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That might limit your options. I'd figure out the connections on those two things first then look at harnesses. If you have an aftermarket column it likely has GM connectors which would actually work seamlessly with the AAW harness. The digital dash is probably LED lit so that may require a...

I've rewired two cars with AAW kits, one A and one B body. The wire they use is nice quality (TXL) but the rest of it kinda sucks. All their kits are based off GM wiring components and 'made to work' in other makes. To be honest, the '68-'70 B body one was way better than the A body one. I had...

Not sure how rowdy your engine is but the table below was from the basically bone-stock 383 that was in my Sniper-equipped '68 Coronet. Initial was 20º, WOT was 34º and cruise was 44º. That engine had 10:1 compression ('68 factory flat top pistons), later 452 heads, factory 335hp hydraulic cam...

Well sounds like you're on the right track and the car is running OK so I wouldn't be too concerned with screwing things up. You can always go back to a known good tune if you find something isn't working. The Hyperspark obviously does not have a provision for vacuum advance so you have to make...

Your MAP scaling does not look quite right. I like to use KPA. In KPA the values should be 100-105 at the top and like 10-20 on the bottom. 14.7 psi = 29.92 inHG =101.3 kpa. Also, what kind of distributor is it? Do you have the ECU controlling timing? You're not going to be able to do much of...

I think that’s where this question usually comes up. If the engine wants to idle at say 1,200 rpm because of the combo and the advance curve is “all in” around the same rpm then theoretically there is little to no advance curve anyway. No way to know if there is any benefit to locking the...

Dedicated race car? Lock it. On a street car it's good to have a curve with tuned vacuum advance because you're spending most of the time at part throttle operation. Just have to ask yourself if you need/want full ignition advance all the time. Your idle will be higher and you will have to...

Just tie IGN 1 and IGN 2 together. The relay works but adds complexity when none is needed.

Sending units are rated @ 10-73 ohms.

I know I answered here already but when the new reply alert came up I re-read your initial post and missed the part about the main power and ground - do not do this. Will it work? Mostly. Will you have problems because of it? Yes. Perhaps you missed it in the instructions - it only says to...

Forget the diode, would serve no purpose except adding complexity. It’s not really a decision to get rid of the ballast resistor, you have to. The Sniper wants full voltage in crank and run - can’t do that with the ballast resistor in place and functioning. Way back in the Jurassic period...

Good decision because Sniper + ballast resistor = bad. Holley specifically states in the instructions that the ECU needs 12V in both crank and run which basically renders the ballast resistor useless. To do that though, you must “tie the IGN1 and IGN 2 circuits together” somewhere behind the...

Its just produces a signal to tell the ECU when to fire the coil. If you use the Holley ignition the coil is wired directly to both the ignition box and the ECU - problem solved. If it were me, I’d forget about using anything other than a Hyperspark ignition box, distributor and coil. Yeah its...

The buzzer is a little molded plastic thing with contact points and two longer red wires coming off it. IIRC the actual 122buzzer is either above or behind the left kick panel but don’t quote me on that. So the wires would have to go through the column/ignition switch connector and into the dash...

Voltage regulator. I've have seen plenty guys keep a few spare regulators in the car just in case. Worth a shot if you want to try for any easy fix, it's a cheap part and takes 3 minutes to replace. If the symptoms come back then you've effectively eliminated that cause. Had a similar thing...

Sorry Kit but I'm not so sure the Time Delay has anything to do with what you are describing. I could be wrong, no disrespect meant. In any event, I believe it's for the A01 light package, which my car has. These are convenience lights - ignition, map and courtesy lights. The ignition lamp...

Huh. Didn't really think of it like that, thanks. At the same time though, I have changed A LOT of stuff so I'm not sure it's totally necessary in my case. Battery in the trunk with remote starter solenoid Mini starter solenoid is run off a Bosch relay Denso alternator with internal...

What exactly does the accessory time delay feature do? This is for a '71 Duster. Reason I ask is because I am trying to strip out all the unnecessary circuits in my dash harness but am finding a bunch of stuff is wired into the time delay feature - marker lights, beam selector switch etc. I...

I was not implying the gauge was at fault. What I was saying was that it can be a problem since a rather large amount of current is running through it under normal circumstances. If there is an issue somewhere else and e the fail safe system (fusible link, fuse etc. ) fails to mitigate the...

I believe the main thrust of eliminating the ammeter is because ALL the current in the car goes through it. Therefore, any fault in the system due to resistance, bad ground, etc. can potentially increase the chances of it frying even if the fault is not in the charging circuit itself. The gauge...

I guess if you can, reach up and disconnect the wires from the ammeter. But... you may not have enough length/room to do what you need to do, space is pretty limited back there and you most definitely do not want to half *** splicing those two wires together. They need to be joined with a butt...

Well, sort of. The black wire is connected to a welded splice in the harness and has a couple different legs coming off of it. Just make sure you find the one between the ammeter and the splice! Pulling the instrument panel is not that bad if you lower the column. You don't have to pull it...

Thanks for posting pics. I believe I need mine to be a little lower.

Clint, I've seen yours. I might end up doing something like that but I might make the bracket mount the pivot instead of the adjuster. Here's the thing. I have a mechanical fuel pump which has a larger body than any other fuel pump I've ever had. It's a 6 vane capable of pushing A LOT of fuel...

Anyone? Have to be a few of you guys that have done this...

OK, how many have relocated their alternator to the driver's side on a small block? How did you do it? PICS PICS PICS please! Thanks!

The wires do not look they are placed correctly in the pic. Does the car start/run OK? Can't see how it would with the wires like that. Does not 'really' matter exactly where the #1 terminal is as long as the firing order is correct. It's odd for it to be that far over. If it was wired like that...

The ammeter was/is used to monitor all the amperage that goes through the car's wiring system. Yes, it is an antiquated design and we would all be better served had Mopar designed the system to monitor voltage instead. Regardless, if you don't use the gauge, it's best to do the ammeter...

Cool! Seems like a hall-effect trigger needs an external energy source unlike a magnetic pickup. Either way, glad it works now.

Looked this up, found two links which might help. One and two.