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This car hasn't been happier.....and......that makes me happy!!!

That's exactly what i did

I also want to add that I had a really short element in my air cleaner as in the spring I put a phenolic spacer under the carb. I measured this out and I believe there was only about 1/4" of room between the vents on the carb and, the air cleaner lid. Long story short I was able to get a taller...

The local speed shop only had an Edelbrock high flow filter. I also put a kit in the carb tonight as it had started to leak out of the metering block gasket.

Well...a little update. It's fixed!!! Don't ask me exactly what cured it as I have done a lot. I will say the filter was very suspect...

3/8 inlet and 1/4 return. I found an article that talks about pumps and how to judge what your motor would need. It said the general rule of thumb is to take your GPH and times it by 10 and that would be how many horsepower the pump would support. The current pump is rated at 125 gph so...

No...I think I'm just going to get a new one.

New regulator is on and return line hooked up. It seems to be much better but, maybe not all the way fixed. I noticed I do have a fuel leak coming from the carb so, I will pick up a kit and hopefully it will be all good.

No sir

This is why I'm going to a regulator with a return side on it. The regulator will be here Wednesday and we shall see if that solves it or, if an electric fuel pump is in my future..

I couldn't get the damn thing apart..lol. It is between regulator and carb.

I believe its a 230206ERL.

You may be right. My new regulator will be here Wednesday so I will try it before i go with electric pump. I also have a 1/2 im phenolic spacer under the carb.

It will run WOT for as long as I want it to after I get out of the throttle it will run just fine for about an 1/8 of a mile before it looses pressure and dies. It also seems heat related as if the motor is cool it doesn't seem to do it.

Its fine under WOT, its about an 1/8 down the road after you get out of the throttle when it has a problem.

I have had them all off and inspected them, they all look good and they are also new.

The gauge is non fluid filled gauge in the rail right before the carb. The line to the pump is 3/8 and from the pump forward is all braided -6 an lines.

I'm measuring psi at carburetor with a non fluid filled gauge in the rail. It had a vented gas cap on it before and still had this issue. It also had this problem before the regulator was installed. Without the regulator this pump will put out 9.5 psi at the carburetor that was the point of the...

It has a stock tank with 3/8 fuel line and, 1/4 return line, a Carter CRT6903 mechanical pump from the pump it has all -6 an steel braided lines to the Holley HLY-12-803 regulator then, -6 an steel braided line through an Earls filter to a Holley 850 double pumper. I really feel the regulator is...

Yes 5.5 lbs...

Yes on all 3 accounts.

I really feel like this is a sort of vapor lock situation. The return line from the engine compartment back to the tank is not hooked up and the regulator I have is not set up for a return line. I have ordered a regulator with a return and will try that first. If I wind up going with an electric...

I have checked the seporator and it's free and clear and, hooked up correctly.

After WOT the pressure drops to zero

It terminates under the trunk floor

This is in an ebody so the 4 lines come from the tank and run up through the trunk floor into a vapor- liquid seporator. There is a 5th line from the seporator that should go to the breather in the valve cover but, its just open to the atmosphere. I can say the return line from the tank is not...

My tank has the 4 vent lines on it.

I would tend to agree but, it did this before the regulator was on it also.

Do they make them to fit in the stock tank? Stock location and still uses the factory gauge?

The idle doesn't change, it's always real steady. With an electric pump this would all go away I think