'05 Hemi ?'s

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jedrattle

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I have an '05 truck hemi I want to put into my '64 Valiant. I understand that they drop valves or valve seats? What/how do I resolve that problem? Also I was told they have weak piston and rods. What company makes a good, affordable set up? The car is a 4spd so it will see some rpms.
 
On the valve seats, verify that it has never been overheated. To resolve, don't over heat. Not being a smart ***. Some people say that the rods will break at random. Not discounting their stories. Usually, some enters the cylinder to make them break. Water, valves, seats, as such. Affordable is a relative term. 1200 to 1600 could cover it. Sky is the limit. Molnar, Manley, Diamond, Ross, the usual suspects. There's a company that advertise on ebag, out of Kansas, that is real reasonableon forged pistons. What kind of rpm do you expect? 6500 and lower you'll be fine. Anything more, I would feel safer with better parts.
 
You can change the heads to the eagle heads or 6.1 heads. I have an 05 that I have put over 30,000 miles on it with the previous 30,000. Hard miles at that with autocross racing in 2 gear most of the time and some high speed road course. From what I understand the valve problem happens when motor runs hot. What intake do you plan on running are you going carbed or factory truck, car, or SRT intake. If going 5.7 car or SRT intake better to get 6.1 heads.
 
Not sure this is relevant, but my sons '04 1500 5.7 has 230,*** miles and purrs like a kitten
 
Why will a 4 speed see more RPM's than an automatic?

According to hypertec, "the safe RPM limit" for your engine is "6200RPM but it stops making power far below that in a stock hemi"
 
I was planning on putting a cam in it and some type of header. Leaving the truck intake/efi, at least for now. I figure the engine will see probably 6500 and less rpms. The reason I say the 4spd/rpm thing is because of the possibility of missed shifts, staying the gear until the last once of power is gone and then shifting, etc.,

I've heard and read a little about changing heads (to eagle style). Do I have to change the accessories to match? I'm trying to do this on a budget. I want the car to be a driver ( LA to Phonenix, etc) I just don't want to blow it up by losing a valve when I could have prevented it. The engine has 42k on it. I heard it run before I bought it 7yrs ago. How do I check to see if it's been overheated?
 
If it’s a budget cam and heads will blow it away. That is a low low mileage motor. Mine is bone stock. With 6.1 intake mainly for looks. Had to buy expensive spacers and alternator and compressor brackets to move them out more for the throttle body clearance. If I had to do it again I would have stayed stock just to save money. The intake was given to me. I drive mine across the country, highways and rush hour traffic in 100+ weather. If it’s for cruising and occasional track I personally think you won’t have any problems. A friend has a 62 Plymouth with the 5.7 05’ and he has clocked over 120k on his used motor. I drive this thing like it was stolen every time I get in it. I don’t need more power it has plenty for me. Thats my 2cents.
 
I had the same worries about the valves too. I keep the oil clean. After 7 years of hauling @$$ in it I’m not worried at all. Hopefully some builders here will chime in that have actually seen the problems first hand. Mine runs about 2300 rpm doing 95 down the highway. It has a rev limiter on it can be changed with tool. Factory I think is about 3800. I don’t see it going over 4500rpm.
 
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If it's a low mile, we'll maintained engine, run it. Keep a regular maintenance schedule. Don't do the "I have Mobil one in it so I can run it 50,000". Every 5,000 at the very least. As loganscuda said, CLEAN oil is your friend.
 
My motor is an 05 car engine, (I’ve swapped to the later coils/valve covers for looks)
Mine has had cam and long tubes with 6.1 valvesprings and pushrods since I first fired it up 4 years ago. It now has Eagle heads and 6.1 intake...

Even with the cam/longtubes it still ran out of power about 5600... I drive it about 1k a year, and race is 4-5 times a year, and drive like a goon pretty frequently when it’s out. I have my limiter set at 6300, and have had it bump off the limiter more than a few times when my auto trans occasionally decides to hold 2nd too long...

Long story short, I agree with these guys if it’s a well maintained motor you’ll be fine running it as is. With the cam just be sure you do springs to match. I wouldn’t worry about forged internals if you’re building a regular street car. Keep the AFRs and timing safe and you’ll be fine... Add boost or nitrous and then I’d worry.

Joe
 
I was planning on putting a cam in it and some type of header. Leaving the truck intake/efi, at least for now. I figure the engine will see probably 6500 and less rpms. The reason I say the 4spd/rpm thing is because of the possibility of missed shifts, staying the gear until the last once of power is gone and then shifting, etc.

YOu are crazy to run any engine you care about, especially one backed by a manual transmission without a rev limiter. That eliminates the whole issue.

As far as revving it until every last amount of power is gone, bad idea, that means you went past peak power and you are on the significant downslide of the power curve and the next gear is in the wrong rPM as well. Dyno the engine or go to the drags, better yet do both. Know where the engine makes power. YOu don't want to stay in it until it's not pulling anymore. Sometimes going past peak RPm is ok depending on what the curve looks like and how fast it falls off. No reason to beat an engine for nothing.
 
On the valve seats, verify that it has never been overheated. To resolve, don't over heat. Not being a smart ***. Some people say that the rods will break at random. Not discounting their stories. Usually, some enters the cylinder to make them break. Water, valves, seats, as such. Affordable is a relative term. 1200 to 1600 could cover it. Sky is the limit. Molnar, Manley, Diamond, Ross, the usual suspects. There's a company that advertise on ebag, out of Kansas, that is real reasonableon forged pistons. What kind of rpm do you expect? 6500 and lower you'll be fine. Anything more, I would feel safer with better parts.

Agree on the valve seats but I have personally witnessed the rod out of the side on an 04 and an 03 Dodge Ram 1500.
#5 and #3 Rods broke clean above the large end of the rod. They were almost at the exact same spot on 2 different engines.
 
Agree on the valve seats but I have personally witnessed the rod out of the side on an 04 and an 03 Dodge Ram 1500.
#5 and #3 Rods broke clean above the large end of the rod. They were almost at the exact same spot on 2 different engines.
Was it oiling, or just for no reason? Just pieces to the puzzle.
 
Was it oiling, or just for no reason? Just pieces to the puzzle.
No reason, religiously maintained. Just accelerated on the highway and pow!!! Broke! Funniest part is that I used his crank, rods and pistons in another block... still running 20k miles later. I wouldn’t be worried.
 
Thanks for the replies!


YOu are crazy to run any engine you care about, especially one backed by a manual transmission without a rev limiter. That eliminates the whole issue.

As far as revving it until every last amount of power is gone, bad idea, that means you went past peak power and you are on the significant downslide of the power curve and the next gear is in the wrong rPM as well. Dyno the engine or go to the drags, better yet do both. Know where the engine makes power. YOu don't want to stay in it until it's not pulling anymore. Sometimes going past peak RPm is ok depending on what the curve looks like and how fast it falls off. No reason to beat an engine for nothing.


Of course I plan to run a rev limiter. I understand what your saying. I'm just saying those are possible reasons for more rpms over an auto.

Any rate, how do I determine if it's ever been overheated? I don't want to be crossing the desert and lose an engine with my 7yr old in the car, when I could have prevented it. I plan a cam of some sort. The 4spd will eventually be replaced by a 6spd.
 
I kinda sense you really want a reason to redo the head. If you want cam do heads along with it. You can do the 6.1 or Eagle. There are several places to get them. Plan your swap from start to finish before you do it. Most of the time if you change something after it’s done it’s gonna cost more. For peace of mind spend the money. Or just leave it The way it is and use that money on a road trip your 7 year old will never forget.
 
I'm not looking to spend money if I don't have to. What goes wrong with the valves? Does it lose a retainer or a valve seat? I would like to prevent it if possible, that's what I'm really after here.
My next real problem is getting the hemi into the early A with the stock suspension! Lol
 
I would definitely replace the thermostat with a 180 degree. Maybe that is why I haven’t seen problems. I think the oem is 190. When I started mine I remember Dave Weber from modern muscle advised me to get the 180 stat
 
Thanks for the replies!





Of course I plan to run a rev limiter. I understand what your saying. I'm just saying those are possible reasons for more rpms over an auto.

Any rate, how do I determine if it's ever been overheated? I don't want to be crossing the desert and lose an engine with my 7yr old in the car, when I could have prevented it. I plan a cam of some sort. The 4spd will eventually be replaced by a 6spd.
during overheating, the seat pockets grow, and the seats drop. That being said I have 4 late model hemi's in my driveway, 2 over 100K, and one with nearly 200K. If you maintain them, they go forever, just like anything else. I'm curious as to what you have in mind "on a budget" for engine management with a cam swap?
 
I have also seen broken valve springs. Getting that into an early a wit stock suspension could be a problem, lol! Haven't tried it personally, but, the general consensus is it can't be done.
 
I agree with Johnny Mac, the main issue is the seats falling out. For peace of mind you could have the seats "pinned" by a machine shop to prevent the seats from falling out. I know some remanufacturers do this on their 03-08 hemi heads, but what I am not sure about is whether this can be done on the original seats or only with new seats. It might be worth looking into.
 
Thank you! That's what I was looking for on the valves. I'll check into having the seats pinned, for peace of mind.

Loganscuda...what radiator did you use?

JohnnyMac... as we all know budget is a relative term. Lol. At the moment, I'm thinking MS Gold box for engine management. I have no idea for the cam.

TinCup said that it would fit but the valve covers could not be removed with the engine in the car. Lol. Of course exhaust would be a complete nightmare. TinCup and Chuckie avoided some problems by going to an Alterkation front end. This allowed them to remove the jump in the inner fender panels and gain clearance. I may stick the hemi in the Studebaker and build up my 360 mag engine to save the hassle. But Hemi Valiant does have a nice ring to it! Lol
 
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