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Got the bleeder kit installed. Good thing is the kit is the exact thread pitch as the original bleeder. Still ran a tap through it though. Installed it, bled it, all is good.

I decided to go with the Wilwood. It's cheaper and it has some kind of thread locker on it similar to what some OEM's use. Bought 2 for the price of 1 Dorman. Thanks SGBARRACUDA for the heads up on the repair kit!

I guess I will try that Wilwood repair kit first. Damn, back to Summit I go. Was just about to get a set of remans from Oreilly's. Thought I'd check here first. Glad I did! Advance Auto has a Dorman brand around the corner from the house or should I make the 30 min trip to Summit for the Wilwood...

I have no idea of the machining quality of the new bleeder. It "looked" to be well made but of course you can't gauge quality by looks. I measured the thread pitch to match the original and it was correct. It was a Dorman brand purchased from my local Advance Auto Parts. Maybe that's the problem.

I have a '71 Duster with '73 K frame, suspension, brakes. The passenger side caliper is leaking at the bleeder screw location. I've replaced the bleeder screw and it still leaks. Any ideas before I get new/ reman calipers? Not mine in the pic but similar.

Not sure if you can use the 8.25 discs on the 8.75 as the axle offset may be different. The 8.75 uses pressed bearings on the axles where as the 8.25 bearings are in the housing. From what I've read, you can use discs on 8.75 with "green bearings". Of course I may be wrong.

I have a '71 Duster. I simply measured mine and went to rockauto.com and ordered it. Year One's prices are ridiculous.

I say go with drums on the rear with an adjustable proportioning valve. Criss cross brakes guys! That's funny as hell!!!!!!!!!!

Why not get some steel plate to re-inforce that opening and make it stronger if you cannot get a new piece welded in.

How are you going to proportion the front to rear bias? The stock Mopar proportioning valve may not work.

Removing the cables from the drums will be lots easier if you collapse the little retaining teeth with small hose clamps. It's pretty straightforward deal.

Funny thing about those "experts" who know it all about the spindle thing. They have never actually experienced or seen a failure.

The early Dusters used a different setup. My '71 goes straight back from the firewall along the driver side framerail. The passenger side cable comes over to the driver side to meet the rear cable bracket that connects the two. I added that info if you were not sure if all Dusters use the same...

I got mine from Rockauto.com. Great price too. I'm using a narrowed 9.25 axle with 8.75 ends/ backing plates. I simply ordered A-Body 8.75 cables.

I ordered a set of Moser axles for a narrowed 9.25 axle with 8.75 ends/bearing setup. I used backing plates from a '73 Dodge D100, bought 2.5" shoes, drums for the same vehicle. Everything bolted right up. I think most aftermarket axles are drilled for the big bolt pattern/center register since...

Rockauto.com has a booster & master cylinder assembly for $137 with a $60 core charge. Does not specify discs or drums. I've never seen an A-Body with power drum brakes. Not that it doesn't exist.

I don't know what size rims you have but disc brakes require 14" wheels or larger. Swapping to discs will not affect alignment geometry. My brother and I swapped his '71 Dart to discs with no problems. I even aligned it my self with original specs.

You will also need a disc brake master cylinder. The drum brake cylinder will not have enough pressure for discs.