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Ok, folks. Got it fixed! The answer is... the front driveshaft and the Cardon joint. Every thing was done while sitting on jack stands. Before that i sprayed down the 4wd shift linkage and got it moving good. (4 low was difficult to engage) drove it in 4 low for a few minutes. Switch to 4...

Yes sir. Its tight. I hope to get some time after work tomorrow and pull the diff cover off and see if the cross shaft pin and bolt has moved. I don't hear any odd noises in the rear when shifting from fwd/rev either.

No. They may have 2,000 miles on them since I installed them. Pulled them apart and checked. Grease is still nice and clean. Repacked the slip joint on the shaft as well while it was apart. C clips were good too.

Since its sitting on jack stands, I think I'll try going 4wd low and back. I am thinking transfer case/transmission. I will pull the rear diff cover off just to check, but it was all rebuilt in the spring. Anything is possible...

All of the weights still appear to be there and not missing any. I plan on changing the mounts since I already have them. Thanks

I spent some time on it today. Used the FSM and went through with operation the CAD. Spun the tires, front shaft stayed put. Put a vacuum pump on it and shaft turns with tires. Disengaged easily. Pulled the automatic hubs apart and nothing sticks. Pulled the rear driveshaft and checked the...

Okay! Good call On the snap ring.

It returns easily. I dont notice it sticking.

I will rule out tires. Had new set mounted and balanced yesterday. It is speed related. 45mph and up. The faster I go, stronger it gets. Acts the same with both sets of tires. I'll check the knuckle joints again. Thanks!

Vibration is in the seat. Steering wheel still smooth-ish. 4wd lever is making a lot of noise and shakes much more. Axle u-joints are fairly new, and the rear joints are new. I don't feel any binding in the knuckles when I make a sharp turn like I do when the axles are locked in.

4 new tires yesterday with same problem after. Has all new bearings in rear housing about 2,000 miles ago. I have new trans mounts that I can replace as well.

Thanks, I will check that out. I'll look at all the vacuum hoses. Another area for me to look at. My dash light says it's not engaged, but that's not saying it's not still in. Thanks!

It has the automatic front hubs. I had them apart in the spring. Not saying it is not unlocking, but I feel no shimming in the steering wheel. Just through the floor. Guess that's another area to look at. I did engage the 4wd a few times and it still has same problem. The front shaft spins...

My 87 ramcharger started to have a vibration after I used the 4wd last week in a snowstorm. It's always smooth as silk until this. I thought I may have had a bad tire, but had 4 new tires put on and the problem is still there starts about 45 mph and continues on from there. First time I had to...

Thanks folks! I ordered a pair of the Moog 347s from Advance auto for $41.00 shipped. They should be here tomorrow.

Thank you! I see the difference between the 1350 and 7260 style now. I need the 7260-7290 style. Thank you again.

I tried researching first, but came up with too many options and confused me. What is the part number for the big to small conversation u-joints? I have small yoke pinion and 727. The driveshaft I bought is large yoke. I remember that Napa sold them, but couldn't find the number. I would assume...

Sounds like the shop in town, by me wanted to shorten my shaft a few inches. 350.00 to 400.00 depending on u-joint cost. Like hell I said. I'll cut that ***** down myself and get one made from Denny's driveshafts when I'm closer to getting the car finished.

I should paint it hemi orange. That color allegedly adds 10-15 hp, from what I've been told.

Same as mine!

I'm getting to the point of installing the driveshaft finally, and was wondering if they painted the shafts in 73? I'm not building a show car by any means. Just want everything clean and as close to factory when I can. Thanks!

Yes, I noticed that. I have wider and some that are narrower.i dont want to cut a 4bbl bellcrank if I can make a 2bbl one work. Thanks!

No, that is just the kickdown spring. I do have a carb spring on the front as well.

Is my unpainted linkage the 4bbl set?I'm pretty sure it is. I don't want to cut the trans bellcrank down for the tti exhaust to work, if I can cut up the 2bbl set since I have 4 of them. I'm trying to get all the trans linkages hooked up. Small block, 727 trans in a Duster. Thanks!

I acquired a Duster last month and it has an 8.25 rear in it already w/LBP. I will be running an aluminum headed 318 Magnum that made little over 400 Hp on the Dyno and will run a727 w/ a Transgo kit in it. I plan on 3.91 gears and already have a set for the 8.25. I'll need a suregrip unit. I...

Awesome! Thanks guys for the info. Maybe i'll drop the pan at some point and put one of those kits in it.

Question... my 69 Dart, 360/727 B&M holeshot 2500 converter combo that when it sits, a week or so, the converter will drain. I have to put it in drive and bring the rpm's up to about 1800 (with the brakes on) to pump it back up before it will move. If I don't do this, it will not move...

It's not really hard to do. I can R&R a trans in my garage, by myself in about 5 hours. No lift, just a floor jack and jack stands. Basic hand tools are all I use.

Thanks Fishy. Mine is 2-3/4" center to center. Time to cut and weld it.

Awesome, Thanks!