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Thanks. And if you need an AC hose, they will make you one for less than going to a box store.

Let me tell you what I did. I have a 69 Barracuda with a 340 and PS. About 28 years ago, I was done with the first restoration (I've had the car for going on 35 years) and ready to drive it. Unfortunately, I could not find a PS high pressure hose anywhere. I tried Advance Auto, NAPA and several...

I have wanted to put in an RMS Alterkation front and Streetlynx rear setup in my 69 Barracuda for years, but I just can't force myself to spend the money. The thing I like about their front setup in that there in no shock tower strengthening required. I seem to remember it needed significant...

@72bluNblu has given good advice. Depending on your budget and plans for the car, it may be to your advantage to just repair what needs to be repaired now. That being said, if you have the mechanical expertise to do the work yourself and plan to keep the car for a while, you can never go wrong...

Thanks for letting us know how it came out. Sometimes we are left wondering.

Moog definitely isn't what it used to be. They are made somewhere in Asia now; Malasia I think. Contact @PST. They are sponsors of this forum, they offer members a 10% discount, their parts are probably as good as what you will get anywhere, and the people at PST WILL take good care of you.

I installed the Hotchkis on my 69 Barracuda about 12 years ago. It was an easy one day installation. I had to weld on a few brackets, but the instructions were very good. I am VERY impressed with the Hotchkis sway bar. I noticed a marked difference in handling.

If only cars could talk! Wait a minute; come to think about it, it's probably a good thing they can't. I installed a Hotchkis swaybar on mine. I had to weld the brackets on. It made a big, positive difference.

I see you are a relatively new member. Welcome. I would definitely contact @PST. Like @66fyssh said, they are sponsors on this site and give a FABO discount. I would go a step further and say that if you encountered any problems, PST will stand behind you and make things right. They are great...

@ProjectBazza, you do not need to remove the K member to do a complete front suspension rebuild. I have done it on an A Body several times.

Years ago, I bought new Goodyear tires for my 98 Dakota truck. After a short while, it started pulling hard to the left. First thing I thought of was a tire problem. It had NEVER pulled before. The tire shop tried really hard to sell me all new ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. I had just done...

Thanks. I guess I knew that, but I was just surprised it was so expensive. I have never had springs rebuilt/re-arched, and I had no idea how expensive it was. I assumed it would be cheaper than buying new.

Wow. I would not have expected that. Then why offer the service?

Beautiful dog. I have a miniature dachshund who sleeps with her tongue out like that.

I went to Advance Auto several years ago and bought an A-1 Cardone rebuilt steering box for my 69. It has worked fine. You might still be able to do the same thing; you just won't have a core. But you will save on shipping.

@oka, @RustyRatRod is right. The ball joint does need to be re-installed. As you probably know, the upper ball joint has threads and screws into the UCA (upper control arm). That ball joint looks like it was screwed in at an angle, so something is likely cross threaded. The absolute best-case...

I totally know what you meant. I'm not pimping you. But I bet he finds a LOT of rust.

OK. You asked. Some of it looks kind of OK, and some of it looks cracked (although that could be a shadow caused by a thick weld bead sticking up). All of the welding looks rough. I do a lot of rust repair and welding. I am kind of anal when doing repairs like that. I always grind the welds down...

Inquiring minds want to know. I have a newer car with electric PS, and it works flawlessly. The PS in my 69 is a little sloppy and that is with a completely rebuilt front end and a rebuilt steering box. I would be interested. I hope @superchargeddrt posts some more information and pictures.

Very nice. Nowhere to go but up.

@PST is a member and a FABO vendor. They give a discount to FABO members. I am sure Bergman Autocraft has good stuff, but I can personally vouch for the prices, service before and after the sale and quality of their parts.

Dude, don't worry. That is not NEARLY as stupid as some of the knuckleheaded things I have done. But the good news is that once you learn something the hard way, it sinks in real good. One time, when doing a brake job on a 65 Corvette, I slipped the pads in backwards so that the metal backing...

I agree with you. I'd also say that Moog has been garbage for several years. They moved production to Asia at least, I think, 7 years ago.

I don't see those cracks coming back unless you try some General Lee jumps. Great work. You should include some text and make it a How To article.

Great work, @Nick Mailloux . Quite impressive. Stop drilling the cracks is an excellent idea that a lot of people don't think about. I do have one question. In picture #5, I see what looks like the sleeve from #4 set into place. Are the pieces I see in pictures 6 & 7 the same parts as in 4 & 5...

I agree that when all is done, they drive pretty well, but a 50 year old car will never drive as nicely as a modern car with modern suspension and rack and pinion steering. As long as you accept this, you will be fine. I know some will disagree with this, but you can't argue that modern rack and...

Absolute GENIUS. I never thought to do that.

Also, FWIW, there is a place here called Industrial Chrome with a big oven that gets really hot and parts like a K member will come out with all grease, grime and paint gone (inside and out); having turned to ash. They are always willing to take on a part like a K member with the understanding...

First of all, great job. There are lots of ways to paint it, just make sure you use a good quality paint. Second, thank you VERY MUCH for following up and sharing with us what you did. It doesn't happen often enough. It is always nice to see someone ask a question, get lots of responses, digest...

I assume you took ALL load off the T bar. Did you by any chance try pushing down on the control arm while trying to remove. That will help get rid of any side load. It has always worked for me in the past.