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Hit it with an impact until it gets to the point of not spinning the shaft, then torque it to spec.

72 would have had the same centerlink regardless of engine. Only the '66 and earlier had different bars for slant six vs. small block.

Here's a nifty trick someone posted on this site a while back to separate upper balljoints.

Is the Borgeson unit a different design all together? How does it eliminate the dead spot in the middle? Or is it just because the internals are brand new? Do they make a manual box as tight as the power steer unit?

Glad to hear it's not just me.

What were the measurable stiffness improvements from your modifications?

You're car is slightly different than my '68. The rails on my '68 are much more vertical than yours, especially as it approaches the outrigger/floor support. I also cut the mounts where the lines are below. This eliminated the slight taper issue. Like I said, it's a lot more vertical on mine...

It's totally splitting hairs, but I was able to get 5/8" by cutting off that small piece of overlapping metal where the rear subframe rail meets up with the piece where the front spring mount bolts to (red arrow below). That was the limiting factor on my '68 - not the rail itself. I also notched...

The delrin bushings don't require grease?

There are different coupler bodies depending on the year. Is yours one of the early versions that's more squared off? If so, the springs in the kits won't work with it.

Some attorney made them throw that in there.

Calvert calls for 65-70 ftlbs for standard 1/2" u-bolts and 100 ftlbs for 9/16" truck u-bolts.

That's pretty badass. Thanks for the update!

What an awesome looking Demon. How do the calvert split mono leafs act on the street?

Are the super stock springs still available? Who's making them these days?

Are the springs new? If so, Calvert may just swap you rear segments. You may want to try giving them a call. They're a pretty stand up company.

Put the 225/60's on the front, get a taller rear tire and standard height rear spring segments. Once they settle, it'll look great.

None of these cars were perfect from the factory. I bet what you've done is more than adequate. Nice work!

There are lots of online conversion calculators available for this.

That seems like a pretty short spring. What are the extended and compressed lengths of shocks?

They're 5/16" pins I believe. The one on the bench off my '66 is 1.115" long, so a 1" or 1-1/8" long pin should work fine.

I guess some folks would say loosen the LCA pivot when adjusting the torsion bar, then tighten it back up when you have them where you want them because you want the LCA bushing to be at it's 'neutral' position at ride height. I question whether loosening up the LCA pivot nut would even allow...

How far from the spring are those u-bolts? The u-bolts should be right up against the spring, but it almost looks like there's a gap between the bolt and spring. Maybe it's just the camera angle. Also, is there something like a washer under the locating pin that may be hanging it up? I'd try...

Dum dum.

I'm curious about this. Does the pivot end of the LCA really move fore/aft to the same extent as the outboard end with rubber strut rod bushings. If the LCA socket is nice and snug in the LCA, I would think the tension of the torsion bar in the LCA socket would keep that end of the LCA pretty...

If that's the case, the maximum tire size will be limited by the stock wheel tub. In a Dart, a 275/60/15 is about the maximum size you can go in a stock wheel tub unless the *** end of the car is sky high. Moving the spring 1/2" inboard would give you the same amount of space as moving them in...

Is the car minitubbed?

What brand sliders did you use? Looks like a few different folks are making them - AFCO, Calvert, Speedway... AFCO Racing 20236S AFCO Racing Leaf Spring Sliders | Summit Racing Speedway Heavy Duty Chrysler Type Leaf Spring Slider Calvert Racing SL-300-CR Calvert Racing Leaf Spring Sliders |...

I hear ya man! I may just have to switch to sliders and call it good. It's a little more of a pain with traditional shackles. I just love how it looks with the sidewall tucked in where it should though. Do you have any photos of your slider install? @-Boosted- - Sorry for the derail. Re. your...

Man, that looks awesome! Do those springs have enough droop in them to pull the wheels/tires without having to unbolt either the front or rear spring hanger? That's the issue I'm running into with my 66 with the 315/60s.