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Looks good. What paint did you end up going with?

If you're going to paint it, use something that's fuel resistant. Otherwise, any gas spill will have it looking like *** in no time.

How about a brazed stud, then use a nut to secure the pump? Could that work?

I've had good luck with Engine Pro sets. I've only been able to get them through engine shops though. https://www.enginepro.com/downloads/newdata/EPG_TimingSets.pdf

Way to out yourself, you of fogey. :rofl:

And to think, when I was just getting into Mopars as a kid, these types of discussions were reserved for the E/B-body crowd. I'd never imagine A-body folks needing a correct exhaust heat shield. Don't forget your roots, guys. :poke: Seriously though, I wonder how many of these are sitting in...

Then quit being such a tightwad. They ain't getting any cheaper.

Is this for 100% gasoline, or E15 mix? Or does it even matter?

Can't beat that.

Good sounding little motor. Maybe I missed it, but what'd it have for oil pressure?

What balancer did you end up going with?

Melling cam #MTD1 seems pretty similar to that Oregon Cam grind. More Information for MELLING MTD1

Roller lifter LA motors used drilled pushrods from the factory. I have a great set of used ones you can have if you'd like.

No

Can you post some photos of them? I'm curious if they're genuine or counterfeit. If they are, that was a nice deal!

Toss it and find another intake.

I called Schneider cams recently. They used to resurface lifters, but don't anymore. According to the gentleman I talked to from Schneider, hylift johnson lifters are pretty good and shouldn't require any type of surface correction.

I've used permatex black, gray, orange (high heat) on LA china walls all with great success. As long as the surfaces are clean and oil free, any rtv product should work fine. Nowadays, I favor the black stuff.

Is that the quote they gave you?

I'd use generic PTFE lines long before I'd use generic rubber lines.

Great photos. Did you have to open up the holes in the rocker shaft for that amount of rocker shaft relocation?

140k or not, I'd assume it's a core and pay accordingly.

It'll still work. It doesn't need to be flat against the balancer. In fact, you just need a couple bolts on opposite sides. Just make sure they're long enough.

Why? What's wrong with that one?

Another good one. Just keep in mine the threads are tapered like TT5.9mag said.

Hey no biggie. We've all gotta start somewhere. Good on you for trying to figure it. Besides the photo above, check out a standard drill chart. a 1/2-14 NPT tap uses a 23/32" drill bit (nearly 3/4") whereas a 3/8-18 NPT uses a 37/64" (about 9/16"). I reference the one on my wall all the time.

Listen to @TT5.9mag . I just measured the RPM manifold that's on my shelf. Trust me. Pipe is measured by ID of the pipe itself, not by the thread dimensions. NPT is measured completely different than standard thread pitch. 5/8" NPT is HUGE.

Incorrect. @forphorty is correct in post #2. The hole on the driver's side is 3/8" NPT. The two on the passenger's side are 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT.

To remind folks of the original question: He's really only asking which one makes more power and torque, and why. Wouldn't an equivalently-prepped set of big block heads perform better than a set of small block heads (regardless if they were both factory cast iron, Edelbrock RPMs...

Hell, I'd be tempted to get the transmission too if it's A518/46RH. It'd be the non-lockup version. I just paid $500 for one from a local Dodge wrecker.