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Tag or label it "no oil" till you fill it. Never know who, when, where it'll end up. Trust me .

They are "self tapping" screws outta my bins, not sure the size, take the replacement seal with you to help decide, thin, and sharp.

I've never tried to blow the seal out after seeing one blow fluid around the shop, making a mess, but of course you'd prob contain the area with a baggie. I often use the "woodscrew" method, cuz once you get the seal out, you can see that the screw butts into the huge cast iron boss in the...

Did it do it before you put the spacer on? If not, look there .

Then add 6* caster, lol

I think you'll find 1/8 to be adequate, if not, you can elongate the bottom idler pivot bolt hole slightly to gain a little clearance. Then weld an appropriate flat washer to the bottom bracket to secure the hole/washer in place. Hope that makes sense . Assuming you trimmed idler ball stud and...

I'm curious if some of you folks that change over to big caster - If you kept track of fuel mileage before the change, then track it after, - cuz everytime you move the steering wheel, caster lifts one side of the car, - that's gonna use more power, even down a straight road, little tweek...

Good job. Parasitic loss, in many areas, - that's where I was headed .

Seems to me, I was taught that the idler inner and outer barrels were fused, as we're some control arm bushings. The thru bolt wasn't to be tightened till all work and alignment were complete, or could cause a "pull". At that time caster was 0 to -1*. So the idler was more important returning...

This is what I was suggesting with big caster . Toe in will kinda be arbitrary, depending on where on the tire you measure the toe . 1/2 way up the wheel, - 90* from a kingpin, at the spindle, or the tire contact area. Just promoting thought . Thnx

Shouldn't toe be taken at 90* to the kingpin, thus +6(?)* Off horizontal, - up in the fenderwell front, - down on the ground behind the wheel ?

I just gotta throw this out there, I think I know, lol Where/how do you measure toe-in @ 6+* caster ?

I just love the way Blu does that, I open a door, he bursts right in and fills the void with his tech and minutiae, then leaves supporting my point. Big caster causes heavy steering in traffic and parking lots, which may be challenging for small folks who aren't expecting it . You don't need a...

Factory settings were "0" to minus "1", ( think front wheel of shopping buggy flopping around) - so any pos caster is going to give better directional stability I just don't get this wheel "slamming" back to center . On a long race/drive, no power, that's fatiguing Coast road without power...

I'm curious at what point you think there is too much caster ? There has to be a "too much caster", how much is that, and what is the symptom ? When stuff never meant to take the stresses bend/flex and break, tire wear ?

https://www.bigblockdart.com/threads/steering-box-info.45860/ Click the " see more" Cheers

Yep, as usual, right on, thank-you.

If you're going to this trouble, we just chopsawed the end of the control arm off, weld a flat plate with a 4 bolt chev ball joint thru it. Support and gusset as nec. It'll look fabbed, be strong as hell, and ball joint attitude/location is totally up to you. Just saying, - that's what we did a...

Building super stocks and super modifiers, we were limited by rule to using stock control arms, but made no mention of "altered". We were using Camaro clips, and butchered the control arms something fierce, then crashed em, not by choice, to "test" it. Chop and weld away, all's good. Cadillac...

Nice work, good job . I used to grind the stop off, run a die down as nec, then just run 2 nuts and a tube spacer inside the rubbers/washers.. Totally adjustable for free. Way back

The front wheels on a shopping buggy have negative caster, you've seen how straight they track .

Ask your alignment guy if he can get a little more caster while he's there, Here's a chart for modern tires, it looks like he's heading that way, or perhaps even aware, cuz factory caster was 0* to -1*.

Did you happen to get a printout from the alignment shop, usually has before/after #s. That'd help determine if they're using the old factory specs, or modern radial tire specs . Did you get the strut rod hardware ( washers/bushings) on the way it came off, should be same as the drivers side...

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-31001-Shock-Bolt/dp/B000COB5BM#immersive-view_1704761237834?tag=fabo03-20

Slightly loosen, gently tap to find "center", it should move both front or back, - you "find" center . Doesn't take much movement.

There are misc versions of that fitting to accommodate .... The "boxes" are pretty much the same. Any foam will settle out overnight. Good for you .

Jack up the front of the car till front wheels are off the ground.. There's two bolts holding the fitting that's on the top power steering box, where hose goes on, theyre 7/16.. just slightly loosen those bolts, start engine, DON'T PUT YOUR ARM THRU THE WHEEL, INJURY MAY OCCUR ! - and gently...

You'd never make flat rate, fairly large deduct for that poor sucker. In this case it's a used, charged system, in for a box adjust and fluid fill, not a new empty system/pump ?

DO NOT PUT YOUR ARM THRU THE STEERING WHEEL TO START ENGINE, SERIOUS INJURY MAY RESULT . Front wheels off the ground . Engine running, with the top fitting bolts slightly loose, gently tap the top fitting either towards the front, or back, ( this is the adjustment) until correct, the steering...

Stops it coming apart , - and knocking that nasty top off .