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I had to google that muffler part number because I wasn't familiar with the part number. Is this what you're considering?: If so, it'll be loud as hell and drone like a ****. Probably not the best muffler choice for a street cruiser. Even their website says: Intended for customers who desire...

If you're looking for cheap, it's hard to beat picking up some tubing of your choice and spending the time gluing it together with a trusty welder. That's how I tackled the temporary exhaust on my big block '66 Dart.

If you like sound of Flowmaster 40s but don't care for the famous Flowmaster drone, I'd look into Pypes Street Pro mufflers. They have a very similar sound, but without the drone. They also aren't the cheapest out there, but they do have a lifetime warranty and are sold by a member of this site.

I ran the cheapie Hedman headers on my old 72 Satellite Sebring Plus back in high school and they dragged like a ****. That car was at stock ride height with stock 318 torsion bars. If you go with cheapie headers, I'd at least raise the front end a tad and make sure you've got some stout torsion...

Could you slot the bolt holes to make installation a tad easier?

Shoot, that'll work. Nice job! You might've been able to make more if you only made the flange sections.

The H-pipe should mellow out the tone quite a bit too. Post up a video once they're installed.

Pypes makes a good turbo muffler too that's more mellow than their street pros. Here's a comparison of their muffler designs. Really, it just comes down to personal preference. If you're not looking for anything special, maybe just buy a generic Summit turbo muffler and call it good.

If you like the sound of a chambered muffler like a Flowmaster 40, look into the Pypes Street Pro mufflers. It's a similar sound, minus the loud drone at low RPM (at least on my application). Plus they're stainless, have a lifetime warranty, and are made by a FABO forum member (CCAS) Here's a...

Here's the video I posted right after I made the swap. Honestly, the only reason I swapped was one of the Flowmasters developed a couple rust pinholes. The Pypes mufflers are stainless construction and have a lifetime warranty (I believe). Don't quote me on that though. The biggest difference...

I couldn't be happier with mine. Installing the Pypes Street Pros in my 340 Dart eliminated the drone I previously had with the FM40's that were on it before. I'd give them a call to see what they think. Better yet, shoot a message over to @Ccas . I'm sure he'll help you out.

I wonder how long the piece is just dangling there. Where's the nearest exhaust hanger?

They didn't even feel like de-burring the cut? Geez. This is a great example of why I do everything myself on my cars. Maybe try taking it back and have them fix it.

Lots of ways to skin this cat. When I had those shitty headers on my Duster in high school, I used a 13/16" socket and made a short piece of 3/8" square stock (maybe 1" long?) out of a bolt with an angle grinder. The short 1" square stock slipped into the 3/8" drive of the socket and allowed me...

Since you asked, I've worked for an environmental regulatory agency in California for the last 15 yrs. You can probably guess which one. Needless to say, I correspond with my EPA colleagues on emission-related assignments regularly. That's irrelevant though. As a gearhead in California, I was...

Not true.

I've never had any luck with paper gaskets of any kind. Alternatively, I've never had any leaks with Percy's or Remflex gaskets, so I stick with those. Lately, it's been strictly Remflex on all my junk. A tad pricey, but they're worth it in my opinion.

A ton of guys at my local track only use high temp rtv to seal the headers on their racecars. I've never tried it, but it must work okay if so many people do it.

Yes

Looks great! Do you have any photos of the side of the car from a distance? I'm curious how low the pipes hang where they dip under the subframe connectors.

You mean for the pieces from the exhaust manifolds, back? Flange gaskets, flanges, tubing bends, straight tubing, mufflers, clamps, and hangers were about $175 total. It took quite a bit of time and fabrication work though. If a kit were made for my application, I may have bought it, but no...

Did you buy them from Autozone, or did you have Summit price match? Some folks here have had issues with availability and delays order directly from Autozone.

That looks awesome! Where do the forward hangers mount on the floor?

I just finished making an exhaust system for my BB 66 Dart. For me, the pro was that I could build what I wanted, how I wanted. I guess it was probably cheaper than a premade kit too, but that's not why I made my own. The con was the time it took. Speedway sells 16 gauge exhaust bends at a...

Yep - like anything else, there's a time and a place. Sounds like your application is a good one for a cross over. From past cars I've had, x-pipes had a smoother tone than a straight cross over.

Amen! I've always been a fan of the sound of separate pipes.

I think I remember the conclusion was that 18" was generally the ideal length. Emphasis on "generally."

These are great tips! Your headers look awesome!!! For these logs, I just ended up using my bench vise to squeeze the tube one way, and a big pair of vise grip clamps to square it up the other way. Then a big punch and hammer to make adjustments. It turned out working pretty well. Since I...

For those who have built their own headers, do you weld the inside where the primary enters the header flange, or you weld around the perimeter on the outside, or both?