Search results for query: *

Yes

For final finish, I make little "booties" with pieces of "scotchbrite" pads and a staple, slips over the stones, and smoothes the surface to aid seating, Saves buying a different set of extra fine stones, jmo Standard procedure in my shops, dozens of times, by misc mechanics . Cheers

I haven't been following, cuz my mind was set about 4 posts in. I hope somewhere it was mentioned the owner should be told, and the decision should be his . jmo.

Thnx for the pix .

I'd appreciate seeing that, thank-you .

I believe the marine and industrial heads have extra cooling to the spark plugs and ex valve area. I know this to be true on the big blocks, there are extra holes on the lower edge of the gskts and heads . If there were no holes in the block and/or head, the holes in the gasket wouldn't matter ? ?

Hence the ratchet strap . But first I encourage you put everything on. Everytime you install something, you seem to need to adjust. Put it all in, and adjust once ,maybe twice. I usually install headers very last, I often find something simple like shifting the trans mount over/up a tad, gains...

If you're using biscuit mounts, the 69 - 318 van mounts are a little thicker than the car, and you could use those insteada washers . . . or not. Good job .

Seems to me I found a 90* fitting to screw into the pump fitting, and another (45*??) for the top of the box, and a straight fabbed hose fit. Too many years ago.

I don't know if the Doug's have gotten better, - they were always pretty good, but I haven't had to ding a tube in quite a few sets, and ratchet straps around the trans/T-bar. and fence posts up the collector can be helpful for that final clearance .

I'd get it in the vehicle, trans mounted, then loosen the fasteners everywhere, and shift the motor/trans as mentioned in many previous posts, - before I put a single ding in the header. Good luck.

I'm very sorry. I didn't intend to target that response at you, I meant a general response and edited it.

When you drop a slice of toast and jam, which side lands up most often .

Are those new heads, guides ? My audio isn't that good, to me it sounded like sticking valve, cuz I think I'm hearing a "snap". May just be my speakers . Stethoscope the valve covers if it is a snap. Good luck jmo

Generally most folk after header install, open, reported 2 to 4 tenths better, with tune, not always, but generally amongst breeds, street machines. Extension had different effects on diff size engines .

Thnx Mike, I suspected the mufflers but clarifying for others . I was able to watch you guys on CCTV, but didnt see the end, after those cars got stuck in the sand, lol Next time, I'll bring some stuff to mess around, and I got an 830 dbl pump to try.

Another thing is they run with full exhaust, crinkle bend 2 1/2" pipes to the back. I encouraged they open them up, but . . Then we can go from there, baseline. I just spent too much time roundy-round. This yr dragstrip.

Absolutely. If I'd known he was gonna spray it, I woulda opened the ring gap a little. I shoulda expected it tho, the pair of them are just like me. I already got a stroker in the works for the other one, now this one's gotta catch up . lol Not far from the tree . Cheers.

As mentioned, they just need practice. 99% of their launches are on the street. Put them on a sticky track, side stepping the clutch at 3500, resulting in breakage, bog, missed shifts, red lite, yep, lol They need guidance, and they're getting that now . lol

Thanks folks, These trips to the track with street tires and 3.55 are few and far between. I don't have much experience with nitrous, so letting those that know give guidance. Mikes a quick learner, and eager for knowledge. The cars plant, launch really well, - till we put decent gearsets in...

The exhaust gases are an extinguisher, there should be no unburned fuel nor oxygen in there. When the exhaust leaves the valve, it exits into high heat hell. Hence the question how can it pop without oxygen, it must be sucking in somewhere. I often get someone to plug the tailpipes with a lotta...

Do you have an exhaust or header leak, if so, fix it, and the pop will likely disappear. Cheers

There was someone here promoted a lifter that was slow to pump, and for some reason to add or delete duration, I never did understand . "Rhoads" lifters or similar, is it possible these could be those ? Could just be lifters . jmo

Are you running synthetic oil, if so try dino oil, 10/40 or in Ca. summer 20/50. Good luck

We have history, he's on ignore for a reason . Talk about feeling a hypocrite.

Well . . After looking in my fsm, scouring the internet, then walked to my shop and checked my valve grind pilots, I came back up to the house , kicking my ***, ears burning, - phone my machinist pal and told him this story, and asked if Mopar ever had 11/32 valve stems? He laughed his *** off...

You continue to demonstrate your ignorance and stupidity. My 69 340 from the factory for one, idiot. Try Google or Bing before shooting your mouth off. https://www.bing.com/search?q=what%20year%20mopar%20had%2011%2F32%20valve%20stems&pc=MOZB&form=MOZMBA

I'm not sure the same seal fits both valve stem sizes. When 11/32 guide wore out, lotta folks moved up to 3/8, was a natural, no new guide needed. So it's conceivable you need 2 valve stem size seals and 2 seal guide sizes. Possibly 4 diff seals. You need to look a little further to see if seal...

Hi, kinda figured that. The guides coulda been machined for either seal, prob. but not nec the .500, but unknown. Take both, return what you don't use.

Early one's 11/32, later 3/8.