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I run 3:55's w/a 26" tire and at 60, rpms are @2700. Had 3:91's and rpm's were @3200.

CF DF here too. Why don't you want to remove the over spring?

Vise jaw marks?

I have a similar howl between 41 and 45 mph, decel or accel. Had the chunk out 2x to reset everything, still howls. Strange gears.

Measure the cap diameter U Joint Cap Size

OP's 1st post, give him a break!!!

Here is a good link to read. You can also search the Manual Transmission and Clutch section. Auto To 4 Speed Swap Thread! A full write up including prices!

This might help https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/LOK-INS0046-ChryslerKickdown.pdf

11" brakes came in 2", 2.5", and 3" widths. Someone can confirm this.

Best to measure c/l to c/l of both yokes after the rear is installed, then subtract 1" for suspension travel.

Send it back and get the correct one!!!

Measure the caps before you go or take the joints w/you. 7260 is the small joint, 7290 is the large joint.

Mine did not have C clips.

You're kidding, right?

Make sure the wheels are on the ground when you measure.

To answer your last question, yes. I'd bolt everything up and measure for the driveshaft. Install the trans yoke all the way in and measure the u-joint c/l to c/l, then subtract 1". You need trans yoke clearance for suspension travel and don't want the yoke to bottom out in the trans.

Don't let the axles lay on the seals. Pull the axles completely out. Careful not to damage the seals removing the axles or installing them. I used the ford friction modifier for limited slip rears and straight 80w/90 gear oil. The old 486?????

If ya never done this before, (assuming w/1 post you are a newbie), buy a trans for an A-body, 67 - 72 year.

Had 3.91's and was around 3.3k rpm's at 60mph.

Cruised to Carlisle over the weekend, 3.55's with a 245-60-15 tire (26.6") and it was right on 2.7 - 2.8k rpm at 60mph.

Learn sumtin new everyday. Thanks

Was gonna ask the same Q. Don't see that type on Brewers web site. http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=109

Give Brewers Performance a call.

Didn't know 727's were 4 speeds????

When I had a hurst 1/4 stick, I slid a piece of 5/8" heater hose over the cable in the areas where heat may affect it.

You're joking, right?

Had a Hurst 1/4 stick in the Dart before I switched to a 4 speed, w/a bench seat. Had no issues w/the install but watch where you route the shifter cable, I mean close to exhaust pipes or headers, it will melt. I slipped 5/8" heater hose over the cable where the heat would be the greatest...

Lakewood (if you can find one) or Quicktime (if you can afford it). Search this forum. Based on some posts, they are not a direct bolt on and go.

Ditto on that plus a garbage bag on your upper torso when removing the pig to protect from the pig fluid.

Pinion depth is off or worn pinion bearing. You need to check pinion preload, not pinion play. Axles removed, no load.