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Im using the chevy HEI with a 6 pin connector. I also tried running a ground wire from it to battery I thought problem was fixed but it isn't.

I paid $50 at parts store, whats the difference between them and the $10 dollar ones on ebay?

Guess I gotta carry a extra just like a ballast resistor.

Well I had different springs so I changed them out, turned out that didn't fix it. Had a used gm module from a friend put it on and it works great again. I never saw that with the gm module before they either worked or didn't but at least it is fixed.

No I didn't, also if it makes any difference I use the GM stuff and no longer have a ballast resistor and Chrysler box.

Exshaust is open

It shuts off even when not into the secondaries, Im gonna pull valve covers tomorrow I have a sneaky suspicion springs are worn or broke.

comp cam with 478 lift double valve springs, holley 870 street avenger. When it hits the 5000 and goes dead if I up shift to second its fine till I get to 5000 again. Electronic ignition, mopar performance distributor. timing at 20 initial 35 all in around 28oo rpms

secondaries do open, probably 3500 miles on rebuilt motor. Im thinking possible a week valve spring, or broken one? Doesn't matter if I take it slow or fast just stops at 5000

67 barracuda with a 360 auto, have been driving it for about 3 years with no problems, you could wind it up to 6500 with no problems but now it goes to 5000 and feels like valve float, just doesn't want to go further. Any sugestions?

Listen to crackedback Also you always have to tune a new carb there not plug and play.

Try switching out the dizzy, put the old on in if it worked ok. That's the easiest and fastest way to go.

Do you have vacume line plugged when your checking this?

Use the red RTV heat silicone one at a time. If the person who built the engine would have done that you wouldn't be where you are now.

My 360 loves 20 initial, then I go 15 mechanical to give me 35 total no pinging all in around 2600.

Stick it in something and run the hell out of it.

I'm thinking there is nothing special same as hyd shafts someone will chime in.

pm sent how did you modify the grommet?

lokar sell new cables also.

They figure 15-20% difference between rear wheel hp and engine so that puts you around 200. You said stock rebuild which was 275 if I remember right.

In 1970 I had AAR cuda that 6 pk saw 8000 all the time, I was 18 yrs old. Now my understanding of the stroker motor is they make there hp at a lot less rpm. I would have though 5000 would be it on your motor. Just my 2 cents.

I think when we did mine 8 years ago we took the weight off the torque converter. Someone will chime in for sure.

Stroke it

Ive had my ttis on my eddys for 4 years no problems.

Ive been using royal purple with good luck. Remember he has a chevy that's the problem there.

Broke mine in using the doubles, not a problem.

Also make sure hoses are collapsing.

Timing alone may fix this, I would get your distributor tuned in first, than go to carb with a accelerator pump adjustment and you should be good to go.

I would think you need double springs with that cam, not the ones that came with eddy heads.

I agree always use recommended springs and retainers. Any time you reach max horse power like 5500-5800 it time to grab another gear not to keep reving it just because it will.