1 barrel carb swap or rebuild?

[72smallairparticler]

My old holley 1920 on my 71 duster 225 auto is causing problems for me.
Runs super rich, idles terrible and eventually stalls then wont start again because it's flooded.
I'm really not interested in taking my time to diagnose it and just would like the fastest path to getting a replacement or doing a full rebuild to get the car running again.

Details on the carb:
- Holley 1920 model
------(number's ive seen on the actual carb are: 96115 (inked on assumedly by the remanufacturer),2311, 6154, and 12R-5153-B
- TJ "remanufactured" unit

Problem is I have NO idea which rebuild kit is appropriate since I can't find these numbers associated with kits.

Also, I'd be happy to just buy a Carter BBS for a 225 auto with compatible linkage setup or really any other carb that would work and bolt on.

Any help would be apprciated

 

[RustyRatRod]

Without diagnosis, how can you confirm it is the carburetor?

 

[WV64Signet]

 

[72smallairparticler]

Yeah i watched that video earlier and looked there, thats where the Tomco Remanufacture sticker is - scraped it off and no numbers underneath the sticker

 

[Brooks James]

There's a brass valve in the metering block that gets hung up, had the same problem with two of them. Wouldn't have another one.

 

[72smallairparticler]

Without diagnosis, how can you confirm it is the carburetor?

percentage guess I suppose. car was running well when last owner took it apart to do an exhaust manifold gasket repair so I inherited it disassembled to a degree. Has a new fuel filter so my assumption is fuel line pre-carb hasn't been meddled with much. Tested for vacuum leaks and haven't found any. Carb looks pretty weathered overall. I'm sure a more experienced mechanical eye might quickly diagnose what else it could be just to make sure but im not a fan of the holley 1920 based on all i've read here. Figured if I can toss a carb upgrade or rebuild at the car and see how she runs, either a quick refresh kit on the 1920 or a fresh Carter BBS 4956s if I can get my hands on one.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well that's a Tomco reman sticker on it. That's one of the top carburetor reman factories in the world. Not saying the carburetor isn't the issue. I'm more of a Carter BBS guy with the slant six. Never been partial to the Holleys......but they can run well. I'm just not patient enough. LMAO.

 

[72smallairparticler]

Well that's a Tomco reman sticker on it. That's one of the top carburetor reman factories in the world. Not saying the carburetor isn't the issue. I'm more of a Carter BBS guy with the slant six. Never been partial to the Holleys......but they can run well. I'm just not patient enough. LMAO.

Same LOL

I yanked off the bowl from the side to check the float and it's working well. I'm no expert at rebuilding or diagnosing carburetors but I do trust you that Tomco is a quality company. Any advice on what I could do to the carburetor to rule it out from being the cause? I just can't figure out what model subversion of the 1920 it is to purchase a rebuild kit so

 

[RustyRatRod]

When it's running really rich, what position is the choke in? If it's stuck closed, that could do it. Try to rule out the simple stuff first.

 

[Bugman]

When it's running really rich, what position is the choke in? If it's stuck closed, that could do it. Try to rule out the simple stuff first.

6154 is the carb number 1972 225 automatic california emissions, 1 1/4 venturi normal is 1 5/16. Wet fuel level 27/32 measured threw economizer diaphragm opening

 

[Bugman]

6154 is the carb number 1972 225 automatic california emissions, 1 1/4 venturi normal is 1 5/16. Wet fuel level 27/32 measured threw economizer diaphragm opening

This sounds like dirt in the needle and seat, which is letting fuel level raise over time. Pull economizer diaphragm off and measure level and let it run in drive way, over about 15 minutes. Fuel level should stay steady, not higher or lower. Higher than 27/32 is rich lower is lean.

 

[RustyRatRod]

6154 is the carb number 1972 225 automatic california emissions, 1 1/4 venturi normal is 1 5/16. Wet fuel level 27/32 measured threw economizer diaphragm opening

What in the sam hill does that have to do with the choke position?

 

[72smallairparticler]

Well I bought a rebuild kit and ran through the internals. It was pretty clean overall. A couple things I noticed. 1) there is no segmentation plate in the bowl that goes in the groves shown in the bowl cover. Is that necessary? 2) the fuel line inlet is different than the one that came with the rebuild kit with the needle

Tomorrow I’m gonna put it back on the car and see how she does.

 

[Bugman]

No baffle plate, well okay guess run with out that may be needed on sharp turns. No float support dampener spring. The spring helps hold the float up. Never ran 1920 with out spring, just the fuel will raise float so should still run. With out spring lower initial float setting at least 1/32 ,after engine running measure fuel level

 

[72smallairparticler]

Well I got running! Not sure what it was honestly but I know the carb is rebuilt now and seems to be running smooth too! Thanks all!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well I got running! Not sure what it was honestly but I know the carb is rebuilt now and seems to be running smooth too! Thanks all!

Well hot dang! Congrats! I never had any luck with them. You're a better man than I!