‘67 Barracuda FB quarters, extensions, and rear glass

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67/6barracuda

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Sharpsburg, GA
My project is going from mild to wild as it relates to fixing rust. I like others had missed out on the AMD sale recently that had their full quarters 50% off. When I finally got the nerve to order them they had sold out of the full passenger side. The drivers side could still be had. But I could really just have used a small patch panel for the drivers side. Well my luck has it that I ordered a Goodman passenger patch panel from getallparts.com. Well they refunded my money cause they could not get it with the shut down. So I called summit, they had the Sherman so I ordered it. No complaints it got here fast in good shape. I also grabbed a AMD trunk extension.
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Here’s where it gets interesting as I’m fitting the panel and rebuilding the tail light bucket and rear valance.
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The AMD trunk extension fit perfect. I did notice I installed it a little high on the back end after the fact but it will work out.
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As I was fitting the Sherman panel I decided to install the whole patch panel cause my car had a wreck at some point in its life and keeping the original styling would have took extra work. So I bought a harbor freight flange tool to lap weld it on. Tool works well enough. Got it all mocked up about ready to weld almost.
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Then this happens; AMD Full quarters found in Lula, GA both sides $500 for the pair. I didn’t even try to talk him down, drove 1.5yrs one way to pick them up. What a score.
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Now this changes the game for me with the full quarters. I’ll have to pull the rear glass. I’m sure it’s a pain is the ***. Gasket is shot anyway. Should I upgrade to the 68-69 style with the clips? The locking Mylar stuff broke like glass as I was removing it.
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I would definitely install the later gasket and clips. It may take a bit to get the trim but when you find it you will be ready
 
Did a lot of fabrication on the rear valance, the car was hit on the passenger side and pancake the valance. I spliced and diced, but it’s coming along nicely. Especially not having any auto body experience, I am really developing a craft. I used a paint can to bend metal till I got the perfect contour. That fixed part of valance that I was replacing. I used the harbor freight tool to do a lap joint and I was happy with the results. Not perfect but better than it was. I’m rolling along. Thanks to @barracudakid for selling me that piece of valance.
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My wife and I got the rear glass out today and I’m going to be honest it was way easier than I thought it was going to be and the glass is not as heavy as it looks. I’m storing it standing up and used pool noodles to protect it. No rot or heavy rust around the gasket mating surface so that’s a plus.
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Nice work! As toplscuda mentioned upgrade to 68/9. You will regret not to. You are in the "perfect" spot to do it.
I believe AMD makes the 68/9 trim. Front and rear.
Precision is the only mfg of the OEM style mylar and it will cost you approx $500 a window in mylar alone and could still be problematic(leaks)
 
Nice work! As toplscuda mentioned upgrade to 68/9. You will regret not to. You are in the "perfect" spot to do it.
I believe AMD makes the 68/9 trim. Front and rear.
Precision is the only mfg of the OEM style mylar and it will cost you approx $500 a window in mylar alone and could still be problematic(leaks)
I already have the later trim which is nice, it was just glued on with silicone on the gasket. I just need the later gasket and retaining clips.
 
Make sure to research who makes the proper gasket for 68/9 as well. It might be worth a call to Precision for that as well. Do you have the template for clip location? I have it saved somewhere and can post it.
I already have the later trim which is nice, it was just glued on with silicone on the gasket. I just need the later gasket and retaining clips.
 
Make sure to research who makes the proper gasket for 68/9 as well. It might be worth a call to Precision for that as well. Do you have the template for clip location? I have it saved somewhere and can post it.
I got the template, and it sounds like precision is the way to go. Thank you Sir
 
Hey guys I’m trying to fit this AMD panel and so far a nice fit. However, I’m having trouble at the factory joints. The trunk joint goes under the deck lid right? See photo, I can get that under no problem. But it kind of locks the panel in place. So then I can’t get the top joint at the roof to go under. Does the panel go under or over at the roof? This car had a quarter or two in its life. They brazed them on and was a bear removing all that brass.
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theoretically everything on the top goes on the top to overlap. Like a roof on a house or anything else.
 
Hey guys I’m trying to fit this AMD panel and so far a nice fit. However, I’m having trouble at the factory joints. The trunk joint goes under the deck lid right? See photo, I can get that under no problem. But it kind of locks the panel in place. So then I can’t get the top joint at the roof to go under. Does the panel go under or over at the roof? This car had a quarter or two in its life. They brazed them on and was a bear removing all that brass.View attachment 1715533353 View attachment 1715533354
The quarter definitely goes under the roof, and under the rear deck lid panel as you have it. I ended up slicing the deck lid panel back , and after welding the quarter on seamed it back in place.

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@340_duster, I followed your advice and it worked out great. I got the panel mocked in place ready to start tacking this thing in. What a major victory tackling quarters. The rear valance was fun fitting and making patch panels. Its together now I will finish stitching it all up this week.
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Wow, that quarter looks so much better than the one in your first post. Coming out real nice, your doing a great job.
 
It’s been awhile, I’ll throw up some small progress pics. I been back to working full time, nice to have a job. But puts a rev limiter on progress. So the passenger quarter is on and now doing the drivers. It required me using a piece of the old quarter to shape metal to fix the inner wheel wheel that was rusted. Turned ok from my novice attempt. Still a little more to do.
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I can’t believe it’s been a year already, I figured I’d add some progress. I know my welds are horrible, used crappy bondo-glass, then regular bondo to skim coat the b-glass, top it off with shitty rustoleum primer. All done wrong but turned out alright, good enough for me.
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Denis, the hell you ain't a body man. That looks really good man. I remember when you were heartbroken at the prospect of selling this car and I'm SO glad you kept it. Look at it now! It looks great!
 
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