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Cool....... I have already sprayed my hood, trunk and roof. I just though I had better check to ease my mind LOL Thanks Mike

Has anyone used 5 star Xtreme high build 2K DTM primer filler/sealer? This is what my paint salesman recommended as I am fixing to have alot or bare metal. It says it is a hybrid of epoxy and acrylic polymers. It sounds great but is it or is it just hype...

I like it like it is also. Where did you get it at? I was going to run a Barracuda flip top but I think I like that one better. Thanks Mike

I collapsed the shocks on my 75 bumper and welded them up moving the bumper closer to the body. I removed plastic car to bumper piece. I did the front also. Do a search on here as there are a couple of theads showing how to do this. I have an earlier valance pan I'm going to make fit on the rear...

here it is at Year One http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=A from my research for the sport mirror the Charger mirror won't fit. The A body sport mirror will. It is also listed at Year One. It looks like the link takes you to the index so you will have to click on mirrors

Maybe a left handed drill bit?

Here's a link for Spray guns check out the starter kitshttp://www.spraygunworld.com/ Eastwood for the blocks

You can get SEM paint chips sent to you off the net to see how close thier ready made paints are. If not you should be able to find a SEM jobber near you. I would look to see who sent me the paint chips but I'm at work for 3 more weeks.

I do the same as above then use clear fingernail polish to seal it so paint doesn't chip.

Now I just neeed to find the passenger mirror to match my ebay score. I'm not really worried about it though as the "Mighty" Valiant only came with the drivers side mirror anyway. I looked at 12 part Dusters in a buddies collection and none of them had the sport mirrors.

I found the mirrors in chrome for 350.00 a pop. So my evening 71.00 ebay buy for a painted remote drivers side mirror wasn't bad I guess.

The mirrors look great. Where did you score them? I'd like to get a set if possible. Thanks Mike

I'm detailing out my tail lights and grabbed some Mothers plastic polish. Man does this stuff work. I tried taking a picture but the flash made them both shiny. I just thought I would let you guys/gals know, Now to mask and paint the silver.

I chopped an inch out. I did a quick bolt up it looks pretty good. I'm still deciding if I want to go another 1/4" or not. I will bolt it all back together in the morn and decide then.

Well I got the bumper shocks off and a part. It looks like a simple chop of the asorber stud and weld up. It will make it solid any way. I don't suppose anyone out there has the "magic" number to slide it in before welding. Man that bumper is heavy.

I have a 1975 Valiant with the energy asorbing unit bumper. I want to pull bumpers in tighter to body to get rid of the plastic. Whats the trick to shorten the shock? Would it be better just to build new mounts? I don't have the bumper off yet as I'm soaking bolts with knockr loose. I am trying...

Yes pictures would be nice. I'm going to do this to my 75. Thanks Mike

Does this help you any? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=43541

My roomate said my new vinyl top has been delivered. So 8 more days and I'll see it it was worth $304.00. It should be correct pattern, correct color and sewn from the original patterns so we will see.

According to Boyd's Book Of Odd Facts, by LM Boyd :read2:"A Detroit authority says nobody knows why the drivers of red automobiles are more likely to get into wrecks than are the drivers of other color cars. But the accident statistics indicate such to be the case." So it's the red cars that...

It looks like the 2 Chargers behind it are also. Another look and is that a silver PT Cruiser? Do I win the how many silver Mopars can you see contest? LOL

Here's my 75 Valiant The reason I bought it was because of the silver and maroon color. This is my 5th Mopar with that color.

My car just has a little surface rust. The top was mostly gone. I think our dry climate has a lot to do with the no rust. The new vinyl top with proper care will probably outlast me. I plan on putting down epoxy primer before I put it on. Besides a Brougham has to have a vinyl top to add to the...

Here's a picture before I pulled what was left of the top off. It's only money. It will be worth it in the end.

Well I bit the bullet and ordered it. It should be waiting for me at home when I get out of the desert in 3 weeks. I need to redo the filler on the roof seams, sand and prime the rest and install. It will also be new windsheild time.$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I think I'll tell them to stitch it up. They say it will be made from the original patterns. Thanks for the input Mike

I suppose spending the money to get the right top will be the best option. Here's the samples. Does it look good to you? It looks good to me considering the fading factor. The original picture is alot clearer I had to compress it to fit it in here.

They wanted 45.00 per yard just for material. I imagine it would take 5 yards. Hell I have an industrial machine and a mini walker but keeping those seams straight and even would be more than I want to tackle. I've done car seats, bike seats and snowmobile seats but I think this would be best...

It's got to have the vinyl as it's a Brougham LOL. It also sets off the silver. I sent off the best piece for color I could find. There wasn't much there, just the sides when I got it. I haven't talked to anyone local yet. I might have to go to Grand Junction or Salt Lake to find a shop that...