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Man, that is just wrong! I worked at Circuit City many moons ago and a guy returned a higher end Sony receiver. I opened the 'sealed' box and it was a cinder block. I looked back at him and he very agitated now and was yelling "it was a gift!". I suggest you take this back to the person that...

Summit...$56.99. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-123-63044

Disk always has a larger reservoir as the caliper pistons displace more fluid that the drum brakes. I don't know why the MC has anything to do with proportioning. Usually the prop valve directly applies pressure to one side and has a tight spring that moves with pressure to delay uncovering the...

2 more wheels that can squeak during braking! I see no return of investment on rear disks.

yeah, it looks as if it goes on the spring to center it in bore and prevent contact with wall. See if it fits like that, teeth facing the front spring, first part back into the bore.

DOT 3 will absorb water but not to the extent of jelling. It could be packing grease.

I think that retainer goes behind the spring like a seat. Does it fit like that? The front one looks like that from here

just beat the F out of the back edge of the drum. Its probably wasted anyway. The middle hub is not captive, the drum slips over it very closely as these are hubcentric rims. if you end up cocking the shoes, you can use a screwdriver to bang them back parallel. If all else fails with the cocked...

I cut old fittings off an make then "&" shaped. Mount the MC in the car, attach these fittings and pump the fluid back up into the ports just like on the bench but your using your foot and the proper brake rod. Once its pushed in about 10 times, reattach your real lines and proceed with any...

I like my drums black instead of rust color. Calipers? I run Centerlines...as suggested.

if you loosen the M/C and then put some nuts between it and the firewall creating a gap, then pull the brake pedal back hard and it should pop out.

I had 9's in my first 65 and they were scary. loaded with 5 people it was tough to stop let alone lock the brakes. when they got wet? Forget about the first 2 seconds of braking. Went to 10's for a month and then jumped on an entire 67 setup I found in a pick-a-part. super rare these days ill...

. Ill propose a few bits of information to this argument. To consider a cast iron caliper as an open ended C-clamp is a stretch. Iron don't bend, its too brittle. If a production caliper can pump itself apart, its trash and has no place on a car. Ill say the disc brake system has 8x...

maybe this will help with the operation...... 1970 - 1976 Mopar Combination Valve Rebuild | Muscle Car Research LLC

Drive slowly through a 8" deep gutter and still expect to stop before the crosswalk? Not happening with drums. Disk in the front for the win. Grab em off a Diplomat or something if they are available. Scarebird has kits still? Uses GM calipers and Toyota rotors or some Frankenstein combo.

DOT5 doesnt absorb moisture so this will cause rusting as the moisture isnt absorbed (kinda doesnt make sense but its still in there) DOT5 used to not play well with OEM rubber. That was the myth when it came out, but others have made the switch and not had issues. DOT5 is also (reportedly) more...

disc/drum is gonna apply 70+% bias to the fronts and IIRC they apply the rears a little first then the fronts? Go with the disk/drum prop valve. The disk calipers take much more fluid displacement than the rear drums (hence the larger reservoirs) so if they are all 4 being equal, your not going...

Looks suspect to me...how did they get that color? Let us know, that would be a great addition instead of a rusty cast iron one.

F'n minivan brakes squealing again! MAYBE FRONTS.... Ill have to check the fronts now. I think those rear pads suck. They looked very thick, but I don't need semi metallic or ceramics back there. Ill go back to 'velvet' composition pads if needed to get the squeal out. The fronts were looked at...

10 minutes

The pads still slid, in and out, the caliper still did its thing. The only thing this did was to glue (not sure of thats the correct term) the pad to the piston or the back of the single piston caliper. Its only on the red portions of the caliper. They dont move in the caliper as the slider...

Any printed reasoning behind that?

That orange stuff hit the spot, no more squeaks! Its sort of a thin red RTV as far as I can tell. Just puts a rubbery barrier between the pads and the caliper so when they vibrate, it doesn't get transmitted to the caliper. I'm sure the glued on shims did the same thing when they are new but...

yes, those were found to be shifted so Im removing them. Well see.

Modern disk brakes on a Caravan. All the pads come with MLS shims now to "reduce noise". I've found they tend to move out of position over time so Im ditching mine in the back and applying the orange "squeak stop" rtv like stuff in place of the shims. This is the 2nd time I have checked the...

Im applying that orange squeak stop goop to my pads as we speak on my 2012 Caravans rear. The shim had physically shifted over about 5mm on one side so I just ditched them and put this red RTV type stuff on the backs and reinstalled. Well see. I would not hesitate to grease all the sliding...

Most modern disk-disk are metric. Just get adapters.

Line lock or variable proportioning valve?

inverted flare plugs......Dorman drawers?

Its a 7/8 bore. Does anyone just sell (or have) the front 7/8 piston cup? I have not pulled the cylinder yet but the 7/8 is stamped on the outside.