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I've seen blue, green, and rose colors on plugs in the past..... always figured it was from additives. IMHO, the above 'lean and hot' reads are getting fooled by the modern fuels. Put an AFR gauge on it, and it will be in the 14-15 range cruising (maybe a tad higher even), which is fine, and...

The wet settgin is what I prefer... I have done the dry with care and the wet ends up being off but the wet level is what the carb really works with..

Alternator bearing whines tends to be higher pitched; power steering whines tend to be more of a growling whine, and are louder when you turn the wheel back and forth. Low PS fluid can cause that. Water pump bearings can occasionally whine; easy to find by shaking the fan an seeing if there is...

You might get by with replacing the solenoid.. the one on top of the starter not on the firewall. But with the age of the car, you can be sure that the grease inside long ago dried up and so the bushings for the shafts can well be all shot, gears a bit chewed, etc. I would disassemble it, and...

Not to beat this to death, but with that 2 part ballast resistor, you have to make sure that the correct halves are connected to the coil and the module. The low resistance half feeds the coil + terminal.

Yes, the Mopar system ballast resistance value is pretty much the lowest around. Putting in an incorrect higher resistance ballast can really cut back the spark energy.

OK I don't have actual measurements on that one but it crosses over to the right application. So it probably is OK. One half should be around 4-5 ohms and the other < 1 ohm. I find plenty of cases where the parts guys at the counter sell folks just any old ballast so I tend to ask. But at this...

Very good on the oil pressure! Possible causes on the idle problems: - A vacuum leak, leaning out the mixture; the choke enrichment when cold cold be covering that condition. Start by checking vacuum hoses for cracks or falling off, etc. - The choke not coming off when the engine warms up and...

Yeah, the seems to be a lot of confusion on the older /6 mounts. Took me a time to find the correct mounts for my '62 B Body. Then there was the old trans mount for the light 3 speed manual that no one has parts for..... I figured what I needed for that on the Shumacher site by looking their pix.

Very good! What are your oil pressures now?

Roger.... still would not hurt to check the rotor alignment and gap in case the wrong NOS part got in there. Something is really eating up your spark and there are only a few places it could be.

It certainly sounds like the spark is getting weakened through the distributor. OP, measure the resistance through all of the spark plug wires and coils wires. A few thousand ohms is fairly normal for most wires; it will be higher for longer wires. Anything near or over 10k ohms ought to be...

You want to go direct to the block if at all possible. (And get it away from the AL housing of the pump.) You might want to put a longer bolt through the pump so the threads stick out of the back enough to put a nut and washer there to ground the lug to the back of the pump housing cast in the...

It may just need to be brought in more slowly, but not necessarily less total. I did not realize that the HEI conversion was with a different distributor. Did you check out the heat range of the 2 plugs? Could be you went to a cooler plug....?

LOL.... probably not a good idea for someone who had a heart attack before (like me)....

Very good. I have not tried the misting thing.... sounds like a way to get shocked LOL

That is a new one for me... an HEI causing pinging. Here is what could be happening: - HEI's create a hotter version of what is called the 'spark kernal' (the initial phase of combustion, from which all the rest of the combustion spreads) - A hotter spark kernal will cause the initial phases of...

Put an analog voltmeter on the + feed to the ignition from your relay and make sure the voltage is not dropping out there. If it is, then look to the ignition switch and the feed to the relay, the relay etc. I'll say it again.... your initial symptom description jives with the key switch...

And nothing says it can't be more than one problem rearing their heads at different times. You are on the right track.... order things as to probability, then be ready to work through each possibility.

That would steer me towards electrical as being more probable due to heat soaking. If it was heat soak of the fuel line, I would expect it to at least sputter when you tried to restart it.

The issue was probably the head. I'd take a chance on not checking the block, but of course, that is just working the probabilities that tend to have the head warp before the block. YMMV If you had a known flat hard block of something (like some granite counter top), that was long enough to...

The numbers I gave you took into account the thicker new head gaskets. Finding a thin, original metal shim type is not easy.

Sounds like he has been in business for some decades and has his equipment paid for. We're fortunate to have two shops like that here and the rates are similarly low, plus long experience is there. (Not that things don't need to be QC'd....)

.050" or .060" are very reasonable. With the thicker aftermarket head gaskets, you will still be .03 to .04" better. You'll feel the change in low and mid range; it'll be about .3-.4 increase in CR. When you get to that point, make sure the timing chain is new and of good quality. With the...

I would also look at the ignition circuit into the engine bay. If you kept a lot of the wiring, then it is feeding both the ignition and the alternator/regulator. The ignition connection dropping out for a moment would cause both problems that you describe. (Why that would happen only at idle...

That call to the machinist sounds encouraging! Let's hope for no cracks and just some warpage. Sure would be nice to get the valves and guides checked and reworked at this point, but it sounds like the old money issue is rearing its ugly head...

Yes, you might get away with .004" or .005" warpage, but not .039". Heck the original head gasket was only .022" thick! So I am not sure where the .039" max warpage came from. Maybe .0039" ? The .381 is .381 mm, which is the metric conversion from .015"; the OP appears to have a set of feelers...

I have no idea if the coating will do anything to reduce detonation here, but I am rather dubious. There is a lot more to it than just hot surfaces. The chamber here is kinda spread out and not closed, and that slows the combustion process. Slowing combustion tends to increase the likelihood of...

'No retorque' means you don't HAVE to retorque them, but it should not hurt to do so. The fact that you had coolant leakage that stopped after the re-torque says there was something wrong in the initial head installation. Did you use a known-good torque wrench, and did you follow the proper...

Your tires are too wide LOL. Very nice.. I am jealous. Which size /6 do you have? Let us know what you find when you see the AFR. Being lean on this low compression thing is not all that bad, and I find that plug readings with this new-fangled gas is a whole 'nother deal from it used to be. I...