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Are you looking for raised white letters? If not, ditch the BFG and Coopers and go with the Kuhmos as they will be cheaper! Remember, your priority is price so don’t expect a world beating tire at that price point especially since it’s an all season tire…. Which means it’s not really good at...

You can't post too many photos!!! We are a visual bunch and love seeing classic Mopars!!!

Let's not forget that as the cost of production goes up (labor, regulatory compliance, etc), the profit margins get thinner and thinner. Costs end up getting cut somewhere. It gets really easy to see why a lot of this **** gets outsourced oversees.

Hang them by the balls is my thoughts.

So the population is down by 75% now.

Same here but I can't afford it.

Post 18 is another possibility

The OP said that he was told that the engine was rebuilt before he got it. Myself, I don't see any other way but to pull the engine and fix it right. I don't believe in patch work or doing things half as*ed.

Operation Grand Slam. Waterloo PD and US Martials have been arresting thugs in town. 25+ so far today.

gotta find a way to repair that because if you put a new main cap on you'll want to line hone the block.

My experience is with Kumho tires but not that size, I had them on my 96 Ram 2500 plow truck, with those tires I didn't need to use the 4x4

Attention to detail is great. It is a lot is fun to see where you are going.

I figure over $5.00 by MITP.. At that point I'm out. Not that I can't afforded it, or just being cheap. Just don't fell like getting screwed over by big oil.

The seller doesn't actually say that it's a Formula S. It has the fender emblems, but, some other features are suspect.....along with some items that are not stock and have been changed, such as the intake, carb, and radiator. No photo of the tach or front sway bar. I guess you could get a...

maybe just for a bit in November...

The best would be to pull the cap off, take it to a machine shop and see if they can repair do a thread cert in it. This is not something you want to do with a hand drill…

My 65. Original most everything except the 8-3/4 added after 7-1/4 broke, wheels/tires, rebuilt the original 273, convertible top, disc brakes/dual master, paint underhood and one door. And Other things commonly replaced of course like regulator, filters, bushings, etc.

Figures it wasn't going to get better.

I used the "stock" replacement Cloyes 340 chain...as mentioned above, got about 6 months out of it. however, I did get real good at changing the chain quickly.

When I read the title, I came prepared with a string of smartazz comments. But now that I see , I decided you don't need me to ruin your day, lol. Happy HotRodding

Wow that's cool. and all this time I thought you were fishing.

Oh boy!

I don't see any way around it

just now? we've got some at $4.29...if you drive 10 miles south it's 3.85.

Ok gotcha. I'm a Mechanic by trade. I build my own stuff and I do beat the chit out of it, then fix it when it breaks then beat the chit out of it some more, until something else breaks. I did that for five years and then finally got everything strong enough, that nothing after that broke any...

See if you have enough cap left below the crack to tap some threads and install a stud, oil pump bolt torque is what 35? if not your sol.

The motor was rebuild from what the owner told me

I don't think that I would use a heli coil for any engine block repair.

Idk I took it off to put the new oil catcher pump but I think i tightened it too much by accident man I'm not mechanically inclined for this guys please help I don't want to take that part off

I'm installing a 360 magnum in my '67 dart and I'm using TTi shorty headers. No issues whatsoever on the passenger side, but yes on the driver side the collector interferes with the brake proportioning valve. I'm gonna have to reconfigure that valve...