny end of the torque transfer shaft gets the transmission connection thingy and then goes forward. :)

You'll be alright. Just be sure your breaker bar preferably, or ratchet are in the hole all the way. I say breaker bar because you can tap it with a hammer and not do damage like you might to a ratchet.

I will say no.

What Mustang? Lots of 8.8 swaps. 9" obviously done too. Cheaper than the coveted 8 3/4" now.

That's what I did. I drilled mine out. I did go to the size that would accommodate the bushing, but used the Magnum pilot bushing. It's on page 7 or so in here.......http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/69-road-runner-like-i-needed-another.107905/page-7

2 1/4" deep by 7/8" ID

Reverse lights?

If the car doesn't have to move, I just leave the small floor jack under the pan with a 2x4 spreading the weight of it. If it has to move, ratchet straps up to a board or bar above.

I knew you would find this thread! I stand corrected. :)

I'll go with this. I believe most, if not all, slants came with drum all the way around.

There's your problem.......you installed the wrong antifreeze! It's supposed to be the blackish, thick stuff.

LOL, ya it just grows doesn't it?!

Maybe you could drop it out the bottom and not worry so much about scratching the bay up?

Not really much point doing it in the engine bay. Sounds like it will be coming out anyway. It's just a pain leaning in and working under to remove all the components. I vote pull it out.

What differential? Welcome to FABO.

Maybe a longer axle (B-body?) stuffed in the other side and tapped may loosen it up? You would need to exceed the length by the size of the thrust buttons, presuming they are not in there.

Probably the spacer (thrust block) to run adjustable tapered bearings. Hard to tell with nothing to compare it's size to. It mentions it in Dr. Diff's page here..... http://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-eaton-truetrac-differential.html

This is from an FBBO thread about these. It talks about how to convert them so you can change to the slip on brake drums to reduce the hassle of doing a brake job....but you still need a puller to remove the axles. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion

What mbaird said. It is actually amazingly quick and easy. I don't think I would pull an engine the old fashioned way now! Easy with the sawzall, you may be able to sell those headers if you don't want them...hint, hint! :D Good luck man.

I don't believe the crap about "this is what it costs to run a shop" when it comes to installing a $100 part. Parts and labor used to be fairly close to equal. But I also dont think gas is worth $4 plus a gallon and a new truck $70,000 +. Maybe I'm wrong but isn't everything overpriced today...

Yes I beleive so. I am pretty sure I got that part right! If you look in the link you can see the plug. You helped me identify it back then!

Here is a thread I had about it. No numbers, just shape. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=185617

The A518 has the same pan shape as the 727, probably the same pan all together. Want one? Coming to Lethbridge?! I have one that I have decided not to use. But it's a long trip from the Western Rock! :D

Nice, better start a thread in the shop section! That will make a put new outlook on winter work.

Thanx all. I have also checked the input shaft and it does have the recessed splines, so I guess it is a lock up. :D I guess I will just have to put a little more horse power in front of it, than I had intended, to justify the bigger transmission. :cheers:

Been researching the subject and where to find this transmission. But I failed to analyze enough pictures to know the difference between a 500 and a 518. :banghead: So I go meet a guy with a trans out of a 1992 318 Dakota. He tells me it's an A500 with 221,000kms on it. It's a good deal with...

While reading through Mopar Action, I came across these measurements. They are center of axle to center of u-joint. This should help decide on lengthening or shortening your drive shaft. This does seem to be a common question. Axle............................ C/C dimension 7...

I like it. Being that I am just beginning my build I will seriously consider this option. Thanx T-REX. :cheers: