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Probably 90% of my " no start" service calls were Dead battery or "bad terminal" connections .

"Rap test" the new small starters often shatters the ceramic magnets.

Clean the battery terminals and connectors .

Post a pic, there's often differences in export cars, we have folks around the world here. Lots from down under too.

Yep, my memory definitely failed me there, shoulda thought it thru . Thank-you

I want to say cuz the resistor by-pass isn't working, but then realize my international traits are showing. lol I'm trying to remember why we always carried a spare resistor in the glove box, I'm just too old. Please refresh my memory, thanks .

I'd just find a condenser. 1 microfarad. The basic suppressor for the ignition system is a 1 mfd suppressor. Attach it to the LT or positive (+) terminal of the coil on the ignition switch side. There are two types of suppressor connected in different ways, depending on whether your set has AM...

I would expect specific instructions for Mopar, ign 1 & ign 2 ? Check the fine print. Just spitballing

The 2 commonest intermittent no-starts for service call. 1 - Dead battery or dirty Battery connection, - particularly the black deposit on the positive battery cable end. 2 - the stud and contact package in the starter solenoid, or less often worn brushes. (Replace starter these days). All I...

Headlite dimming at idle is normal, - 3500 rpm at 70 mph is normal. New cars with improved electronics and overdrives have totally screwed up people's expectations. I'm not concerned about my long range vision while at a stop light. Can't imagine some folk with a Model A . lol jmo

The average life of a lead-acid battery is 5 - 7 years. If buying a new battery, always chose a battery with equal electrolyte levels. (White case) Uneven levels already has the battery on its way out .

With no magnetism, it indicates the field circuit is faulty. Could be reg. If it had magnetism, then the reg is working, and the issue is at the alternator The test was never meant to test output, but to quickly determine which item to buy on the way home, after you had to get a jump start at...

A quick easy test to figure out what's wrong, which bay and whose working on it.

What if there were no magnetic field. What would that tell you ?

Coupla things. The jobber was right, you can't get an accurate test on a dead battery, it needs to be fully charged before testing, and I'm not sure if a trickle charger could charge a dead battery sufficiently. They may have wanted to "charge" it properly first, we would. Hydrometer test prob...

Good conclusion. I wouldn't be buying a regulator on the way home, I agree it's likely the rectifier, if it's not charging, or something inside the alt,. "output" side. A voltage reading would be nice. Running should be 13.8 - 14.2 ish . (The rotor/pulley needs to be turning to sense/test the...

Turn key on, don't start. Take ferous metal object (screwdriver/wrench), place in front of alternator pulley if shroud will allow, or back of alt, but don't touch any wires. If you have a strong magnetic pull the object to the alternator, that indicates the brushes, rotor, voltage reg., and...

Have a bank of condensers, each timed to fire consecutively, 1 coil, x# condensers, spark lasts a full revolution.

I had read that, but just bringing attn to a melted plug, which could ground to switch body, so if removed from ground by screws . .

Did you scrutinize the floor switch plug ? They often melt and may distort, perhaps unscrew and lift it from floor.

It'd backfeed thru the flasher unit, so intermitant radio etc.

Well done . true hot-rodder .

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ . . . This ! !

Did you turn the cam till the rubbing block is on a high point ? That rubbing block does look short.

I found that messing with depth made a difference of one sort or another, ended up using a Holley power valve gasket to space switch out ?

After reading the last paragraph a coupla times, I think you are really close, but contacted 2 maybe wrong things. Try vise- gripping one end of jumper to the trunk lock striker, the other end to the actual bulb base, after you pull the socket outta the housing. If it works as it should, repair...

If/when you get new switch, plug it in and check it, before you install it, to make sure it works, and to double check your diagnostic.

Glad you got it repaired, - you can stroke the wire strands with a wire brush to make better contact. I think near 80%+ of my "no-start" service calls over 30+ years, was poor battery connection from lack of attention, or lights left on. Good job .

It sends a pulse of electricity down the line, you follow the harness with the meter, each pulse, - the needle will move, when you lose the pulse on the meter, - the shorted wire either branched off, or you just passed the short .

Jmo, if it were mine, I'd replace it cuz of all the things you can't see. If absolutely nec. You could clean all those contacts for temporary use. If nec, after cleaning, hook it up under dash, hold it in your hand, turn everything on, hi-beam too, for a few mins, - feel for heat. The rheostat...