Search results for query: *

I would not expect a shock that was designed to work acceptably on a stock suspension to be anywhere near matched in rate to a very heavy t-bar rate like a 1.14" diameter. The 1.14" bar has a rate that is 50% higher than a 1.03" T-Bar, and around 170% higher than a stock diameter T-Bar. So...

More positive wheel centering force from the car itself, stronger feedback at the wheel, and more straight line stability, at the cost of higher steering force from the driver. These older cars were set with very little caster to make them steerable & maneuverable at low speeds and in parking...

Nice work. Thanks for the before and after pix. Now you need to get some dust and dirt on that suspension!

And looking at the sway bar kit the OP is considering, it won't stop any sideways movement since the vertical links have heim joints at the ends. It'll just reduce the body roll.

Do you mean by 'flexing in and out' that the input shaft is moving/shifting in and out along its axis, i.e., towards or away from the steering wheel? There is some small in and out movement of the worm shaft (input shaft) as part of the normal operation... it is this movement that activates the...

Dukeboy has it right... the leaf suspension is going to move sideways quite a bit during cornering. That is at least half of the problem, if not most of it. How much clearance is there between the tire and body now, when sitting still? Push repeatedly sideways on the rear bumper at a frequency...

Once the different links are tried, any way to move the bar mounts in the K frame forward a bit? That would help with the clearance a bit more.

The reality is that the links do not have to be any more vertical than they are. They transmit the torque loads quite well at an 8-9* angle; the anti-sway force at the ends with the link angle shown is 98.7% of the force if the link is perfectly vertical. As long as the total angle from vertical...

Ok look at your strings at the back tires.... if the string is a bit off of the back tire at the front edge, then it is not a straight line parallel to the car's centerline. It is angled out a bit towards the front. To set tow, I use a bar with a fixed 'tab' about 12-15" long on one end and a...

I like your camber gauge, and glad you switched angle gauges... the ones like you first showed are notorious for repeatability. Did you perchance rotate the wheel 60-90 degrees and repeat the camber check to see if the wheel was true? I assume your car has the not-uncommon wider track width up...

I actually run radial tires on my '62 Dart with caster set at original factory spec. No issues whatsoever with the radials... I grew driving these cars when new, and learned to steer without having the strong wheel centering action of a lot of + positive caster. Folks have become used to the...

OK, roger understood on the 'rust catchers' up there. Very true. Since the front was perhaps damaged and the tires were on there before repairs, then the tire wear patterns cannot be used to judge what is going on at this time. What we need from you is what alignment parameter was not achievable...

OP, it is fairly important to know what was replaced. Were all the bushing replaced" Upper control arm, lower control arm, and strut rod? Worn/damaged parts can make it marginal or impossible to achieve alignment. So can you research and get back to everyone one what was replaced? Did the shop...

Well, please make sure... Maybe someone can chime in... I am going from memory. But with 65 ft lbs of torque on the nut per spec, it is going to lock the center sleeve. When I first ran into that with cars of that era, it did not seem right to me either. But that was the way it worked on...

Maybe so.... If stock, then the bushings steel insert is locked and the rubber distorts to rotate... just like the rubber in the stock lower control arm bushings distorts to rotate. Someone please correct me if I am wrong on that. Where/how does it bind if you do put the spec'd torque on the...

I'd suspect that, or your measurement technique... have you made some sort of caster gauge to use when the car is on the ground, set at ride height? That one is the hardest to make. This ought not to be far out, unless stuff is installed wrong or is bent, etc. What did you do on that boot BTW...

Is the arms bushing sleeve being locked hard in the K-member? It should be, or it will rotate and wear the metal.

Upper control arms swapped L to R? (Never did it so I don't know which way it would move the caster.) Radius rod bushings wrong, installed wrong, or not torqued to pull the LCA's forward far enough? Car sitting on its wheels? (I don't know what caster does as the suspension bumps or droops.) So...

No.... I know better LOL. IIRC: It took me a while to make sure I got it right the 1st time with stock t-bars. It also applied to an '03 Dakota that my son and I worked on; the LCA's had to be pulled waaaay down for proper t-bar clocking; my son did not do that 1st time, and the ride height...

Sorry I can't help with a lug source.... Suggestion: Go to a hardware store or go online and buy a 'thread file' to re-file those 2 that are not so bad. This one might be OK, and may be at Lowes/HD. I don't know where it is made, but an old USA made should be in everyone's special tool box...

It has been done! With stock t-bars, the LCA's have to be dropped down to something like 70 degrees below horizontal to get the t-bars to clock properly; with the stock k-member, you just push the LCA's down to where they jam against the k-member to get the LCA's around the right angle. The...

Yeah I can see what you are thinking.... What gets me about the tie-rod settings is that the driver's side looks close to normal while the passenger side looks waaay out. If you moved them, then it seems like both would be too far extended. Plus look at his 1st and 3rd pix in post #1, which I...

Something looks fishy to me in the t-bar clocking, but I would appreciate if others would look and comment. Look at the position of the t-bar cam in the right LCA in the 3rd pix in post #17. With the LCA at full droop, the cam arm is almost straight out sideways and the adjuster bolt looks to be...

I have not been able to figure out those pix in the 1st post. The last 2 do look like a lot of toe-in, but also looks like some positive camber. That kind of camber issue might be adjustment... I don't think it is waay off like if the early UCA's and later spindles were mixed. Based on the...

I've changed toe dozens of times on various cars, setting on concrete..... jouncing the car a few times makes it settle in to the new toe setting. IMHO, look at his photos again. Tie rod settings and idler angle are way off from what they should be on the passenger side. Driver side tie rod...

FWIW, the OP appears to have the early (1970) pitman arm and idler, and matching draglink. The studs point up. The later '73 type pitman arm and idler and their draglink have the studs pointing down. Not sure what the QA1 is setup for. I know the ball joints/arms are different between early and...

BTW, I use this tool as an angle gauge by taping a bubble level on the arm and setting the edges of the gauge on whatever I want to measure. Tool Experts > Micrometers and Protractors > Protractor - Angle Finder & Bevel - Square Head A bubble level on the arm of the above tool is a lot more...

With the pivots a bit loose, set the car down and check the ride height; adjust torsion bars adjusters until ride height is where it should be With car on ground NOW tighten the pivot bolts Equalize the caster angle on both sides; get them close; use some sort of angle gauge across the UCA and...

That was gonna be one of my next questions..... if the UCA's and spindles are not properly matched, then you'll never be able to get it right. Saw that on a car for sale.... wrong year UCA's vs spindles and the front end was all out of whack. I'll admit I have forgotten a lot of what goes with...

Dumb question..... are the bolts through the new k member to the frame all good and tight, and no slop? As said 3 posts above, for it to do what you describe, means that the LCA is moving around relative to the chassis a LOT; that could occur at 3-4 places: k-member moving, LCA pivot moving, LCA...