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Not disagreeing, but a sway bar assists the suspension. It is not the suspension. Could it assist more or less? Sure.

Sway bar is not a torsion bar. Sway bars are optional equipment. Torsion bars are not.

Rubber is flexible. It doesn't know degrees. Mounts were welded on with a tolerance. I'm sure the small amount you might be off won't be an issue.

I'm fairly sure these are weak skilled repairs.

Looks like two rust repairs running up the front frame rails to me. One on each side.

Mopar offered air shocks.

It was ok, but the results just didn't quite meet my expectations.

Good luck man. I’ve done this and it really isn’t as hard as one thinks it might be.

In here [WANTED] - Front frame rail scraps

Your rails obviously only have x amount of play against the crossmember. The inner fender has a hole in it at the top that lines up with a hole on the cowl. @Oldmanmopar (Steve)pointed this out in a post a while back. This hole is a designated point for installing. I’ll see if I can find that...

^^^That is logical.

Sometimes calipers are affected by having a sway bar which would only allow them to be in the rear. But regardless, the bleeder goes up so that helps with which goes on which side.

I suspect when you put weight on it the gap will close up some. But I’m not sure I like a boot that does not seat onto the upper arm in some form.

Honestly, you may get usable parts off another car, but these are parts that commonly need repair. AMD and others sell replacements.

The torsion bar crossmember commonly rusts out. It is not a terribly difficult repair, but it is easier with the floor section out that normally need to be done with it. Look at the rest of the frame rails. If they are OK, this is no biggie, depending on your tools and skill. Also look at the...

I think: #1 = 1973+ sway bar bushings. 70/71 are angled and mount directly to the k-member.

It would bolt in. I think there is an output shaft size change somewhere in the years. Your column length may not be correct. There are some things when changing between manual and power.

Put some fluid in the pump and install a belt. Then you can start from square one.

Wow

If I had the new parts I would change them. Value? No value increase. Feel? Most likely they will feel more secure than the old.

Lol. Ok. I just remember mine having about half welds so I figured they were basically tacked! I did do one set by force without cutting though.

With a lot of effort! You can cut the spot welds and reweld them afterwards. Regardless it’s a job.

I’m quite sure now!

Well. Thanx again FABO. I dug up another old thread, albeit too late, and learned a little about power steering. I assembled my big block Coronet a while ago, but never hooked up the power steering. I wasn’t at a point to deal with it. Anyway, last night I put the belt on. I learned immediately...

Well, I just looked through the classifieds here earlier today. Comparing for Brad. I saw a 3:55 sure grip 489 that was asking $600. That I would consider a premium price. Probably in very good condition. Didn't look how long ago it was though....... I did turn down a 3/;23 sure grip a few...

Oh, $25 or so for the diff stuff, I'll be up tomorrow to pick it up! :)

Get a new set of rails. Either replace the whole way back to the torsion bar cross member or cut them off behind that and section them. It is not uncommon to have this rust. Replacing the rail sounds daunting, but it really isn't too bad of a task.

A pic would be great, but my opinion is cut and replace vs cover and hide.

Do you have a side view comparison?

If it is bolted on, solid and heavy, i took one off a 74 I parted out. Something to do with anti-vibration?