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Understand, it's collapsed already. The shear pins prevent it from collapsing until they are sheared. It was designed to collapse as a safety feature. A severe enough frontal impact could/would push the shaft backwards towards the driver. If the shear pins were intact, they would offer some...

Like I stated initially, the shaft is collapsed. No fixing that, it's junk. I mean, it will steer the car but without the shear pins intact, the shaft will not have the correct impact absorption in case of a frontal crash. Just be aware that a hard enough crash and you could potentially get...

I do have to retract my last statement that you don't need any special tools to take apart the column. You will need a steering wheel puller. In any event, you can remove those parts but why? If you pull it apart, you will see what the noise is all about. Find/fix the 'problem' and things...

It sounds like the locking collar is loose. There's a roll pin and a slip on cover that goes over the snout of the collar when it's installed on the shaft properly. There's also a piece inside the column bowl where the key tumbler is that is spring-loaded. It catches on one of the slots to lock...

I think the best way to go about this is to find a manual steering shaft and coupler with the correct collars. You don't need to find an entire column, everything else will be the same so you can swap the shafts, coupler and collars while re-using everything from your original. I always like to...

So like I said originally, the shaft is collapsed, you have incorrect parts for the application or an incorrect install of the wrong parts. If it were me, I'd try to find a correct shaft that has not been collapsed. I might even look into a whole column assembly just to make sure you have all...

Manual 40 3/8" Power 36 3/8" Search is your friend. Link here.

Well, there you go. I've never actually taken apart a pre-'70 column. Sorry for any misleading info. Regardless, you would know if the shaft is collapsed by pulling the two halves apart. I've had one come apart by pulling on it so if you're sure it's solid, don't mess with it. Not sure about...

If the shaft is not collapsed then it has to be either the lock collar or snap ring. Pull very gently on the two halves of the shaft to see if they slide apart. If it's still "whole" so to speak and the plastic shear pins are solidly intact, then check the lock collar and snap ring for proper...

No problem. Let us know what you find when you take it apart, curious to know myself.

Huh. Never seen hat before. You gotta blow through several road blocks and be really intent on doing things half-assed to end up at that point. It's almost laughable. Take the whole thing out, you'll never figure out what happened with it still in the car. Take it apart and see what is going...

Could be a few things - mismatched parts, collapsed steering shaft or altogether incorrect installation. Again, there should be no movement in the shaft beyond the upper bearing/lock collar. The lock collar is installed on the shaft with a roll pin and once that's in, it can't move. Now, if...

PRNDL or prindle. But yes, these are the column collars. Still unclear as to why can't you get the steering wheel on though. Are you referring to the 'steering wheel' as the whole column? Regardless, I've had a similar issue, it can somewhat depend on the sequence you use to tighten the nuts...

Your question kind of makes no sense. What part exactly are you referring to, the column collars? The lower column cover is usually just a trim piece that fastens to the underside of the dash with four screws to cover up the hole. Regardless, if the shaft is too short, something is not...

Alignment shops usually rely on some sort of computerized system based off of factory specs. The way it works is you set the car up on the rack with turn plates and sensors. Then you input year, make, model etc. and the specs come up on a screen. Adjust the components to proper range and test...

Almost looks like too much adjustment. How would you know where to start? I wonder what the deal is with that little snubber on the front spring pivot, looks like a short version of the old Lakewood traction bars. Link here.

Not to keep beating a dead horse here but I feel like a few things need to be clarified since you are so concerned about wasting bandwidth and having to take precious time out of your life to answer redundant questions. Again, this is a DISCUSSION forum. Searching a particular topic can help...

Lighten up, Francis. Asking questions in an open discussion forum is the whole point of their existence. Of course it's up to the OP how to interpret the answers he's given. This stuff may not be so obvious to some people. Maybe he gets lucky and someone with some knowledge and experience...

Kind of pointless and not terribly helpful to respond like this. The OP is from the UK and unless he has run across a video for Lisa Caldwell and her Dart then he would likely have no idea what you were referring to. Sure, some of their ideas could translate here but only in a general sense...

Understood, however (I'm sure you realize this already) this is not an optimal set up. Those tires may have some bite but nowhere near what a slick or drag radial would have. They're basically street rod tires. Guess you could air them down and see what they do. If you do decide to purchase...

I would say the Sportsman Pros on the back are not doing you any favors either. It sounds like a dedicated race car with the roll cage and fuel cell so get a pair of real slicks and be done with it. Front tires are somewhat less important but a set of front runners will provide less rolling...

What is the rest of the combo? Tires? Engine/transmission/gear? Matching the components to the application is the first priority. Converter, timing, carb settings, blah blah blah. To answer your question in terms of what you have - clamping the front section of the springs and the snubber are...

All brand new Moog stuff on my Duster from RA. Driven it a few times around the block since I finished it and noticed several of the boots are leaking. The LF outer tie rod boot is completely shot already, like torn in half. Not happy. Might be install error on my part somehow but I can't see...

There are some really fast cars with Caltracs. Just so you know. See here.

The coupler should go down farther so all the splines are covered by the coupler. The pin hole should then be centered over the concave indentation between the splined parts of the steering box input shaft. You won't be able to put the pin in unless its lined up properly.

Found this thread in another Mopar forum. Good in-depth info.

If the plastic pins are gone, your shaft is collapsed. That's what it looks like in the pic...

Any time this comes up, I always say the shaft is junk. Those pins are in there for a reason, so the shaft does not instantly impale you to the back seat in an accident. Think about it - the shaft is essentially connected directly to the K member (chassis) through the steering box. If the car is...

Did you remove the snap ring that keeps it in place? Sometimes it can be hidden in the groove a little. Takes a little persuasion sometimes. If you are going to pry on any part of the insulator, make sure you don't tear it which can happen very easily. The old grease in there can be fairly...