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Why not pick up a 8.8 rear end out Ford explorer, weld some perches on and go. Another plus is they have disk brakes on them.

I used steel plate to move mine back for tire clearance.

I moved mine back 1/2" and still got a full nut on the studs.

I run Viking DA's on both ends of my Dart (no coil over). good shocks for the money and great people to deal with.

Very nice work Junior.

Very nice looking ride! What's it run in the 1/8?

Good deal!

I have heard several people say the Calvert 90/10 is too loose, I've never ran them though. I have been in the high 1.30's on Competition Engineering 3 way adjustables and Rancho 9 ways. That being said I have replaced the Ranchos with Viking double adjustables and will replace the fronts with...

You need a better shock. The last time I tried low air pressure in a smaller slick I got a good look at the wall out of the windshield at about 500' out.

What shocks are you running, settings? What hole are the bars in? Front shocks, settings? Try slowing the front end down, stiffen the extension on the rear shocks and the bars in the bottom hole.

Look at the bolt pattern, they'll only go on one way.

'67-72 A-Body Products

Make sure the brake kit you use will work with tapered bearings.

Call Calvert, their customer support is great.

Not really, only one tube on each side go through the fenderwell.

Using dukeboy_318's measurements my Hedman Husler race headers will not clear the rack. It looks like tubular control arms and adjustable strut rods are in my future. The offending tube.

Thank you sir.

Surely someone has this set up sitting the garage.

The seals, not the heim ends.

If you go the SS route buy Mancini racings springs. Better quality than MP.

Anyone?

Crackedback is right about measuring with weight on the axle. If everything is else is in the factory location a factory length shaft should be fine. I moved the rear end back 1/2" on my Dart and ran a factory length shaft with no problems. As far as the rear end moving back and forth in...

I have a header tube going down in that area and wanted to know where the tie rod/rack was in relation to one of the factory bolts in the k member. 69 Dart.

I need a measurement on the drivers side from either the front frame bolt or rear frame bolt center to the rack or tie rod end where it passes under the factory frame rail. Thanks.

I wouldn't fix that K member. My experience with welding stress cracks is that cracks will come back next to the welds. If it was a rare piece maybe, but run of the mill K members are easily found.

The old Motors repair manuals had where to measure and what the measurements should be. Of course this is for a factory ride height and tire size.

^^ This ^^

Nothing to tell really, I leave mine set up like I run it at the strip. It drives and handles no different than any other car with stock suspension car I've had. My car also has a spool, the only time I can tell it's there is making a slow tight turn, like in a parking lot.

If you're building a car for handling curves you are looking at the wrong suspension anyway. For the street/strip car, no problems. I've been driving mine for 12 or 13 years and haveen't noticed any ill effects.

They have no effect on how the car turns.