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We generally upped the thermostat to a 195*, gave warmer air outta heater. Hence the " summer/winter" thermostats I remember as a kid. Cheers

There are misc on/off temps for fan switches. Use them on racecar. Selection here. I use one comes on 200, off 160 ish Good luck...

Check the heater hose clamps are tight, they can send a fine spray in the most unbelievable directions, and thru the firewall .

Lotta damage is electrolysis. When we checked antifreeze, looking for "clean and green, good to -35* ", - we'd also check PH and often give the coolant a little ph + or - when nec. Simple litmus paper test, or "ph" pen . (Swimming pool chems) When a car blows a head gasket, the coolant can get...

May I respectfully suggest you actually get a coolant temperature. Get the engine up to 'running" temp, if you have a heat gun, shoot the top rad hose temp. If you need to go borrow the wife's/neighbors meat probe, same think, stick it into coolant at rad cap. The coolant temp needs to be +160*...

Very, very nice rides, I do beg to differ with the hoses sucking closed, as thru the decades of experience, I have actually seen it occur, but most folks don't look at the bottom rad hose, if it can be seen, and don't look at it when revving at hiway speed. I've literally seen a few hoses suck...

Just trying to get something substantive to start process of elimination. Is it really hot, does the rad shed sufficient heat, is the rad plugged with bugs, does it have a partial plugged core, bottom hose sucks shut closed on high rpm, - stuff like that . lol If the rad is shedding 100* and...

We have to get over 135 posts for this to be a valid thread, like the others .

Rad temps, top hose fitting, bottom fitting . Then go check same on one of your other cars .

If nec. It looks like a common plumbing ball valve could be adapted to the pod, or even as a temp on/off .

I would encourage you to review some of the "overheat" threads, I'm fairly sure that fan assembly made it to the "frisbee" across the backyard list . Lotta bucks as I remember, didn't fly worth a chit either . IIRC Good luck .

Thank-you very much .

Again, note the hose is not the place to shoot the temps. Good work Dana, great pix, I coulda used those a decade + ago. OP good job on original pic, thnx Cheers.

OP. Could you post a similar pic from the front please? If possibly, could you go shoot a similar pic from either front or back of any other vehicles you have access to, see if you can reach a conclusion. A post here might be nice, thank-you.

Wrong . If the tubes weren't blocked,- I would expect the center tubes to be hot at the top, and getting progressively cooler towards the bottom, - if they were flowing any hot coolant, - wouldn't you ?

Pic says it all . There's partial to total blockage of the tubes in the middle, the hot coolant is doing it's best to pass whatever coolant it can down thru the few tubes on the sides. If you drag your knuckles across the rad, the center tubes would be cool compared to the outer tubes. Looking...

The last Jag fan I saw, used a far different "fan" than Mopar . Lotta folks look, don't measure, only to find they "just" fit, after dozens of posts . My son's is 1/4 inch away, trans mount is captured, engine won't shift far forward . ( 8 yrs. of spirited driving) Good luck...

Here's an old thread how to shorten an alum pump, to replace the cast pump, to be able to the same rad outlet. I often just move the rad outlet to the other side. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-short-nose-water-pump.141/

There are clutch fans that have different degrees of slippage at temp, and "free-wheel" at speed/temp. and don't spin over 4000 rpm, so they don't rob as much power as some would have you believe . @AJ/FormS has a buncha info, he likes Ford clutches, think they are short, and visibly similar.

The way I read it, he's going to run a fan/alt/water pump belt on the inner groove, with the outer belt as shown, or did I read wrong ? Bottom pulleys equal size . Water pump is merely an idler/guide for the outer belt.

When hot, - Shoot the temps of the upper and lower rad fittings, not hoses. You need 30* min, 50* or better drop in temp from top/bottom. If there's little drop, - Shoot temps across rad, half way down. Cool areas are plugged tubes, not flowing coolant, the bigger the cool area, the bigger the...

Thanks for reporting the results. Curious about the up and down hose temps now. Hope you get lotsa miles, and lotsa smiles . Cheers

If you rev that engine and watch the fan blades, they will actually flex forward towards the rad, reducing the distance more with higher rpm . The motor won't move much, as the rear mount is captured by the rear crossmember . My son's clutch is about 1/4 inch from the rad, he's a very spirited...

I apologize, I missed the upper/lower rad temps . You appear to be getting only 15* of temp drop thru your rad, that might be enuff for a garden tractor . lol If you take the temp gun, and shoot all across the rad, about halfway down, you will likely find cool/cold areas, those are plugged tubes...

It is not uncommon for there to be a surge of water out the top as the thermostat opens, it'll puke some then, the coolant will then settle to about an inch or so below top, and circulation should be visible from the opening . The other overheat thread currently running has just had his plugged...

Do yourself a favor, and go out to your reg vehicle when hot, or a neighbor/friend, and shoot the temps on the upper and lower hoses on it, for a reference .

Lost my first hemi that way, unexpected flash freeze .

I know mosta you folks know this, someone may not - - - Please lift and cover any containers with coolant. Animals that ingest coolant die a very cruel, painful death, including blindness, organ failure. This includes spillage that thirsty birds, and all living creatures need. Thank-you .

Perhaps "search" overheat in the cooling section, there are dozens of threads every year on the issue .

Depends on your water source . Well water can be full of disolved minerals and salts that promote electrolysis and solid accumulations. Some of the eaten out alum manifold, timing covers have severe material loss/crystalization...