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That is shocking... :eek:

Acme....

If you replace the gear box, I would recommend getting a new or rebuilt unit... You wouldn't want to replace it with an old worn out one and have sloppy seconds... :eek:

That's what she said... :)

The right side one will have more leaves, more arch, or be a little stiffer....

6 5/8" long: Mancini Racing - Restoration Axle U-Bolt Pkg 7 1/8" long: Mancini Racing - Restoration Axle U-Bolt Pkg

Those are leaf springs...

Put on some Big-boy pants and take it like a grown-up....

How do you make a hormone??? Don't pay her.... :D

So it's ok for you to do it to others but when someone does it to you, you get your panties in a bunch??? :drama: How does it feel to get a taste of your own medicine???

No, you don't have to swap the springs, but the slant 6 springs are softer than the v-8 ones... It would be a good idea to upgrade eventually....

That's a bold question to ask... Nunya beeswax...

There are two potential issues that you may run into, but they are not hard to work through.... 1. If your car was originally a slant 6 car, the front bolt on the spring hanger is one size smaller... If my old mind can remember correctly, the slant 6 had 9/16" diameter bolts for the front...

I interchanged a 70 Dart steering column in my son's 71 Valiant when he lost his key... It worked...

The pinion snubber snubs the opinions of others...

I always chase my threads with a tap or die and then torque to spec... It makes things go together much easier and they stay together.... :thumbsup: Get yourself a good tap and die kit and use the **** out of it... No Craftsman taps or dies, they break too easy... I've had a nice...

Heat the strut rod area with a propane torch, put the nut on the end of the threads so you don't damage the threads, then pound on the nut to break the strut rod loose....

Is the pivot and bushing properly seated in the LCA???? Compare the left side to the right and see if there is any difference....

7 1/4" axles are the weak-suck axles ---> garbage... I broke 3 of them in 4 years behind a mild 318 with a 4 bbl... The only thing they are good for is a stock slant 6...

That's what she said.... :D

+2

I believe that the pitmen arm is the same, but you will have to change the coupler on the end of the steering column that goes to the steering box, they are different from P/S to manual steering...

I installed a set of Espo springs for a local member and when we had a couple problems getting them in, she called them and they were there to help and support us... They are a good place to deal with, they even will help after the sale if you need advice...

You get what you pay for...

If you want to raise your Duster the proper way, you should move to a neighborhood with good schools.... :D

Yes, the part number is on the end of the part... However all of the torsion bars are the same color and the part number can look the same as another if you just glance at it quickly... Or the operator gets fatigue and sometimes their eyes can play tricks on them and they see the number...

Yes, but sometimes it helps to put identifiers on parts to help the assembly line operators from picking the wrong part... Doing the same thing on a car gets repetitive and sometimes the operators can miss some things and install the wrong part... The colored paint marks on the torsion bars...

You have to watch when you tighten the rear shackle nuts... The mancini racing shackles WILL NOT TAKE THE TORQUE SPEC'ED IN THE SERVICE MANUAL... You just snug them... If you go too tight, they will break... I recommend getting two sets, so if you break one, you will have the "feel" for when...

I agree too much heat can soften the metal and make it weaker... However cold bending can cause internal stress concentrations that can fatigue and fracture later... I would replace it with another one...