100 Dollar Hemi!

New Hemi Engine Swaps

  1. Scott's dart

    Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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    I just picked up a Hemi out of a 2011 truck for 100 bucks Canadian so like 75 American! The guy said it was running rough so they replaced it without checking what was wrong! Initial inspection looks good so far but I only had time to take off the valve covers and one head! I know the lifters are known to go bad so that's what I was going to check first! Any other reasons it would run rough that anyone can think of? Either way I was willing to take the bet for just 100 bucks! Lol
     
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    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      check valve height without rockers. if they are all even using a straight edge, your good on a common dropped valve seat.
       
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      • Scott's dart

        Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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        I thought that was the earlier Hemis? Or did it happen on the Eagles as well?
         
      • rumblefish360

        rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away

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        Doesn’t matter. It’s a quick and easy check.

        Great score! Best of luck!
         
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        • missing linc

          missing linc Loose nut behind the wheel FABO Gold Member

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          Sweet score!
           
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          • 408 swinger

            408 swinger FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Way more common on the early. 100 to 1 it's the camshaft. Super common on the Eagles. Either that, or, maybe it just needed a tune up!!! Lol, I doubt it. The valve tips are probably wore a little. Common with 150 plus thousand miles. All in all, you did well. You could sell the heads(why would you?!!), and get four times your money back.
             
          • Scott's dart

            Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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            Thanks everyone for the input! I just about bought one for 1300 on Wednesday so i guess good things come to those who wait!
             
          • famous bob

            famous bob mopar misfit FABO Gold Member

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            LOL , I`m still waiting !
             
          • 408 swinger

            408 swinger FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I'm guessing for 1300, that one is in a lot better condition!
             
          • Scott's dart

            Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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            Yeah maybe, but with buying stuff from random people on the internet it's much easier to take a 100 gamble over a 1300 dollar one! Lol
             
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            • Hellcat Cuda

              Hellcat Cuda Well-Known Member

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              Yes, most likely a bad lifter / cam lobe (or more) situation. FCA was replacing cams / lifters for the longest time, but more recently I've been told they are now replacing the whole engine. Also been told they've fixed the problem on '18 up 5.7s. We'll see...
               
            • Scott's dart

              Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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              I finally got around to taking out apart and here's the culprit! It was on cylinder 3! Hopefully that's the only thing wrong with it! 15815439920581685828725506454509.jpg
               
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              • 408 swinger

                408 swinger FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Tear it down and thouroghly clean it. Chances are good the bearings are good yet. Has been my experience, anyway. Good luck!
                 
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                • Scott's dart

                  Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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                  So I haven't seen much about this part, from what I gather it's the oil control valve for VVT and MDS? I plan on using a Holley Terminator and deleting all that stuff, do I still need the oil control valve? IMG_20200212_203858~2.jpg
                   
                • 408 swinger

                  408 swinger FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  It is the oil control valve for the VVT. The MDS is the other four solenoids that you removed already. No you wouldn't need it. You'll have to lock the cam phaser(upper cam gear, it's three main pieces) to prevent timing issues. Stanke Motorsports makes a billet plug for the VVT valve. Or just reuse the actual valve as a plug. Make sure you use the NON-MDS plugs for their respective cavaties.
                   
                • Scott's dart

                  Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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                  Okay great! Thanks!!
                   
                • Scott's dart

                  Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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                  Here's the wasted lobe, the cam bearings and main bearings are also shot, I only took one rod bearing off and it looked good but I may just replace everything. What brand bearings do you guys prefer? And I've been seeing that the factory used lots of different bearings, is there a particular one I need? IMG_20200213_162417.jpg IMG_20200213_162539.jpg
                   
                • 408 swinger

                  408 swinger FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  That's pickled! For bearings, I've used factory, Engine-Tech, and Clevite. Had luck with all. Pick one for your budget and intended purpose of the engine. Be sure to measure journals to know where you're at.
                   
                • Scott's dart

                  Scott's dart Well-Known Member

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                • Cazbah362

                  Cazbah362 Well-Known Member

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                  Not sure the intent of the build. One thing is, the Eagle 5.7 falls on it face about 6,100 rpm in stock form, this I know from past experience.

                  I really like the 274 cam, and if I was going max power or had to buy a $500 cam, that would be my route.

                  However, my goal was best dollar to HP, so I chose the factory Mopar 6.4 stick cam non-MDS 05037379BC. I called Arrington and ordered the spring kit to match. These where about the same price as what you listed. This cam works nice with factory VVT and all factory parts (less springs kit, but back to what 408 said, inspect and rebuild heads - I agree and feel this was a must for my motor). Make sure you select correct lifters as well (non-MDS), I used these: Melling Factory Hydraulic Roller Lifters JBK-7521. Note, this factory cam is close to the cam you listed in specs. This cam should be about $275 now if you shop around.

                  One thing I would recommend is you gap your rings for power adder, even if you do not intend to add one at this time. Nitrous, turbos and superchargers go well on these, and with it cracked open, this is a perfect opportunity to build for the future. - my .02 cents.

                  And strangely, I like the VVT, all the computers out there manage them, extra bonus... again my .02 cents - This would change if I was going max power or with 274 cam - then its locked -
                   
                  Last edited: Feb 15, 2020 at 10:44 AM
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