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I would be inclined to change linkage adjustments first, then check fluid pressure and maybe turn it up, it could also be the governor weights. I rebuilt my 727 with a bolt in sprag, 3.8 lever and 12 springs, new clutches, steels, and seals. I should have replaced the RV govenerweights. It’s on...

Got fuel lines buttoned up, power steering lines done, and got a plan for throttle pedal. Going to modify the factory pedal to accept the LS cable attachment. Also got hydraulic clutch bled and working great. Sure is nice to sit in the drivers seat a pump the clutch and shift through the gear...

I would dive into that stash like Scrooge McDuck Might need that much $$ to pay for it

And all the GM cars used the 5 point MOPAR rivets too. NOPE they are also 6 point, so are AMC. I think my 1989 BMW 635 CSI M6 was also a 6 point rivet..... Was not a Manufacture mandated rivet. It was a FEDERAL mandated rivet.

The diagram is from a factory TSB that's available on The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page I'm not at all convinced that narrowing the track width more will make up for the 26" tall tire. That combination of rim and tire is already over ~1" inside of the fender lip. I suspect all you'll do is...

I’m glad they work for you but they didn’t work on my car. 2 years of adjusting and several phones calls to Calvert himself, I gave up. Wasted a lot of time and $ with cal tracs and I will never use them again.

ok thanks for the follow up

Doesn’t the band lever correspond with how many springs are used? For example 4.2 15 clutch springs 3.8 10 or 12 springs etc.

It’s something we can all Learn. I did it 100% on my own and I’m not a brain surgeon.

You couldn’t be more wrong. My son has only transbraked his car a few time because he runs an 8 3/4 with no backbrace or aftermarket caps. Ohhhhh caltracks to with stock front suspension other than 90/10 shocks and ranchos in the rear.

:realcrazy:

I wonder what it look like send me a pic if you can so i get the idea what it look like.

The car is SOLD. Staying in PA . I wish the new owner many years of enjoyment and "thumbs up" as the car gave me. I'll be on the hunt for my next vehicle being a 67-72 dart that is done up like the duster that just sold.

Anybody knows how Edlebrock measures Intake Manifold Height? Is it from the top of the base or from the bottom? Or is the measurement based on how it sits in the block? If so where is the reference point? 7576 Air Gap 5.35” 2176 Performer 4.63” 7176 RPM. 5.35”

Depends what you want, there's kind of two ways to look at it different displacement built over similar powerbands say idle-5,000 rpms with the right parts the larger engine will generally make more power across the the entire idle-5,000 rpms, a 5,000 rpm peak hp will give about 0.9-1 peak hp...

Road trip!

i just bought a '772' mopar intake. not sure if i'll use it yet as i have a CFE tunnel ram. i would really like to start porting but scared to screw it up. it's an art form for sure.

Is your pedal rock hard and near the top of travel ?

Yes and no. That's really not that expensive. The NOS I bought was 80.00 I made some out of aluminum and stainless and they seemed to be functional and strong enough. The center pin was problematic but I could have solved that. I even thought about tapping threads for a screw in pin rather...

5800 is in the ball park for your peak torque. my black R/T was horrible in the 60'. i had cal tracs and it didn't matter what i did, there was no change in 60'. i talked to John Calvert several times over the phone about it. i switched to his 90/10 rear shocks and still no difference. next...

All clear now. Just so you know, I would pretty much have to have the car and related parts up here. But I will think about it. Do you know what’s keeping it from running? Oh, I went back to your sale post. “Some assembly required” lol. Yea, that would have to be up here.

Caitlin and Kate both made the WNBA draft. Congrats gals!

fantastic advice and you've got the parts ready rock as well. that's the jam right there.

Holes should already be in the frame rails...

Makes sense, no change to the cam. Should just have better numbers with more air providing capacity to carry more fuel. Glad you’re putting stuff on hold to get the right converter…a decent number of guys would suffer through the season and deal with it over the winter, then start the next...

I would assume a larger port in the cylinder head and more volume in the intake manifold that peak tq rpm would have raised not not lowered by 20 rpm & your compression is up .5 This is interesting

Starting to realize who left that empty mickey bottle in the trunk of my Bee....

Hey Ian, I'm not sure if I mentioned it when we talked, but I have a full set of Kelsey Hayes front discs (SBP), as well as a full set of 73+ discs (BBP). I was going to suggest you go the BBP route with the 73+ so your front wheels match the rears and you don't need to carry two spares.

yeah, i'd say try the power stops and then reevaluate where you are. you should still be able to lock the fronts up though. the rear discs should be enough to haul down that tire too. and those pressures seem in line with what would be considered an acceptable range. is there any peripheral...

Great question. That was after. Before was 5790. Every pull before and after have been around 5700-5900 and that is with running it out to 7000