Home > General Automotive Topics > Members Restorations > 1963 Dart 170 2 Door Post Resto

1963 Dart 170 2 Door Post Resto

  1. I have been on here a little bit and decided it's time to start a rest thread. Back story will be followed by lots of pics

    I bought my dart back in the end of April. I was looking for a car that was for the most part solid and that wouldn't take a few years to get on the road. (already have a 60 bel air 2dr sport coupe for that :) ). After missing out on a few great deals and quite a few "not as advertised specials" I came across this Dart. It is originally from Nevada and was brought up to Canada a number of years back by a gentleman that had big plans for it. However, after the transport company lost control of it when unloading it and it rolled under the front of a transport trailer smashing the rear glass and damaging the roof a bit he lost interest. It sat in his paint booth for a number of years. The person I bought it from was a buddy of his and bought it from him and started picking at it (luckily bagging most parts and labeling them as he removed them) but never got very far. No doubt the difficulty of finding a rear glass up here stall him as well, not to mention numerous other projects and him being 72 years old, something had to go.

    My wife and I went to look at it and I had never seen a 63 Dart so it was a little different. The more I looked at it the more I liked the look. My wife actually told him we'd take it before I totally made my mind up telling me we weren't going to find one more solid and she liked the different look of it too. I paid more than I should have but up here its near impossible to find as clean of a car to start with that has never been molested.

    The car still sports its original paint and shows about 65000 original miles iirc. It had the original slant 6 170 with pushbutton trans and no options at all besides the heater. The person that brought it up from Nevada at some point removed the intake. Guy I got it from said to replace the carb as it was bad. I found out different after I got it home. Wound up being the frost plugs had all been removed. I was concerned at first but found one of the originals in the trunk corroded through. 3 brand new ones also in same box. new intake gasket included as well. Once in installed the new plugs and reinstalled the intake and starter it didn't take long to fire it up. Carb works fine. Guess it was all done just for frost plugs. After not running for who knows how long it started easily and idled great.

    I'll add more in different posts to try to go sort of step by step to where I am now.

    Dart as found.jpg



    intake studs removed.jpg

    port cleanup.jpg


    intake installed.jpg

    floor bottom.jpg

    under rear.jpg

    under trunk.jpg
  2. So in the process of getting it running I broke off an intake stud. (kept going to see if it would run to see if it was worth the work to remove and replace it). As it ran good and all signs looked good I removed the intake again and replaced all the studs, adding a coat of red paint to keep it all from rusting again and make cleanup later easier.

    I found a set of 14" steelies and already had a couple original dog dish caps in the rear so I found more and got rid of the rallies. Prefer the old school look anyway. (they will be painted to match the car later).

    I also got bored one day and polished up a fender to see what would happen and it came up pretty good. May run it this way next summer if I don't get far enough to get the outside painted.

    Replaced all the brake wheel cylinders and rubber lines as well as master cylinder and front wheel bearings and grease seal while I was at it. Brake shoes look new so I ran with them.

    engine 3.jpg

    engine 2.jpg

    before polish.jpg

    after polish.jpg



    new wheels.jpg
  3. Next step was to remove the interior to get it ready for the upholstery shop. There was one door panel missing, so I decided to make new door cards from hardboard to have nice and straight panels. Seats are rough but the springs are in perfect shape, still having all of their black paint showing and no broken springs. I also ordered a pile of new parts as well. New gasket set to refresh engine gaskets and seals, seals for the transmission and pan gasket, new rad hoses and belt, all new filters, new battery, new gas tank and sending unit as the old one was so full of crap it was the safest way to go.

    Also polished up a bit more of the car as well.


    rear seat.jpg

    old door panel backer.jpg

    new rear panel 2.jpg

    door panel 2.jpg

    door panel1.jpg

    pass polished.jpg

    more polished.jpg

  4. At this point I decided to pull the engine and transmission and clean the interior to get it ready to mount on my rotisserie I built last winter. This would make cleaning the bottom of the car easier. Will also go through the engine and transmission while it's out. Cleaned the interior and trunk as well. Surprised how clean the spare is as well.

    In the one pic of a close up of the right channel in the trunk you will see the only rust I have found anywhere on the car besides surface. About the size of the tip of a pen. If that's all I find I will be very happy. Looks really good thus far

    Made new mounts to mount the car to the rotisserie as the others were made generic.

    floor inside.jpg

    rear seat area.jpg

    trunk floor.jpg

    trunk floor 2.jpg


    rotisserie mount 1.jpg

    rotisserie mount 2.jpg

    rotisserie mount 3.jpg

    rotisserie mount 4.jpg

    dart mounts painted.jpg
  5. The one big issue I ran into with the car was the rear glass and area around it. One of the previous owners cut out the brace to do hammer and dolly work to the roof to straighten it out and lost the brace. The repair to the inner sail panel brace isn't as good as I like either. Will have to address those later. I did manage to fine a brace in a junk yard near me as well as the missing headliner bows and a couple other pieces that were lost over the years. I was able to locate the rear window stainless and rear glass from a guy in Texas. He shipped it up to New York and I just popped over the border and picked it up

    back window 2.png

    back window 1.jpg
  6. So now we are pretty much up to present day. I mounted the car to the rotisserie last night and got it up in the air. I wasn't able to get it as balanced as good as I like due to not removing the rear differential. I will probably remove it shortly but just wanted to see how it would turn with it still in. Only take about 15-20 minutes to remove anyway.

    Got the car tuned on its side and started cleaning the bottom a bit with a wire wheel to see how it would clean up. Only holes in floor are 4 holes that were added for seat belts. Why they didn't use the factory holes I'll never know. They also just used a big punch to make the holes and never drilled them. This is actually a good thing as I can fold the metal back into place and with minimal welding the hole will be just a memory.

    Dart mounted 1.jpg

    Dart mounted 2.jpg

    Dart bottom 1.jpg

    Dart bottom 2.jpg

    inner fender.jpg

    Seat belt hole 1.jpg

    seat belt hole 2.jpg
  7. Looks great! And thanks again for sending the pictures of the trans line routing. Helped me a ton! Keep posting pics as you progress.
  8. A little more progress this week. Got half of the floor cleaned and primed. Welded shut the punched seat belt holes. Cleaned out the original stone guard undercoating in one wheel well. Have good quality new stone guard to apply later. Rear valance was creased and pushed in on one side so I got that mostly straightened... Really happy with how it came out. Have the car flipped over ready to do the rest of the other side. Then I can prime it and let the primer cure for a couple days before applying stone guard and then paint. Hard to see how bad valance was before but it was creased right at the ridge and pushed in a good inch or more.








  9. I absolutely love having this rotisserie. I can't imagine doing this job without one. I can just sit on the rolling stool my son got me for Christmas and clean away. No wear and tear on my back. Flipping car over was real easy too. A one man job... Once I remembered to loosen the lock bolts at the tubes on either end... lol .
  10. Loving the 63 man, you are doing a real good job!
  11. Thanks, I appreciate the compliments. It really helps to have a solid car to begin with.

    Got a little further today. Almost finish priming the bottom and repaired the only rust hole I could find.

    bottom almost finished.jpg

    rust hole.jpg

    rust repair.jpg
  12. I agree, my 62 was rock solid, it was nice not having any rust issues to deal with. But I had to do all the underside work on my back.
  13. I sure hope you're going back with the factory color! I love that Light Aqua!!!
  14. Probably not going back original. Looking for something a little different. I am thinking along the line of a different shade of green with matching rims and poverty caps with gunmetal gray dash and metal parts inside with black carpet, headliner, seats and door panels. I have also picked up a 68 camaro front bumper to modify to fit the front of this as I'm not a huge fan of the original front bumper with the pushouts under the headlights. Will also be painting the headlight bezels to match the car. Saw it done on a beige GT and liked how it looked.

    Here is a today pic of the car. Haven't been getting out at it as much as I'd like as I was truck shopping last week. Got bottom half painted so far. Really slow going. Using tremclad semi-gloss black on the bottom applying with a foam brush heavy to get a nice thick protective layer and yet have a smooth factory looking finish. Have done this before and it holds up really well to rocks and elements. Fun getting into all the little nooks and crannies though. Paint self levels leaving no brush marks so the finish comes out really nice.

    Before applying paint I sprayed the wheel wells and area behind with a good quality rock guard. Applied 3 good coats to ensure good coverage. Stuff actually goes on a lot smoother than the old style rock guard so it's hard to tell it's even there.
    floor half done.jpg
  15. Considering this as a possible color. It is a Lexus color called Nori Green Pearl. Excuse the Lexus for the purists.

    nori green pearl.jpg
  16. Making a little more progress. My work is shut down for the next couple weeks so I hope to make some pretty good headway.

  17. Just got notified we are not staying back up until beginning of may so looks like I'll have some time at the car. Got the rear differential cleaned up and new seals and gasket (already went through the brakes) and new bushings and bolts in the leaf springs. Also started cleaning up the engine and replaced the rear seal and prepped it for new gaskets. Waiting on new timing gear and chain to come in. Also bought a new water pump as they are cheap and this has been dry for many years so I figure the seal is probably dried up in the impeller. Still plan to pull the head and redo the valves and replace the upper seals and gaskets, then once it's all cleaned and resealed, apply a nice coat of fresh paint. Happy with how things are finally moving along. Hope to have the entire drive line gone through and the bottom of the car all painted before returning to work.

    Engine is really clean inside... If you didn't look in the base pan... It was nasty! Looks much better now





  18. Motor almost done. Fuel tank painted and sending unit installed. Used the lock ring from the old tank as recommended on here (thanks for that tip by the way). New timing gear and chain installed in engine, all new gaskets and seals, valves lapped and cold set (will be readjusted hot when it's installed), new fuel pump and water pump as they were cheap for good brand and cheap insurance.

    Either onto transmission next or finish cleaning and painting front suspension. Hope to have it back on its wheels with the entire drive train and bottom side of car done before too much longer.

    Going to slow down a bit again soon as may be back to work as soon as next week. We'll see.



  19. These are wonder pictures. Do you have a place to get the headliner and door panels?
  20. Headliner I found on eBay. Got a good price on it too. I'll see if I can find the seller and see if he has any more and send you the link. As for door panels I made new door panel cards from hardboard and my upholstery guy is going to do them when he does my seats. Hoping he opens up again shortly so I can drop that off to be done.
  21. Or maybe F8 met. dark gren,a '69 Mopar color????? Looks bout the same? pretty color either way!
  22. Yeah, my other choice right now is the new version of F8 green that comes on the Durango and challenger. Really like that one too
  23. I was looking at your build and it looks great. Your color choice looks like, "Tincup's" Dart build (if i remember correctly). It looked pretty nice that color.

    ( Just looked up Tincup's build again and your color is different and I'll bet it will look great on your Dart.)
  24. So another update. Bottom of car completely painted. Came out pretty good in my opinion. Gas tank installed and transmission finished. Opted not to paint the transmission itself, just the pan, dipstick and brackets Just need to clean and pain the driveshaft and install new ujoint and the driveline is finished and ready to reinstall once the roof is fixed up and the engine bay cleaned and painted.

    Back to work now so things have slowed down a bit, that and the fact that I burned through all my parts stash over the shutdown. More on the way now. New steering box kit from firm feel (thanks to a member on here suggesting them...thanks again by the way), new seal and foam kit for my heater box and vent as well as new hoses and dash vents, and new seal for the steering column. waiting to get it torn down to see what I need to order in ways of turn signal switch and such.

    Floor bottom finished.jpg

    tank install 2.jpg

    tank install.jpg

    transmission finished 1.jpg

    transmission finished 2.jpg

    transmission pan and dipstick.jpg

    transmission yolk.jpg
  25. I really like this car and I love what your doing with it. But I have to be honest, I wouldn't pant it... And if I did it would be that same sea foam green, I just love that color on that car...!
    Keep up the good work buddy..
  26. A little more progress. Still waiting on shrinking disc to show up to do the needed work on rear of roof before putting car back on its wheels so I decided to start on the inside of the car floor while it was still at a nice level to work on. got the heater box rebuilt and the replacement drivers vent box soaking in PB blaster to free up one stuck pivot. Flushed out the heater core (lots of muddy crap came out) until only clean water came out. Has really good flow so I'm happy with that.

    Cleaned up the drivers floor down to bare metal to remove the surface rust in the front floor pan. Only found one tiny pin hole so I'm happy with that. Bad thing is after welding I will have to touch up the bottom of the car again. Not a big deal but didn't see that one coming. Primed floor with etching primer and once the entire floor is finished I can hit it with epoxy or hi-build and then a coat of paint. Not sure if I'm going to go body color or just a good sealing coat as it will be under the carpet and this is after all going to be a driver, not a show car. also looking at adding sound deadening so paint really will never be seen again. Just want a nice layer of corrosion protection. The body is nice and clean and want to keep it that way.

    Next week I hope to get the body outside and use my wet sandblaster to tape off and blast the engine bay. Then a good cleaning and drying and a coat of etching primer to protect it from flash rust before I can get it painted.

    Heater box rebuilt.jpg

    drivers floor stage 1.jpg

    Drivers floor stage 2.jpg

    Drivers floor primed.jpg

    floor inside.jpg
  27. Got the engine bay wet sandblasted. Took only 15 minutes and less mess... Not no mess, just less...lol. Came out good and worked great. Only issue was the flash rust. Easily taken care of with a wire wheel then a good coat of etching primer. A coat of sealer primer tomorrow, then paint on Thursday. Finally decided on color. Going with the 2019 version of F8 green with a gunmetal and black interior with steelies painted body color. Should look good.









  28. Paint applied. Got a few runs that I'm not happy with but good enough for an engine bay. High humidity made the paint take longer to dry thus run easier. Not bad for a driver though.

  29. Before you go with the body color steelies, try it with the rally wheels as a contrast to your green. I think you may be surprised how it looks, just my.02.
  30. So got some time in the shop again this week. Making some decent progress on the rear roof area. When car was brought up from Nevada by the previous owner they lost control of the car during off load and it rolled under the front of a transport trailer damaging the roof and breaking the back glass.

    The owner was a body man and straightened out the roof a bit but it was still really wavy and had lots of oil canning going on. Not to mention the inner upper roof brace/rear glass structure was badly damaged and subsequently thrown out. The sail panel inner structure was also not too good but was sort of repaired and reinstalled.

    From what I gather they couldn't find a proper donor for the brace or back glass so the car sat until he gave up on it entirely, which is where I came in.

    I bought myself a shrinking disc and went to work on the rear roof. I found a 65 dart and cut the rear rook section out. Luckily the upper brace is the same as 63. The sail inner is different however, but had what I needed to make it work. I got the roof pretty close with no more oil canning and pretty smooth. Still have a bit of a high spot near the front of the primed section that I have to work on where the metal was pushed up when the roof was pushed forward. Should be able to get away with next to no filler when I am done.

    I cut out the inner brace of the sail panel again and reworked it into much better shape matching the original and have begun grafting pieces of the window opening from the 65 part I cut into it. Had to reshape the curve due to the different size back glass but that wasn't too bad at all.

    At this point I have the upper brace all cleaned up and spot welds removed to remove old roof material from the 65 and ready to install in the 63. Have one small piece of the grafting complete. Just have to cut off excess material from the remainder and graft it in as well.

    Once this is all done and the back glass is confirmed for fitment I can finally get the car back on its wheels and focus on body/interior/paint. Sorry for the long winded post.

    back window 1 edit.jpg

    back window 2 edit.png

    roof rework 1.jpg

    roof rework 2.jpg
  31. More pictures. I'm not a professional by any means. This is the first time I have ever tried a shrinking disc. I really like the results. Same for the roof brace repair. I'm not an expert but enjoy metal work so I decided to give it a go.

    roof rework 3.jpg

    roof rework 4.jpg

    roof rework 5.jpg

    roof rework 6.jpg

    metal graft 1.jpg

    inner structure removed.jpg

    metal graft 2.jpg

    test fit 1.jpg

    test fit 2.jpg
  32. WOW!
  33. ---
    They make the job far easier and better. Careful if you happen to be working inside the trunk while being on the rotisserie and the lock bolts don't hold.. Been there and it goes around real fast...lol. After that I installed a safety chain going both ways.
  34. Nice pictures of some nice work. I too like metal working. I get a lot of satisfaction from it.
  35. If you see the picture of the back of my car you will note the ring with the holes in it. I have one on either end that positively locks the car in whatever position I put it in with a 1 inch pin. I wouldn't trust getting inside with only the bolt at either end keeping my heavy butt from flipping it while I'm inside...lol. I can imagine the surprise that gave you.
  36. Thanks. I find it very relaxing, at least when it isn't a rush that needs to be done...lol. I just take my time and before you know it a couple hours have passed. I'm getting better bit by bit, never expect to be a pro, but am proud of the progress I am making.

    Got a little farther today. Got the curve grafted in and cleaned up. Only have a 5-6 inch section to add to make it complete. Could get away with what I have but don't want to stop halfway when I've made this much progress. Should make for a better finished product. Even if you will never see it. :)

    Did another test fit and really happy with how everything is lining up. Still have to get the inner brace remnants out of the drivers side brace, but the upper lines up perfect so far. Looks like I'm on the home stretch with this part of the repair

    inner structure repair.jpg

    inner structure repair 2.jpg

    test fit 3.jpg

    test fit 4.jpg
  37. ---
    I sprawled out like a cat over a pail of water, ended up staying in the trunk face down looking at the floor when it stopped. Tools flew everywhere.
  38. Finally got some time to get back at the Dart recently. Made some really good progress. Worked with the shrinking disc I go the last bulge out of the roof panel. Looking from the rear and side it has the correct lines again.

    Got the pillar brace finished up and welded it and the upper brace back in and for the first time in many years the rear window of this car is whole again (minus glass of course but that will come after paint). Actually went in pretty good and now the lines look proper. Not bad if I do say so for not having a 63 to see in person to know the exact shape of the window opening. I had a 65 to confirm roof line to know what I needed to do but the rear window brace and opening were all guess work. Happy with the results

    Also did a little more hammer and dolly work on the pillar to get it ready for body work. Looks pretty good but will need a skim coat over most I figure, but will be pretty thin, probably less than 1mm with the exception of the weld seam

    Rear window repair 3.jpg

    Rear window repair.jpg

    Rear window repair 2.jpg

    Rear window cleaned up ready for body.jpg

    Rear window repair 4.jpg
  39. Got the body work started too. Did a number of very thin skim coats to shape the pillar as close as I could to original. Chrome fits real nice now and it's almost ready for primer. Maybe one more very thin skim coat of fiberglass to get it perfect. (using short strand fiberglass instead of bondo as it's stronger. A little more difficult to work with but worth the results).

    I'm slow doing body work but it's coming back to me. Still have the "feel" for finding highs and lows though. A little too picky for my own good. The last car I did was a beetle and kept feeling what felt like ripples in the body work and finally said the heck with it and had it painted and couldn't see any when it was done...just picking up on minute imperfections that wouldn't show up in paint.

    Also got my new muffler today. Found this on Amazon and took a chance on it. Seems to get good reviews. I wanted something a little louder than stock. I had to get reducers to match the original pipe as the smallest diameter inlet/outlet I could get was 2". I may be upgrading the exhaust later anyway. Muffler looks great and welds are super clean and it looks to be very well built and heavy duty. We will see how it sounds and holds up. Not bad for less than $60cdn.

    Body work started.jpg

    Body work started 2.jpg

    Body work started 3.jpg

    Body work started 4.jpg

    New muffler.jpg
  40. First coat of high build. Still needs a little fine tuning, but not bad for not having done body work in 6-7 years

    first coat of hight build 2.jpg

    first coat of hight build 3.jpg
  41. Geez, I need to get mine done. You are making me look like a slacker!
  42. Curious if you had access to the wet blaster why not blast the bottom with it on its side?
  43. I highly doubt my progress could ever make you look like a slacker...lol.
  44. Never had a pressure washer strong enough at the time to run my wet blaster when I was working on the bottom. Mainly used it on engine compartment due to all the tight spaces I couldn't have gotten to otherwise. I had never used one before and was amazed with the results. Mind you next time it will be done entirely outside due to the mass amount of sand and water. Only downside of it was the flash rust as soon as it started drying, even after being blown off with compressed air and wiped (due to high humidity of blasting process). Cleaned off super easy though.
  45. Would you mind showing us your setup for wet blasting?
  46. Sure. It's just a blasting attachment that replaces the tip on the basting wand. I used a 3100psi pressure washer with a 7hp motor. It says it needs to be higher GPM but mine worked great with 2.3GPM. You just install the tip in place of the wand tip and run the hose to a bucket of media and away you go. It comes with the metal feed tube as well. Just have to make sure you keep the bucket as far away as you can to keep from getting the media wet and clogging tube. I had any issues. Just had to keep moving the tube around a bit as it uses media fairly quick. I just had my wife move the tube around as I worked and she topped up the bucket as we went. Went pretty quick and smooth.

    here's a link to the one I used. Got it on sale for pretty cheap. Amazon sells them as well. Different name but looks to be identical setup

    Pressure Washer Abrasive Blasting Kit | Princess Auto

    I'll try to get a picture later.

    Attached is a photo of the pressure washer I used

  47. cool I would have never thought that would work well but I guess I never thought the cheap HF dry blasters would work as well as they do.
  48. I was skeptical as well, but got the blaster attachment cheap on sale and pressure washer given to me by a buddy, just needed new pump. Pressure washer is obviously good all the way around but kept my setup cheap. Was super impressed with how easily it removed the paint with much less back in my face. Just got wet when I hit a corner and it sprayed right back on me. Only went through a couple bags of media and about 15 minutes work. If I had prepped a little better I probably could have caught a large portion of the media to dry out and reuse.
  49. No new progress to report as I'm taking a few days to get a shed built for the wife. It's a win win as she gets her shed, I get a bunch of garden/yard tools out of my garage to make more room to work. Had the garage door open as it was such a nice evening and couldn't help but take this shot of the back of the car. Super happy with how the roof lines look. If you saw this car when I brought it home you wouldn't believe it was the same car...especially since I am far from an expert at this. There's a small bow to the C pillar on the passenger side that isn't on the drivers side but it isn't apparent unless you are looking from side to side to see any difference so I am fine with it. Its going to be a driver anyway. Once it's painted and the trim is installed I don't think it will show anyway. I am just too critical of my own work is all.

    Rear view.jpg
  50. Finally got some time to get back at the car this weekend. I got the passenger side rear quarter sanded as well as the door. Pulled the tail lights and the upper rear quarter chrome and door handle, along with the side body stainless. used my stud gun to pull a couple larger dents in the lower corners and one smaller one in the rear quarter as well as smaller ones around the rear wheel well. Looks like previous owner drove by braille. There was a line on both sides where they side swiped something, not bad but enough to notice. Hoping if the week goes well I can get the passenger side finished and ready for sealer an high build by the weekend, but time will tell.

    quarter sanded.jpg
  51. I am still impressed by your efforts! It looks great.
  52. Thanks
  53. Got a little further tonight. Got most of the passenger side sanded. Still have to sand inside the door and adjust it slightly but plan to do the body work needed and get it in sealer. Need to pull a couple dents in the fender a little better than I'm ready for a thin skim coat to smoothen everything out. Every step forward is a step forward.

    Kinda wishing now I had pulled the trigger and got the entire car media blasted when I started but a little late now...lol. got a lot of block sanding in my future. :)



  54. So, had a little hiatus away from the car, with getting everything ready for Christmas and all, along with lots of hours at work. Finally got some time to get back at the car.

    Decided to go a little different route than originally planned...the proper route you might say. I was going to sand one side, do all the body work, then seal that side, then move onto the next side, and so on. After more research I have decided the best route is to sand the entire car, pull the dents to the best of my ability (and patience :) ), then put the entire car in epoxy primer, then do the body work, then hi-build, then seal. I was originally taught to do body work on well scuffed bare metal. The more I read and agree it is best to epoxy the car to seal moisture away from the metal before applying the skim coat of filler, thus that is how I have decided to proceed. I know there is still debate on this but this is how I am going)

    got the drivers rear quarter, rocker and lower door sanded now, and did some work with the stud gun dent puller on the drivers door. When I got the car, as I have mentioned before it appears a previous owner drove by braille, thus a long approximately 1/8" deep dent in the drivers door...crease and all. After a couple passes with the puller and hits with the shrinking disc to bring down the high spots I got it to where I am happy with it. I could possibly get it a little better but it will only take the thinnest coat of filler now to fill the small dents in between where I pulled the panel. The rest of the body line of the panel is near perfect, which is better than I expected or hoped for. Only a few more small dents to pull and the car will be ready for body once its sanded and primed, only needing the thinnest coat of filler to get it nice and straight. The rear roof line is where the most work will be needed, but's already a good ways along already. Can't wait to see this thing in epoxy. If I realized earlier I would have just sent the entire car off to be media blasted in the first place, but you know how original plans always snowball...lol. This was originally supposed to be get it drivable and enjoy it while working on my other projects and do this one later....well too late for that now.

    Shown is the dent before, then dent with the etching primer wet to see if the panel shape was correct (shows the little remaining dents) and after

    Any way, sorry for the long winded post. Hopefully more pics to come soon with less and less blue and a lot more grey.

    Drivers quarter.jpg

    Dent before.jpg

    Dent Repair 2.jpg

    Dent repair 1.jpg

    Dent repair 3.jpg
  55. So, once again it looks like plans have changed, or evolved if you will. As I was sanding the roof last night and was nearing another milestone of being ready for epoxy, the car sort of spoke to me. All I could hear in my head was "if you've come this far, maybe you're willing to come a little further". So now I've decided to pull the hood and trunk lid as well as the doors to do a proper cleaning and sanding of the jambs and underside of the panels. Today I will be sourcing the tubing to make my own panel stands...way cheaper than buying new, and can build them stronger and better this way.

    This is not the first time I changed plans for the car...

    When first purchasing it the main goal was get it running and driving and safe, go through the drive train and make sure it was all good. Then repair the back window area and get that area sealed and primed and install new back glass. Then clean interior and drive it while working on my other project car, then do a full redo on this one. My, how things have changed, lol.

    Now, I have already completely gone through the entire drive train, rebuilding and repainting pretty much everything that was even slightly worn, or would be difficult to do later, gone through entire fuel system, rebuilt heater box, and stripped, cleaned and painted the bottom end of the car and engine bay. Interior has been gutted partially (more to come later) and wiring gone through with new connectors, bulkhead connector included. Also doing a full color change on the car. I have also now sanded the majority of the car. By the time I'm done the only part that wont have been removed is the K frame and front fenders...for now. Keep in mind, I am no expert and do this for a hobby, so this will not be a concours restoration by any means, just a nice clean driver to drive and enjoy. So yes, more than once I have heard the car speak to me, asking if you've come this far, maybe you are willing to come a little further...thus I'm thinking I may have to start calling this car project Shawshank. Who knows, maybe by the time I'm done I'll be making a run to Zihuatanejo. Here's hoping this letter finds you , and finds you well...lol.

    Until next time. More to come...
  56. do it now, have no regrets and you can keep driving it confidently while working on your other project.
  57. I have a soft spot for the 63 Darts since my first Mopar was a 63 270 car, keep up the good work.
  58. Little by little making more progress again. And again, more parts pulled off for better access to clean and paint. Found parts stands at eastwood for $46cdn delivered so I ordered 4 of those instead of making them. Got the dash pulled and the bulkhead connector replaced. Cleaned up the wiring and it's in great shape. Just have to replace one cracked connector. Got the outside of the car almost completely sanded. Now comes the fun part of sanding inside the doors and such. Also pulled the windshield and cleaned the channel. Found one small rust spot that will need a bit of welding but very small. The cowl vents as far as I can tell are Rock solid quick is great news.




  59. Nice work! I've enjoyed reading this. Yep, that's how mine always go, I plan to do a quick fix and get them on the road and then $5,000 later... ha
  60. A little more progress. Not a lot as life always gets in the way. Got the drivers door pulled and most of the door frame sanded... Baby steps.

    Also finished a little side project...a dock traffic light my sister in law have me a couple years ago. I installed a timer and wired it to switch every minute. Made a mount and put it up on the wall. Has a switch wired in so I can turn it off when I leave the shop





  61. Getting a little more done each day. I haven't gotten a huge amount of time the last week or so due to shift work, but did get 5 or so hours out there Saturday (wasn't planned that long but we all know how time can get away from you in the shop...the wife had to come get me at 8pm for supper...lol). Got the inside roof all cleaned up from the surface rust. Ready for epoxy then sound deadening. Also welded up a couple cracks I found (one on each pillar behind either door...no bends, just a hairline crack) and then a patch for the drivers cowl vent.

    At first glace it looked like a small pin hole (note the copper plate put behind it to do a "quick tack weld repair") turned into a moderate sized patch. All of the surface rust brown spots were paper thin and when you shone a light into the vent you could see light all over. Not totally unexpected. Even though its a Nevada car, it has sat a while and critters did make nests in the cowl that I had to clean out. Surprisingly the drains were nice and clear though. I didn't do a fancy job on the patch as it was a multi contour piece that will never be seen behind the shift unit and the and above the vent. Just needs to be water proof. Still have a bunch of cleanup and touch ups to do on the welds as my OCD won't let it stay this way, and had to chase a couple welds at the "top" of the patch (actually bottom as car is currently upside down) where I hit a couple more thin spots I missed initially. Also access was poor and time yesterday was very limited. Should look pretty good when I'm done, but most importantly, solid and weatherproof.

    Not a huge amount of progress, but every step forward is a step forward right? At least that's what I keep telling myself.

    Also decided I'm going to take the doors and hood and trunk lid to a buddy local to media blast the inside (and probably complete the outside as well while he's at it to save me the time of sanding all the nooks and crevices. That'll put me that much closer to epoxy primer.

    Inner roof before.jpg

    Inner roof after.jpg

    Drivers cowl vent repair.jpg

    Cowl vent repair.jpg

    And the Saga continues...
  62. Great work! just think if you had to pay someone to do this.
  63. Like your upside down pictures. It gives you a different perspective on things.
  64. i think it's on a rotisserie, stuff in the background is the right way up.
  65. Yeah I know that, lol. It's just seeing it from different angles is what I like.:)
  66. Well, did some finish work on the repair I made in the vent area... Then I found it's big brother:wtf:.
    The area just beneath the windshield up to the curve was full of little pinholes and bigger holes up by the windshield. Luckily the were inside only.

    Cut out the corner brace for better access and welded in a larger piece to make it all solid again. Hardest part was getting into the opening advices the kick panel. Took a lot of work but solid now. Only issue is due to where where the metal meets the windshield frame is where the lead is at the panel join. You can guess where I'm going with this. Due to the heat from joining the metal patch in I melted out sooner of the lead. No biggie as I cleaned it up and will use fiberglass to fill it back in.

    Primer reacted a bit so will have to sand and reapply but overall came out pretty good. Even got the corner brace welded back in.

    Hopefully that's the last of the welding on the entire car




  67. Got some more done today. Sanded and reprimed my cowl repair today. Really happy with how it came out. Too bad you'll never see it once done...lol. Cleaned up the passenger floor today and got part of it in etch primer. Just the rear floor under seat area and trunk to do and one door opening, then onto hand sanding for the remainder, then finally into epoxy. Slow going but every step forward is a step forward. Oh, and yes, car is finally up right again :p


  68. Looking good. Ya got a good record of your repairs going so you don't have to worry about never seeing your nice work that's buried under the carpet again, lol.
  69. Huge score today. I took a chance on an eBay listing last week for new carpet for a 63-66 dart. Said it was made by trim parts in black. Not much else said. Part number was listed but couldn't find a match on line. Had a buy it now of $13. Thought something was wrong but figured what the heck, is only $13 plus shipping. Carpet came today and I'm really happy I took the chance. Top quality carpet with backing attached. Fits great, just will have to trim off the excess.

    I'd never heard of trim parts carpet but after I bought it I searched and found they used to be best for quality and fit for the a-bodies. I know they sold their carpet line to acc. This was a new old stock carpet in the box. Definite win!




  70. Looooking Goooood !
  71. Thanks for the encouragement. The part I like least about restoring a car is the sanding. I can't count how many times I have kicked myself for not getting it blasted to start with. Came down to a couple reasons not to after being so far along. One was the bottom was done and painted, as was the engine bay and didn't want to undo any of that. Other reason was that being on the rotisserie I would have to hire a flatbed to bring it to and from blasting, which would add a good chunk to blasting, and as I was as far along as I was it didn't make financial sense to do so, so here I am, plugging away, bit by bit. I'll get there, just takes more time.

    Got the inside under rear seat almost dome over the last couple evenings. Some touch ups and hand sanding still needed but decent progress. Once I do the under dash area the inside will be ready for epoxy. Yay!! Doing most of the inside cleanup with a 2" roloc sanding disc due to the tight areas and the surface rust cleanup. Want a good finished product. Also scraped off most of the seam sealer as most was separating from the floor anyway. Will reapply once its in epoxy.

    Hopefully early next week will see the inside of the car completely sanded, which includes trunk and under dash area. Then all that's left is finish one door opening, sand the other and final touch ups by hand in the tight areas the die grinder wouldn't fit, and onto primer

    Under rear seat cleanup2.jpg

    Under rear seat cleanup.jpg
  72. Good progress weekend. Got almost the entire trunk floor cleaned up. Just have to turn the car over to do the drivers trunk drop off and wheel well. Also got the rear valance and bumper area almost cleaned up as well as 3/4 of the trunk weatherstrip area. Just have a bit of hand sanding in the package tray area around the rear glass area and the rear of the car is all sanded. Hopefully soon I'll be able to get it in epoxy.

    One setback however. After the cleanup of the inner roof I noticed a slight dent in the roof panel. Compared to outside and there is a definite slight crown in one spot. Presumably when the roof got damaged it pushed excess metal into this spot creating the bulge. Will have to hit it a bit with the shrinking disc to bring it back in line with the rest of the roof. Just have to be careful not to create any oil canning. Oh, well, one step forward, one step back. I'll get there eventually. Hopefully all the time I'm spending getting it all ready shows in the quality of the final product and holds up longer than a rush job.

    trunk floor.jpg
  73. Wow ! -- Great Job ! -- A lot more ambition, and patience, than Me.
  74. Thanks. I wouldn't necessarily say ambition and patience...more like stubborn at this point...lol. It was never supposed to go this far. Was just supposed to be a quick cleanup and go though mechanical and drive and enjoy and do a teardown later. It just seems that I picked up the shovel and started digging and forgot to put the shovel down...and here we are.

    Got a little more done today. Went out to the shop for an hour today. 3 Hours later :)rolleyes:) I had the rear bumper area pretty much cleaned up, the car flipped to access the remainder of the trunk area, and unbolted the front valance to hammer out some dents. Funny thing is I found 2 different sized bolts (not from the same spots) when removing it. I guess when installing it the bolts got mixed in at the factory and they used what they grabbed as I'm pretty sure this has never been removed due to the low mileage of the car and the original paint was not broken. Couldn't remove it as I wanted as the rotisserie mounts go through the middle of it. Even used the shrinking disc a bit on the roof to take the crown out of the dent I noticed yesterday. Looks pretty good. I dare not try to go any further as I don't want to wind up with the dreaded oil can effect.

    Also surprised during the cleanup as to just how many sharp edges there are in these cars just from the expulsion from the spot welds. I've cleaned all of them up so far but some were in areas that were always exposed and where you could snag them just getting in and out of the car. But like I said, not an issue any more.

    Plan is now to work from the rear, finish all the sanding needed there and work my way forward, finishing all the die grinder, palm and hand sanding as I go, so that this time once I reach the front I will be fully ready for epoxy primer. Seems to be taking forever, but seeing good progress this weekend has refreshed my drive to get this done. Will feel great to see it all one color again, and then things speed up.

    More to come...

    Trunk floor3.jpg

    Rear Bumper area 1.jpg

    Rear Bumper area 2.jpg

    Front Valance.jpg
  75. Some very impressive work going on there.
    Like every picture.
  76. Thanks. I'm happy with the progress.

    Got some time in the shop today... As usual time got away from me and before I knew it 5 hours was gone...lol. at least my progress today reflects it. Trunk area and back of car done, along with the bottom of one of the rockers and wheel well lip. A few more days like this and will be prepping for primer finally. Can't wait.



  77. More good progress. Ordered some small paint stripping discs before Christmas, but thanks to Canada post only just got them the other day. Any way, I decided to try one out yesterday. These things are awesome!! I've used stripping discs before and they work well but always find they wear out quickly and don't get the value for the money IMO. I used 2 of these (only 2 inches diameter...bought to fit into tight spaces, cost only $1 each) and with 2 I was able to completely strip the passenger door opening and around the rear seat side window. I did use 2 small roloc sanding discs to get into the tighter corners these wouldn't reach but still super happy with the results. Also can still use the 2 stripping discs a bit on flat surfaces as there's still material left in the middle. Hoping if I can get out there tomorrow and Saturday for a bit I'll be up to the rad support/headlight area and then ready for epoxy. Finally seeing the end of this stage.

    Passenger door opening.jpg

    passenger rear side opening.jpg

    stripping disc.jpg

    used stripping disc.jpg
  78. So not much new on Dart to report. Still plugging away at paint removal. But progress is progress right? At least that's what I keep telling myself...lol.

    Used one of the stripping discs to clean up the drivers headlight bucket. It was the worst of the 2 with surface rust. The wire wheel wouldn't touch it and with the tight corners by hand would take forever, so I thought I'd give it a go. SUPER happy with how easily it cleaned up. Used one disc for the bucket and half the front valance and part of the rad support (part connecting to the headlight bucket. I did use a few 240 grit roloc discs to get into some tight corners the stripping pad couldn't reach as well.

    Also cleaned up the rest of the drivers door opening (all I have pictures so far is where I cleaned up around the vin plate area) as well as passenger firewall area (after removing old seam sealer). Came out really clean.

    Was hoping to have it ready for epoxy by the end of the week but with work and life obligations, it may be mid week next week before the shell is ready. Still have to bring the other panels for media blasting the insides but no rush on that. I can work on the body work after epoxy while waiting on them. Hopefully it'll be all one color again soon. Stay tuned...

    Also, one update from the incorrect weatherstrip I received from RockAuto. It was manufactured by metro moulded parts and when I ordered what was supposed to fit a 2 door sedan, I found it to fit a Bbody. I think they listed the dart as same as Polara. Either way, I called them to let them know of the issue (Rock Auto wasn't able to refund as I opened package before I noticed the issue...length was listed and way off...my bad for not seeing that and confirming first) they told me to send them in and they'd send me the correct ones. I never asked for a replacement, just wanted them to know of the fitment listing issue but they took care of me. The new ones came in yesterday. That's great customer service IMO. Metro moulded has a customer in me with that kind of service.

    headlight bucket 1.jpg

    headlight bucket 2.jpg

    drivers door opening cleanup.jpg
  79. Ok, so I think I'm finally done taking things off the car (besides the hood of course to get blasted). Got a few hours in the shop over the weekend and got almost the entire inside of the car ready for primer. All that's left is behind where the brake pedal assembly used to be (I got that removed just before going back in for the day.) and the drivers windshield pillar. Even cleaned up both roof braces. Never did a great job before and it was bugging me, and my OCD wouldn't let me leave it that way, so went over it again. Much happier with them now.

    Got the other headlight bucket cleaned up so all that's left up front is the rad support outer panel.

    Still have to do the bottom of the other rocker and clean the seam sealer out of the rain gutters but I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel...for this stage any way.

    Hopefully I can have the shell ready and maybe in epoxy before the end of the month. Still have to take the hood, trunk lid and doors out to have the inside media blasted but I can still work on the shell while I wait on them to come back. Actually think the plan is to finish the body work on the shell first, then move it out of the way and do the other panels before reinstall. Think I'm going to paint the interior and door jambs (hinge area) that will be difficult to reach after the doors go back on. Then I can just tape off the engine bay and interior and get the remainder of the car sprayed.

    More to come...

    front nearly done.jpg

    inside almost done 1.jpg

    inside almost done 2.jpg

    inside almost done 3.jpg

    inside almost done 4.jpg
  80. It looks vry great
  81. Wow you got that sucker clean!!!!!
  82. So, I guess I was a little premature about saying I was done taking things off the car...

    Went out today to finish the inside firewall and cowl area. Got that all cleaned up as well as the pillar and the rest of the windshield opening. Also had time to finish the other 3 wheel well opening lips. The paint stripping discs work wonders on this. Cleaned up really nice. As I was about to call it a day I decided to start cleaning out the seam sealer in the rain gutters. That's when I decided it best to pull the stainless to get better access and not damage the stainless in the process of cleaning the gutters.

    Really glad I decided to clean the seam sealer out. While it didn't look too bad, just some minor cracking, it was completely separated from the metal underneath and surface rust along the majority of the length. No pitting or anything, just powdery surface rust fortunately. Will clean up just fine.

    If I can keep going at this pace getting an hour or two each day I should be ready for epoxy by the weekend...I hope.

    I may have changed direction on the hood, trunk and doors mind you. Called around today to see about media blasting. Only place close by offered soda blasting and it was $175 per panel...a little steeper than I wanted to pay. All others only offered glass or sand blasting. This will be fine for the doors but not so much for the hood and trunk lid as it can easily warp the panels. I may get the doors done but may wet blast the hood and trunk lid myself. The water will keep the panel cool to minimize the change of warpage.
  83. Thanks for that info on the seam sealer. I wasn't sure how I was going to handle mine. Now I know it's gotta come out. Wasn't even thinking about having rust under there.
  84. I had it before on a VW bug I restored. I just use a small flat screwdriver to get under it and scrape it up. Some can be difficult to remove if it's still stuck but lots of times it just comes out easy as it's no longer attached. some areas you will need something with a bit of a hook to get under the edge of the gutter where the metal overlaps. I will try to post pictures in the next day or so.
  85. As promised. I went out today and cleaned up the drivers rain gutter. All I used was a couple flat screwdrivers to scrape it out, a drill with a wire wheel to clean up after and a die grinder with 240 grit discs to prep it and final cleanup that the wire wheel missed. Took about an hour and a half to get the drivers side this clean, maybe less.

    First picture is untouched seam sealer, second and third are the surface rust found underneath, and remainder are cleaned up and tools used

    Thing to remember is that even though the sealer looks fine it can be a mess underneath. As you can see from one of my pictures there was only a small crack in the sealer, but the surface rust underneath shows. Also this is a Nevada car. I have seen holes created under the rain gutter seam sealer in rust belt cars.

    also ran the steering column bolts in my ultrasonic cleaner to get the loose crud off them before I put the hardware in the evaporust. That way my evaporust lasts longer. Came out pretty clean for only soap and water running it at 60 degrees

    raingutter original.jpg

    raingutter 2.jpg

    raingutter before.jpg

    raingutter 1.jpg

    raingutter 3.jpg

    raingutter 4.jpg

    drivers gutter done.jpg

    raingutter tools.jpg

    firewall done.jpg
  86. Getting closer...

    Got the other drip rail stripped and cleaned and the other rocker cleaned up. Unbolted the bottom of both front fenders so I could clean up behind them as well.

    Looks like all I have left is the rad support area and the rest of the cowl vent slots, then a little hand sanding in tight corners here and there and then it's time to clean the shop, wipe everything down, and spray some epoxy primer on the shell. Doors, hood and trunk lid will be done after as I will need to move the car out of the way to set up the stands to spray them. Then I plan to spray inside the fender/door jamb area and hinge area of the doors with sealer and paint before install as I don't see getting a good angle to spray them properly when done. Not looking for perfection, just a nice complete solid color. It's going to be a driver, otherwise, fenders would be off too, mind you they are really clean underneath anyway.
  87. Finally...looks like maybe an hour of touch ups (hood hinges, cowl vents, etc) and I'm read to prime the main body. Got the rad support area all cleaned up. Even pulled the lower valance to get underneath. Can't remove it completely until I get the car back on the ground as the rotisserie mounts pass through the middle.

    pass rain gutter.jpg

    Front done 1.jpg

    front done 2.jpg
  88. Oh man I love that color green... super cool.
  89. Thanks. Took me a while to settle on the color. Funny thing is those are the first pictures that actually properly represent the color. Every light makes it look a little different. The color is a Chrysler color. It is the new version of the F8 green that came on the 2020 Challenger. I like the F8 green but wanted a little twist on it so I opted to go with the new version. Will have charcoal grey and black interior which should really go well with the green. Have a couple other "custom" touches planned, but that will get revealed later.

    Just picked up the epoxy primer and seam sealer the other day. Got lucky on the seam sealer as it was 40% off. Still super expensive at $50 a tube but worth it to have it last. Just waiting on a couple more small items to arrive to set up my make shift paint booth and then it'll be in epoxy shortly thereafter. I'm really hoping to have the car in color by early spring. Might even get her on the road this year...might... :)
  90. Made some good progress this week. Got the sanding all finished. Hung tarps around the perimeter of the car to contain primer dust. Taped up the car and applied a nice coat of epoxy primer to the shell.

    So happy to have it all one color again. Been a long time coming. Still have to finish sanding the inside of the doors, hood and trunk lid and primer them but this was a significant milestone for me. Going to do the body work on the main body, then block sand and seal it up, then I can reinstall the rear differential and get the car back on its wheels. Things should start to move a little quicker now.

    Also dropped off the radiator to be recored.










  91. That's gotta be a really good feeling. How much primer did it take?
  92. Yes, definitely feels good. Took 1/2 gallon to do this part. Still have doors and hood and trunk lid to do next
  93. Good work!
  94. Thanks for the compliments. Been a lot of work to get to this point. Got a little body work done over the weekend. Got the roof skimmed and sanded. Looks pretty good. Think I may be able to get away with high coat and a block sand or two to get it where I want it. Same with the passenger quarter. Just have to focus on the 2 c pillars to clean them up and a little on each fender. The factory body work was less than impressive to begin with. I'm not going for perfection as this will be a driver, not a show car (you wouldn't think that with the teardown I've done). It'll be pretty clean as I'm too picky of my own work to settle for less, but not near to the level I've seen on some on here. I'm definitely no professional, but I'm getting better as I go. I'm hoping to have it back on its wheels in a week or so if possible. I'd really be happy to get it on the road this year, if funds and time allows.

    Also, if I didn't say so before, I love how this Nason epoxy primer lays down. After I've finished each area with body work I've mixed up a small batch and sprayed away. Using a cheap husky spray gun and still goes on great. Only ever did one primer coat before and that was many many years ago. Still debating on trying my hand at putting color on the interior myself. Doesn't have to be perfect and would save me on final paint.




  95. Oh yeah, from what I see you're definitely gonna shoot the interior coat yourself. Lol. Then you can decide if you are capable of tackling the rest of it.
  96. Definitely won't be doing the main body, I don't have the proper setup for that. Would need a good exhaust setup so I don't wind up with overspray everywhere that I would have to spend forever wet sanding out and buffing to get to look nice. Inside isn't as important as most of it will wind up covered anyway.

    Just picked up the 2k primer and a can of guide coat today. Once I get the remainder of the body basically finished I can hand block the car to fine tune the finish and take care of any highs or lows.
  97. Got some good progress over the last few days. Pretty much got the back half of the car ready for high build primer. Just have one fender to finish. Used the evercoat metal glaze ultra for the finish work. I have to say it's worth the money. Sands really nice and goes on super smooth.

    Block sanded the car and it came out really good. Hoping to finish the front fender then one more coat of epoxy. Then high build and block sand a couple times and sealer.






  98. A little closer again... Still not getting the time I want at it but moving forward is good right? Got the front fender done and most of the car block sanded to hot with epoxy again to seal it all up before hitting it with 2K. Also did some more finish work around the rear glass opening. Hoping I can get it nice and smooth. It was a bit wavy after all the hammer and dolly work getting it back in shape when the replacement brave was welded back in. I'm probably too picky for my own good. This is only supposed to be a driver after all.

    Got my replacement signal switch assembly thanks to slantsixdan.

    Also picked up my newly record rad. I was lucky enough to find an old school shop local that still does this. They've been doing it for over 30 years (same company and same workers ) and the workmanship shows it. As slant six rads are difficult to find this was my best option. Still a 2 core but has the new higher efficiency core so should cool even better, and I wanted to keep the original look.


  99. keep up the good work- you doing an amazing job! can't wait to see more progress pics.
  100. Thanks. Getting there slowly but surely.

    Got most of the block sanding done. Just finishing up touch ups around the tail lights and trunk opening. Then a little more hand standing in the tight spots, then a good cleaning and ready for next coat of epoxy followed by 2 K high build the next day.

    Scored a couple NOS emblems for the pillars as well. Did a test fit on the panel I had to straighten. Fits great and should really pop against the green paint