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360 head over a 318 because flow trumps compression every time and has been proven over and over again and again. To that end, ai’d walk right to an aluminum head over a cast iron 360 head.

Skip used Magnum heads. IMO, skip them in full unless they are the MoPar R/T Magnum heads, (LMAO - Good luck finding these hens teeth.) or use Edelbrock Magnum heads. A readily available and very good choice.

Welcome aboard! 318 Willrun covered it well. I’ve done a few 318’s over the decades. My advice? Don’t bother with the 302 heads, use what you have. The 302’s aren’t that good as cast but can be ported out really well. In my opinion, skip porting them UNLESS you can port them yourself...

Heck, 1 of the TQ’s I have up for sale I listed as a parts carb but it’ll take a rebuild out and work with a good thorough cleaning

Ahhhh, ain’t no thing. I figured it would be good info who ever stumbles on in. You never know who is reading. I figured a new guy to the car hobby and MoPars might like to know this stuff. May even help somebody from getting really pissed off? lol!

A big huge thank you! I love being proven wrong with the added bonus of possibly getting one. THANK YOU!!!!! $450? Pro rebuilt, awesome looking. $2100 = Crack head pricing.

No conversion parts available. Be crafty….. (For the OP just incase…) The Offy is over a $600 intake. The Weiand's have no choke well. (Or coil mount bosses) The Performer is a light weight stock replacement intake that has the choke well. Better options! I agree. TQ parts are available at...

When you hit the reply or quote button, type outside the quote tags. They will have a bracket “[ ]” I have run the LD modified as per the book and have done so without issues on a low compression 318, mild Hyd. cam,, 4spd manual & 4.10’s. The carb was the 440 TQ. It has the same size primaries...

:rofl:

The big PIA about there use is they have a choke that uses a choke well on the intake which the LD-340 doesn’t have. Rigging up a pull cable is a PIA and IMO, doesn’t look very good. I used a 440 TW on top of my LD-340 without a cable. I don’t know where you have seen a TQ for those prices but...

In keeping with Dans question, not building a race engine ether…. Though some things would have you think otherwise, I have to agree with a bunch above. Corrected lifter angles with a better oiling system good for 10K rpm, (Chevrolet ) no pushrod pinch heads and a thicker main web for 4 bolt...

Freakin A! From the get go! Sounds like a race engine to me…. LOL!

Somewhere around the mid ‘80’s, QJ’s are round a good bit. Exactly when, IDK. But that did become the replacement carb for the TQ at one point. I’m not a 100% positive on anything on that topic. What I do know is Carter was making QJ’s for Rochester for a while. I never head of a TQ shortage...

Oh man you opened up a can of worms! LMAO. AJ is right on carb size working from little to big. Considering the build, I’ll also assume a decent gear ratio is back there for the go fast effect. I can only say what I would do and having used a 600 AFB to a 750, I liked the 750 a little better...

I was just on the phone BSing with a life long friend and he just brought up a time when he broke a cast crank in a Pontiac Grand Prix way back when. He is notorious for pounding cars into the grave early. It’s also one of the reasons he got into and stayed with MoPar. He used to pound on cars...

I’m retired but have considered working again, though my posting won’t slow down any. Did you miss my stick poking emoji trying to transfer the idea that I’m just kidding? Crap! Backed you up there after!

LMAO! That’s a 100% correct statement from the 318 hater. :poke: Seriously folks, a 318 crank will work great.

302 heads are NOT J heads. J heads are early 340/360 heads. I would not bother with 302 or OEM Magnum heads. IF the block was a Magnum / no oil through the head gallery, I’d go straight to the Edebrock Magnum heads. Otherwise, it would be a regular aluminum LA head. An ‘86 block is a roller LA...

In all honesty, I’d run the roller cam ‘86 and paint it blue.

LOL… what the magazines write - 28 vs 10 & what the engine see’s. Enough numbers to keep your head spinning for a little bit.

Then there is the case where you get to a point where you hurt the low end lift pretty good and pick up on the high lifts pretty good. This, to me turns the head into a drag head where the valves are just simply shot open as fast as possible and then just hang out there for a spell before...

Oh yes because it increases torque by 70-80 fr lbs easy! I guess if it’s after the apocalypse in the world looks like Fury Road or Thunderdome and you sitting next to me Gibson scraping for scraps, I guess the 318 heads on a 340 will be OK then. But not before then!

Thanks, that was a big help right there.

Nice.

I like going to the bigger hole above.

Now, I did find something interesting. On the older water pumps sold now, new/rebuilt (?) today. They come with an adapter. The gauge sensor will screw into the one adapter which screws into the second adapter and will screw into the by pass house outlet on the intake. As pictured below, the...

Perhaps I have the wrong stuff. The fittings pictured above do what you suggest. Can you get a picture of yours?

Just incase…. The thermostat will not go into the top.

To answer the question…. First! Price the use of dual fittings on the side of the ext need housing. This is a must with this unit. IDK about others. The below is a standard thermostat. This is a Go! The below is a “NO GO!” The high flow thermostat. The top doesn’t allow the temp gauges...

As seen…. I took a lazy way out… IF it was just for the temp sender. But I’ll be running water to it. The unit I have has 4 ports. I got a check that thermostat question out in a second. I should know the answer since I played around with it some. But I can’t remember at the moment.