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what shifter are you using now? i like Winters shifters. gated not a ratchet

neat, any idea if it was part of a tow package or something?

it say's what trans came with what engine, and what rear end. call a drive shaft place close to you. ask them how they want it measured. then, if you have a shaft that fits, great. if you have one too long, have them cut it. too short, buy a new one. but you need to make sure what the yokes...

did any A body come from the factory with a 904 and an 8 3/4? i don't think so, so any factory driveshaft fitting is just luck. also, U joint sizes matters. there' s a little room for variation in length but not much

notice the different parts of the country / world the people in some of those threads inhabit. people from way up north and those from the south trying to compare notes. seems that would happen in any cooler then. when you change the fluid you could drop the lines and blow them out

too much power :steering: :thumbsup:

:lol: SECRET DECODER RING

airplane gauge

which ones did you use?

get a second sensor and wire them through a 2 position switch

yup, it's all about getting a clean cut that doesn't collapse the liner

probably not. you running a BB on 10" slicks, yes. street car, i'd take my chances

make sure the shaft you use, and the yokes, are all the same size u-joint

until you have all those parts bolted in the car none of it matters. at minimum you need to install the block, trans housing and rearend with what ever suspension you're going to run. get the car close to finished weight and sitting on the wheels at ride height. then call the driveshaft place...

the question is how much surgery are you up for

what year is your car? Kent's and Fred's are both 73's, mine is a 68', and the freakin' tunnel necked down exactly where it needed to be the widest.

1) install rearend 2) talk to driveshaft shop and see how they want it measured 3) do what they say and live a happy life

park at the far end of the walmart or equivalent's parking lot and pile some old clothes in the car so it looks like you live in it. you could probably get away with a motor swap before someone will roust you

just an option. since it's a complete kit that comes with matching brackets and a new lever it might have saved some searching for the right part

i didn't like the Lokar either, pia to adjust look at the KD Mancini sells

glad you got it sorted out...so how long was the one you bought and how long is the cut one?

print out page two and three of the instructions and you will have the templates they supply. also they are HERE

you can get the install instructions. they have measurements and diagrams HERE & HERE & HERE unless you lower the trans mount, i'm pretty sure you'd need to hack the floor

curious, why not aluminum?

you can gather all the pieces to do a stock floor shifter or get an after market one. the after market ones probably all use a cable instead of linkage. the factory ones are all (as far as i know), used with a center console to cover up the linkage. you can then remove the column shifter handle...

:lol: no allowance for a long holiday, and at least for me work, weekend with too much screen time and not enough real work to do?

uh, ya, why?...what are you talking about? :lol:

funny thing, when i added the 8 3/4, and had the new shaft built, they left it almost 1/4" longer than i asked for. went to install it and couldn't get the U-joint past the rear yoke. realized the rearend was just hanging on the springs, (which is not how i measured it). jacked it up a little...

pretty sure most of us just use a tape measure. so a 1/4" off is probably not uncommon. i would want a 1/4" shorter. i'd rather loose a little spline engagement than have the yoke hammering the back of the trans

so 49 1/4", but just a guess until you measure :D