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The same guys that won't tell you the rear window channel and trunk support as the other body stamped VIN locations? :rofl: :realcrazy:

I think the loop stands up the best and get a backer, really reduces road noises and insulates. My backer was like a pliable linoleum and conformed right to the irregular floor. weighed about 15 lbs.

I bought a loop carpet kit for my 65 and found an NOS rubber deadener for it too. The deadener weighed 40 lbs in its rolled shipping container and laid in nicely, it was almost an asphalt on a backer. layed out smooth and conformed to floor, It helped immensly with road noise and floorboard...

Once again...THIS JOB SUCKS! Got the new one in after soccer got cancelled today. Few more tips. There are 2 bolts holding the rear track in, make sure you get both and NOT the rounded bolt under the hinge, That is not for the track. If you decide to do this without removing the window (some...

@royslead I could not remove the exterior fascia piece so the glass had to stay in. That was my issue. Once the track lined up with the existing window (20 minutes of trying) it was able to pivot in and bolt down. Still a PITA. I left the 2 panels apart (the 3 square keys are not meshed) as it...

No muff too tuff! :icon_fU: Total time to removal minus the snap on inner door: 30 minutes! (The key is those 2 frigging bolts inside door at rear that I missed) I didn't have to remove outside fascia, I just lowered rear and rotated up the front and it cane right out with track and all. >>>>...

better video.....I missed 2 bolts! He also said there was a release tab (@ 10:24) for the 3 keyways to seperate the frame and the latch plate. looks like you can release it from the front by pushing the rear plate in 3 mm right above the central push connector next to the front window lift rail...

Is the buzzing the gear stripping or hitting a stop internally? If that is the case I know how that happened....:BangHead:

well F me then. Ill be ready for the day. The "asian mechanic" youtube link I put up said there was one more bolt I never got to, inside the door at the rear under the latch but inboard facing. Maybe that is the F'r that stopped me cold? I got an idea on how its disassembled so Im game for...

This door has no glass or power lift like mine had, but you see the complexity of this stupid sliding door!

Note the square keyways that the sub panel fit into. The actuator is the thing with the 2 green paint dots. The inner door panel should just slide back and unhook from these keyways and then lift free (cables still somewhat attached but manageable) but I beat on mine with a hammer and they would...

Another job that sucks. 2012 Dodge Caravan sliding door lock actuator. the damn mechanical lock lever jammed in the locked position on a manual sliding door. You gotta take the inner door mechanism out to get the friggin door OPEN and then you can somehow replace the power door lock actuator...

The tip can be staked on whatever cable you have. The Universal ones include the tip and useless stamped stake tool. HINT: Put the useless stake took in a vice on the lower side, put cable into tip and put snug vice grips across the 2 sides, then strike with the hammer. If not the tools sides...

Even some jute or light insulation up there does alot for sound deadening.. totally worth it while your in there.

be careful with seat covers, if they are used for a while, they can rough up your original vinyl seat when sand and grit gets under seat cover and slides over the originals. Mexican blankets work great and are cheap and are easily removed and shaken out. Bucket seat covers suck, as soon as yu...

what year? There are repops of a few dashes available. If its not "vacuum deposition" chrome plated plastic, its not chromed plastic. My father in law used to work at Revell models in LA (!) in the 70's and said they plated a bunch of plastic things in the 'vessel'

I may try something like that. Fill the cracks, sand....spray adhesive and pull some warm pleather over and clamp until dry, trim and pray.....

You lost me.....Where is this piece? Ok ok.I looked on mine and I only see the large base trim. I assume the smaller ones go outboard of the dash pad maybe?

Can check my survivor in about 40 minutes....

4 door hardtop...

Yes, I remember cleaning the Dusters back seats, push them back with your knees and lift the rears up past the backings. They will **** up and out. Then you can find all the loose "beer money" change..or worse..gas money!

I've uses some black fuzzy interior carpet roll from pep boys to recover the powdered closed loop nylon OEM stuff. Worked great. Glued down, cuts easily. Seats? Those are a little different

my 1 (of 2) roommates left a bag of mushrooms in the fridge and they went bad. stunk up the fridge bad so we put them in her car under her seat. OMG that car stunk for a week before she asked me to see if i could find the dead animal in her car. i reached under the seat and grabbed the baggy and...

try a clay bar and a little watered down dishwater.

65 had a section in the middle that was inset...i found some old remodel pics of the factory (?) dashpad on my 65. this car was very original when i bought it. Rob. for what they cost, i'd pass. Everything else in the car is hard painted metal. OP's repo looks correct except the very exaggerated...

Yes, its just a few (drilled) holes that this bolts into and covers the bullnose steel dash edge.

What model AM/FM will fit a 65 Dart/Valiant 2 window bezel?

Let someone else design them, you just need to hit every weld point with an actual weld. Everything I buy second had hits the bench before I attempt to use it. Been taking stuff apart for fun since I was 5 and almost everything I buy second hand is jacked up somewhere...that's how I get 'em so...

I bought a carpet kit on craigslist that came with a 30 lb roll of like a tar paper that was form cut to the carpet. Not sure who it came from but it was very good at damping road noise inside once I put it in. It sort of formed to the floor once I put it in as it was pliable. The silver stuff...