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The 383 block in the video below was bored .060" over. It was not sonic checked. Thiw is a 440 Source-based 438" stroker. Made 450hp, 475 lb. ft of torque. Does not overheat, guy drives the thing everywhere in all conditions. YRMV.

251@.050”? Seems pretty standard these days, especially with a big block stroker. Not really apples to apples but the SFT cam in my iron headed, 416” small block is 259 @ 050”. Care to wager how this combo might perform with a hydraulic roller? I have a similar combo with a hyd. roller waiting...

Yep, I was going by things I have read which clearly I was misinterpreting. You know I've been asking a lot of questions about the Sniper. For whatever reason, that idea about needing a single plane intake was stuck in my head. That particular question comes up a lot though, right or wrong...

Guess it's working for you well enough but from what I've read on various forums using a dual plane intake creates distribution issues. Not sure exactly how to ascertain something like that is actually happening unless you had 8 individual 02 sensors... Did you remove the center divider? Are...

Nice combo. What intake? Holley recommends a single plane. Sniper is in the works for my B body project.

That sucks.

Look at Hughes cams.

Sounds like a decent street combo. Like stated already, don't over cam it and it will be fun to drive. Just one point though is that stroker 'kits' are generally not too much more than standard rotating assembly parts. If you have the crank already, then OK but if you have to buy it and it...

Well, true, just thinking that balancing in general always seems to wind up costing more for various reasons, especially with non-stock parts. My local 'speed' machine shop charges $275 for internal balancing while they charge $375 for 'dependent' balancing which I take to mean external...

Go to the link, plug in the numbers, look at the results. Engine Compression Ratio (CR) Calculator 400 head gasket bore is 4.410. .030" over bore is 4.372. B engine stroke is 3.38.

Sounds OK if you want like 12.1:1 CR. Math is your friend. Funny how that budget thing always goes out the window when you try and make stuff you have on hand work.

I agree with Mr. IQ52 in that you have a lot of milling going on and it will a pain to figure out how to line all that stuff up once it's done. I can see elongating intake bolt holes and trying to figure out how to seal the valley tray in your future. Make sure that head bolt holes are tapped...

Demon, that will be a good combo. IMO, ditching the heavy low compression pistons can only work in your favor, regardless of whatever else you do to the thing.

Rob, the "stock slug" 400 in my truck has the MP .484 cam in it which is 241 @ .050". With approx. 8.1:1 CR, open chamber heads, Performer RPM intake, granny tranny 4 speed and a 3.23 rear... let's say it runs but that's about it. No low end torque at all and the truck does not spend a lot of...

True. But, for the cost, I don't think the Stealths would offer much over the ported iron heads he said he has and the pistons would still be way down in the hole. Guess there is the cost of balancing with new pistons as well but I say build the best bottom end you can, heads are just a bolt...

Pistons are less than half of what a set of those aluminum heads cost. Even if you took the block to get machined, you'd still be dollars ahead over buying Stealths for $1,100.

How come you wouldn't want to deck the block? Not saying to chop .500" off but maybe if you have it cleaned up say .020" - .030" or so to square things up then get the pistons you're looking at, you'd be close to zero deck, no? Factory blocks tend to be all over the place with deck heights, so...

X2. More of a hassle than it's worth, as evidenced by this thread.

Though it seems to be against popular opinion, I would say there is no advantage to those heads in your situation, other than they are new. That's the thing that almost swayed me into buying those heads - the idea of sinking money into 45 year old open chamber iron heads to 'fix them up' or...

Sorry, I got your reply mixed up with the first guy, don't mean to be contentious. I guess the thing about the heads is that they are essentially copies of what he has already with a slightly smaller chamber. It's my understanding also that aluminum will not keep as much heat in the chamber as...

An engine does not care what vehicle it's in. Could be in a boat or a motorhome, the same principles still apply. Think about what is being said - you want the guy to take apart his freshly-rebuilt short block to deck it 1/16" while keeping the stock low compression pistons in it. Then, put...

He needs pistons more than anything, the slugs are down in the hole .100". Decking the block .060" to get it to within .020" of the deck is not the answer and probably not even physically possible. If you are taking the rotating assembly out and decking the block then you're buying different...

I think that cam you mentioned is too big. It won't be great at lower rpms. It'll run, just not great. You could advance it for more torque but that's a band-aid for a poor combination of parts. I was gonna do a similar thing with the 400 in my truck. I looked hard at those heads but decided...

It's high considering most of it is not useful if you're building a stroker. You can't get much over scrap for low-po mid 70s stuff anymore either so selling parts you don't need to recoup may not happen. I paid $200 for a '71 400 block a while back when low deck strokers gained popularity. I...

:thumrigh:

You should be able to flip the blade. I believe you can also reverse the polarity of the motor by switching the wires which will spin it the opposite direction. Pusher fans are not as efficient as pullers though. You could always wire it so its on all the time rather than being thermostatically...

I had the idea of putting the fan in front and making it a pusher. I doubt it was designed to be installed that way but if you don't want to cut anything, you may not have a choice. Not sure if you would even be able to do it, I have no idea how the fan mounts to the core with this setup. In...

Just post the pics here so everyone can see. I'm curious to see how you handled it.

Exactly what I said already. Kind of the only way to do it.

He's got the combo unit which has an electric fan on it. It sticks into the engine bay too far and apparently would contact the water pump. No fan blade like yours. Not sure if there is a shorter water pump for a big block. My first thought was to go to an electric one but they are usually...