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WOW! Some Ol’skool stuff there. Everybody working?

It’s also hard to find an area or condition where there isn’t a Benefit to having a hotter spark but it becomes a issue is it really needed and how much does it improve the combustion. A combination of hotter, longer, larger and multiple strikes is the winner and nearly always improves mileage...

Not that I’m aware of. Zero radio interference with mine.

Yes. It’s also a larger and more powerful spark. You can also open up the plug gap to make the spark longer. So you end up with a longer length hotter spark to more full ignite the fuel. This results in more power (under full throttle or not) and mileage when cruising.

I used the above on a ‘94 (IIRC) Hyundai Excel 5spd manual. It grabbed me more mileage but would turn the distributor cap into looking like a charred piece of wood. It would also destroy the rotor. This would happen every 13 months. 1st time was a surprise. Second time was lesson learned...

I sent him an old piggy back, peripheral ignition system by Jacob‘s. He has a trio of videos up now on todays testi think you guys are really going to like this short series and I hope he finds another thing to test on it. Perhaps there is a Chrome or Gold box floating in his shop???? I could...

Rusty hit it. Distributor base

What does the bronze shaft have to do with ignition?

My 2 cents is the multi spark ignitions are mileage helpers down low and can help clean up the insides and reduce emissions. After that, I have found the Chrysler ignitions to be just fine with an upgraded module. When the orange box was a quality unit, it was great for general performance and...

Yes and no. While the Painless wiring is new, it all isn’t color coded and wired the same as a MoPar is. There modeled after a GM. They are very good wiring systems, you just have to know the differences and understand wiring before you jump in. I’ve met a few people that really didn’t know...

That’s a exactly what I told my son about women.

I’ve gone further on a driver. A stock low compression 360 looking for mileage. When the gap was at .055, it fell off some and I went back to .050. This is what I found best for THAT APPLICATION which may it be good for YOUR APPLICATION. With the higher compression ratio, the gap needs to be...

With or without a battery kill for racing purposes?

Last time this happened to me… sorry, the only time…. It was a MoPar Orange box failure. It would however restart if I unplugged it and plugged it back in again. Spin my head for 4 times to n each try and so I “Fired!” The box and the replacement has worked great ever since. Weird right?

My MSD-6A boxes were straight garbage. The MSD & Pace - RTR distributor has been very good so far. Zero issues.

I wanna out this out there, @Carnut68 , again, thanks for the posts. But has anyone surfed his link to 4secondsflat? He has a bunch of really helpful stuff. He used to post here a bit. Don, the owner is a good fella and a MoPar nut racing his A body Barracuda in the northwest. He is quite the...

Yes, thanks, I know, appreciate it anyway. Always good to post it for others for sure.

Yea, I know, I have the MSD, thanks. Yes.

1 MSD, 1 Pace Performance. The Pace Performance unit doesn’t have a tach hook up and uses a steel part over the MSD plastic part inside the distributor. They both perform equally and one reason is they’re both made at the same plant in China. There basically identical unit and even more sonic I...

My only experience with this is once the regulator went bad and was stuck on charge. The gauge would let every time the car ran. The battery swelled fat and boiled all the liquid out dry. No other electrical items in the car were harmed. I first replaced the battery since it was burnt toast...

I think he said in the past it was an older unit. The new ones have sucked, the old ones were much better. My one and only MSD box that lasted, which was an easy 20 years was the first one I bought. Everyone there after sucked balls.

Gotta love this guy ^^^^^^^^ The MSD RTR is a simple thing to do and doesn’t require major surgery on the wiring to install. Out the factory parts you replace into a small box and put it in the trunk of the car for that just incase moment. Most. Hey sled guys carry a spare ballast resistor and...

The MSD “KIT” has them. I have the kit. Thank you though.

I have a pair of the MSD knock offs. They’re exactly the same thing minus a better bushing inside of them. Not anything different. I just ran the 3 wires as the directions said and haven’t had an issue yet. The one thing I do not like about the MSD or the knock offs is the lack of adjustment...

Tunnel ram with A/C? Must be HOT where he lives!

OH! That’s there easy add on trigger point. That’s what I have on my Pro Steet system. Connect the stock coil wire there, then run the Jacobs coil wire to the distributor.

Yes, Use the Jacobs coil

If it works correctly, that will be the best ignition you’ll ever have. I had a Pro Street model that was insanely powerful. It would burn up the distributor caps on a Hyundai. I went from 38 to 41 mpg.

When I ran this box on a friends Chevy PU w/a pretty hot 383. It did very well. As I said earlier in this post. I’d leave the orange box & ballast resister in there and ready to go should the ignition take a dump. But yes you can bypass or remove that system entirely.

@Brooks James :rofl::rofl::rofl: Dang Dan! I’m just gonna say, I’m glad I wasn’t drinking when I read that! :lol: