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funny, considering most of the complaint's about milodon pans are the welds leak...:rolleyes:

could the revision # also be they just needed a new mold? one cracks or is dropped or whatever and it's a replacement #, not necessarily a change

rusty, you got to quit holding back with your true feelings. it's not good to bottle up all that opinion. we're all here for you and want you to learn to express yourself fully... :lol:

you can also try a strap wrench on the dampner

Canton Racing Products 22-575 Canton Racing Oil Filter Plates | Summit Racing

maybe a heat shield? Lava™ Oil Filter Heat Shield

never assume parts from a shop are clean. need to do all the oil galleys and everything else yourself https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CONYTS/?tag=fabo03-20 edit: i see you have brushes :thumbsup:

if they spec a cam from a grinder, and it meets those specs including metallurgy, is that a problem? mine estimated for november. wouldn't actually mind if it slipped a month, but i'll deal with it when ever it shows up, not planning to canceling my order

because every engine, even factory fresh, is never exactly the same as as the one next to it. the factory valves were probably a "best average" type of guess. whether you use one of these or not, there's some interesting info HERE

there's a number of twist in ones ford twist in breather at DuckDuckGo

IF the heads had the combustion side cleaned up to make them flat, or the chambers smaller to raise the compression, the face the intake bolts to may not be at the same angle, so the face of the intake may not lay flat against it. you'll find out the hard way when it sucks oil into the intake...

a couple things. "sprayed" probably means with some kind of light oil to keep from rusting. do you know if the heads were shaved at all? if they had enough taken off of them you're going to want to have some taken off the intake to match. i would have a machine shop go over the heads. make...

might be a little low. every stock mopar i ever owned runs about 5psi at idle when warm, fresh or not. i used to not like it either, finally gave up. how much pressure do you want at idle?

unless you neutral drop it from 4 grand :eek: :lol:

pretty much what @Darter6 did to mine before he sold it to me

here's a performer for $100 [FOR SALE] - Edelbrock Performer Intake

:thankyou:

love the bandsaw mounting, any pics of that?

here and here

and since then i now have scotchloc discs for my grinder :)

manual valve body :D if you are going to have one of them not correct for now, make it the carb linkage. having the kick down lever working right is more important to keeping the trans from killing itself and making the car drive-able. not getting that last little bit of WOT can wait. if the...

ya, holleys never bog :lol: like everyone said, time to learn carb tuning :popcorn: @yellow rose too many windows open?...been there :D

use a razor blade to clean all that out. it's a timing cover, not a bagel :)

notice the magnum cover has no way to mount a fuel pump

i think the cover is different because of the serpentine stuff, and it probably has the same updated seal

remember to install the dampener with the cover a little loose, so it can center itself, before you tighten it down

:lol: me either, guess all my crap is old

YOUR DEPRESSED... it's going to be ~80 here the next couple of days and i'm doing double shifts at work instead of home wrenching. i wish it was cold and raining so i wouldn't care :lol:

very nice.

dang, looks yellow to me, which is awesome. hey Cal, looks like you moved the fuel filler to the top of the 1/4 panel (like i've been meaning to do for 40 years :rolleyes:). any close up pics of the work?